You can always mix stone in with the sand to stabilize it or bring in some fill dirt. Looks like the whole pool is kinda high in the pics. Did they shoot grade before they started? Wasnt your job the pool that caved in and this was a replacement? Give is some more pics of total area
Design help
- Thread starter M3power
- Start date
Yeah they shoot grade before they started and went off the. All the fill they putting is a gravel sand mix. Their is a slope wasn’t so noticeable but once the L pool was put in it’s a big difference.
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How wide is paver deck on the slope side? The rest doeant look bad at all grade wise, better to be a tad high anyway. I would just build it up and then slope it away as gradual as possible. If the access isnt bad a small wall van be added later. If your boxed in you might wanna juat do it now would be cheaper no mess to fix when done
It is always difficult to get a good feel for the elevation changes looking at pics. It sure looks like you will want a retaining wall on the shed side. You could most likely make it work by sloping but it might come out not looking so good. Have whoever is placing the fill give you some proposed finish grade elevations on a few stakes where the outside corners of the patio will be. Then run a few strings down to existing finish grade to see how things will look. That area by the shed looks like it might be a bit tight, so you will most likely want the retaining wall right up against the patio which will be cheaper and easier to build an install before the patio is installed. It would be well worth your time to figure out now how to handle the grading in that area before the patio goes in.
I got ya! One thing I would like you to do as soon as you see this post is fill in your signature. It is so helpful to be able to just glance down at the bottom of a post and see the kind of pool and equipment. Go to your user name at the top of the page. Click on your name and a box should drop down with signature in it.
info for signature wanted-Kind of pool-in ground vinyl, size in gallons, kind of filter (sand, cartridge, DE), any special features. what test kit you use.
Now on to your levels:
What is the cl one? I am guessing it is the drop chlorine test. If it is don't both doing that one. It is more a "is there chlorine in the pool" kind fo test. The powder test is much better.
Your pH is high with your TA. ph and TA are buddies. They work hand in hand. I have a link for you to help you handle this two.
www.troublefreepool.com
Know your pH might be higher that 8.2. you will need to work on it over a course of time to get it down into the 7s. Once you get your pH into the 7s you can really start work on the the TA.
Your CYA is a little low. I would push it up to around 30.
Your FC is low. You need to get it up and keep it up to match your CYA as seen in this chart:
www.troublefreepool.com
I would shoot for just over the target for a little while just in case that CC of 1 is true.
How does the water look? Is it clear as can be?
Kim
info for signature wanted-Kind of pool-in ground vinyl, size in gallons, kind of filter (sand, cartridge, DE), any special features. what test kit you use.
Now on to your levels:
What is the cl one? I am guessing it is the drop chlorine test. If it is don't both doing that one. It is more a "is there chlorine in the pool" kind fo test. The powder test is much better.
Your pH is high with your TA. ph and TA are buddies. They work hand in hand. I have a link for you to help you handle this two.
Lower Total Alkalinity
A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.
www.troublefreepool.com
Know your pH might be higher that 8.2. you will need to work on it over a course of time to get it down into the 7s. Once you get your pH into the 7s you can really start work on the the TA.
Your CYA is a little low. I would push it up to around 30.
Your FC is low. You need to get it up and keep it up to match your CYA as seen in this chart:
The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship
Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
www.troublefreepool.com
I would shoot for just over the target for a little while just in case that CC of 1 is true.
How does the water look? Is it clear as can be?
Kim
Yes water is super clear and sparkling. I update my signature hope I could control this before closing the pool.
Good job on the signature!
We will get things all in line before your close her up for the winter. Use the link I posted to get that TA and pH down. Know it might be quite a battle in the beginning as that pH could be higher than we think. You can dose the pH with the pump on high. Wait about 15 and test again. Keep testing and dosing until you see your pH in the 7s. Once you hit the 7s then get it down to 7.2 THEN push it backup to 8.0 by rolling the water good. You can turn your returns up so the roll the water good. Throw the kids in the water and tell them to have a cannon ball contest!
Kim
We will get things all in line before your close her up for the winter. Use the link I posted to get that TA and pH down. Know it might be quite a battle in the beginning as that pH could be higher than we think. You can dose the pH with the pump on high. Wait about 15 and test again. Keep testing and dosing until you see your pH in the 7s. Once you hit the 7s then get it down to 7.2 THEN push it backup to 8.0 by rolling the water good. You can turn your returns up so the roll the water good. Throw the kids in the water and tell them to have a cannon ball contest!
Kim
There are two strengths of muriatic acid-31.5% and one lower than that (not sure it's %). The 31.5% is kept outside by the pool stuff in a box with two jugs in it. The lower strength stuff is the SAME PRICE for the same amount. It is kept by the paints and such.
Some pool stores also carry it in refillable jugs.
Some pool stores also carry it in refillable jugs.
Ok I found a store close by had the 31.5% gallon for $7. Going to get a box of 4 it could get for $6.50. Will start tomorrow to work on lowering. Thank you for the help
Make sure you have a well vented place for that stuff to go. It CANNOT go by chlorine or metal. Chlorine + muraitic acid=NASTY cloud of fumes that could be deadly. Muraitic acid's fumes can rust metal. I keep mine in a vent 5 gal bucket behind the barn where no critters go. Heat or sun does not matter to it.
I would only get 2 jugs to start with. The process will be fast once you get it in to the 7s the first time.
I would only get 2 jugs to start with. The process will be fast once you get it in to the 7s the first time.
TA is now 110 PH 7.5 should try to lower TA any more? CYA is at 20 got liquid stabilizer will put in tomorrow. And recheck.
My goal for your TA is to get it to 90 and we will start working on your pH with it there.
TA is now at 90 PH is 7.5 CYA 40. What would I be needing for winter closing. Pool company will do the first one but I got to buy what ever chemicals needed. Thanks in advance
The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool See if this thread helps. If not let me know and I will do another search for you.
The only thing that stands out to me is the cc of 1.5. The says there might be a little something in the water. What I would do is get some liquid chlorine and push the FC up to SLAM level for your CYA as seen here: FC/CYA Levels until there is no more than .5 for the cc
Kim
Kim
Good morning Kim and just wanted to say thank you for all the help from and other member on getting me through my first pool season. Pool is winterized and close till next year.