quite a few people use that foam under above ground pools. Not sure how it would do with an in ground pool. Might be worth a try keeping in mind it might not work out.
DIY inground pool kit
- Thread starter johnm160
- Start date
I am not sure how much of a difference it would be, the water pressure on it is what it is. I am only 5'8" at the hopper which is not that big. I just figured it would give a smoother appearance that leaving it as sand. I could probably do a hybrid version also. Foam under the shallow end and leave the sloped deep end as sand. That way you do not see the imperfections in the shallow, deep end probably would not show anyway
edit to add: another thought is if I decide to change the bottom configuration at some point this would make it easier.
edit to add: another thought is if I decide to change the bottom configuration at some point this would make it easier.
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Looking back at the photos in the first post, what would be your recommended locations for the 3 returns coming into the pool? They were not predefined I need to cut them in.
Be careful using native material for backfill. You would have to compact that to be sure it wont settle and you cant inside the steel forms. I would only use stone on anything you replace. Your taking a gamble there. Depending on which return style you have some need a star pattern to hold face on the wall to be tightened. We cut the pattern with an angle grinder and snips. If you have hayward/cmp style you need that pattern just trace it
Foam isnt used because it's in ground. Above ground will never float or rarely shift it's on grade. Below ground isnt the place for it. It wouldnt it flat anyway you would see the seams and imperfections under the lights. You can do masons mix and screed it in sections. If you have no groundwater screed rail the whole thing and do in sections
Foam isnt used because it's in ground. Above ground will never float or rarely shift it's on grade. Below ground isnt the place for it. It wouldnt it flat anyway you would see the seams and imperfections under the lights. You can do masons mix and screed it in sections. If you have no groundwater screed rail the whole thing and do in sections
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I have been wetting and tamping to keep everything compact and will continue to do so throughout the week I will think about the info you provided on the foam. Haywood returns. Just a 3” hole through the wall.
Jimmythegreek, thanks for the nudge in the right direction. I am not good with concrete work and was looking for an easier way out. I made some calls this morning and I am subbing out the pool krete base install. I already had the product delivered with the pool kit so it is on hand.
You are better off just get it over with and then it's good for many liner swaps. Take a look on the backside of the fittings. If it has a star shaped design that's what's meant to hold the face while you tighten the backing nut. If they are threaded on the backside to receive a Male adapter, as many are, you need the star cutout so when you tighten it doesnt spin in the wall. The glue backs dont have this just check so you dont have an uh oh moment later
I see what you're talking about, funny the directions in the packet just say to use a hole saw. I have 10 of these to put in 
3 returns, 4 spa jets at the steps, and 3 colorlogic lights
3 returns, 4 spa jets at the steps, and 3 colorlogic lightsyou can also cheat on some models and put the male adapters on first then attach the face plate. problem is you need big channel locks and the fittings break kinda easily. also need to be careful if you use pipe dope that it doesnt eat the pvc, some crazy brands have solvents in them. I tape them with teflon and use white pipe dope thats pvc approved. when you get panels that are pre punched for the return fittings they have the star pattern punched out with a metal press. try your luck with one that you have in a piece of tin or something similar and see if you can make it work with a hole saw. When you do enough of them you can zip them out in 2 minutes with an angle grinder and snips
Walls are polymer so cutting should be easy. Maybe cut a smaller hole then grind out the star. I have huge channel locks but yeah I am afraid to break them. So you are using Teflon tape and pipe dope?
Be careful tightening. Pipe dope gives a false sense how tight or not it is.
Yes on polymer a dremel works easily. Dope makes the fitting slip easier then all of a sudden it snaps. I forget the name of stuff I use its special pool stuff for PVC threads. The wide teflon tape works fine you can use a tiny bit of pure teflon dope to skim the threads just get them firm a d snug not gorilla tight
Got to know thanks. Hey spring valley ny. I grew up there. Going to be there for s day next week handling some things for moms estate.
Make sure to be out there off and on just in case they have any ideas or concerns. A cooler full of water and such will go a long way to great service as well!
Kim
Kim
It’s a concrete truck a pump trailer my nephew and me and the pump operator. Most of it is just the bond beam around the outside so no finish work there.Make sure to be out there off and on just in case they have any ideas or concerns. A cooler full of water and such will go a long way to great service as well!
Kim
LOL then I guess you are all set then!! SWEET to have help like that!
Line pump is the way to go. If you have a deep end hopper form it and pour that in concrete while hes there. Do you pad too. That's how I do them
So it seems the concrete calculator form the concrete company seems to be geared to selling you more concrete than you need. Had about 3.5 yards left over so we went back around the base of the pool again. Then with what was still left we filled up most of the enormous hole behind the steel steps since I did not have to worry about the pressure bowing that.
Today I started plumbing the pool up to the edge if the over dig area. Skimmers and returns are complete to that point. I tore the teeth off the hole saw on the first step jet, seems it did not like the steel. Three more to go so that should be fun. Main drain plumbing will be after that. I did not get to pour the pad at the bottom of the hopper. Home Depot sent my nephew back with the wrong fittings twice despite the screen shots of the fittings I needed. Oh well.
