Putting a down payment for the pool this Thursday and going to pick colors and sign documents. Wondering if I should change anything on the design or specifics. Thanks! See pics for details. Doing travertine. We live in SW Florida. Was also wondering electric heat or solar. We are going with the mini pebbles and hoping they are smooth enough. Thanks!
Deposit for Pool this Thurs need advice
- Thread starter Cohenaud
- Start date
C,
I don't see anything that stands out except you are signing a contract with no part number..
So a Cartridge filter could be any size, the EasyTouch could be a cheapo "Lite" version or a full up version, etc.. Without actual P/N's you are just buying blind,,
I suspect things will be ok, but how do you know for sure..
Thanks,
Jim R.
I don't see anything that stands out except you are signing a contract with no part number..
So a Cartridge filter could be any size, the EasyTouch could be a cheapo "Lite" version or a full up version, etc.. Without actual P/N's you are just buying blind,,
I suspect things will be ok, but how do you know for sure..
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,441
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is the 3’X5’ depth water depth or pool depth from bond beam? You may be getting a 2.5’x4.5’ water depth pool. Have them guarantee minimum water depth. We have had folks end up with shallower pools then expected.
3’ is too shallow a pool and too shallow to swim in. Consider 3.5’ minimum depth.
Globrite lights use a proprietary niche and don’t last long. You will be replacing expensive lights every few years with no better alternative. Consider Microbrite nicheless lights instead.
www.troublefreepool.com
@kimkats may have some comments.
3’ is too shallow a pool and too shallow to swim in. Consider 3.5’ minimum depth.
Globrite lights use a proprietary niche and don’t last long. You will be replacing expensive lights every few years with no better alternative. Consider Microbrite nicheless lights instead.
Pentair LED Pool Lights - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
@kimkats may have some comments.
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With a wedge bottom check with PB on actual depths. If that's the shell size you will be shallower by a few inches with normal water. I'm not a fan of anything less that 3.5ft in shallow end
Use micronrites instead of globrites
Use micronrites instead of globrites
Thank you! Good article reference thanks.
I will ask for changes.
I will ask for changes.
Is the 3’X5’ depth water depth or pool depth from bond beam? You may be getting a 2.5’x4.5’ water depth pool. Have them guarantee minimum water depth. We have had folks end up with shallower pools then expected.
3’ is too shallow a pool and too shallow to swim in. Consider 3.5’ minimum depth.
Globrite lights use a proprietary niche and don’t last long. You will be replacing expensive lights every few years with no better alternative. Consider Microbrite nicheless lights instead.
Pentair LED Pool Lights - Further Reading
@kimkats may have some comments.
On the heat, it depends on how you want to use the pool. My opinion is this...
Solar - more convenient, cheaper, not as reliable as a heat pump. If you want to use the pool on the weekends for instance, if you have cloudy or cool weather, you may not have a warm pool on Saturday when you want to use it. My inlaws live near Port Charlotte and have solar plus a solar blanket. I think they can keep their pool comfortable for most of the year. The blanket really helps to avoid losing heat if you're willing to deal with it. They actually like to keep their pool around 90 and I think they can do that pretty regularly.
Heat pump - again, the blanket will help and honestly, you could leave it on full time with a blanket and the cost wouldn't be awful. I personally do not like the blankets though, so for me the heat pump allows for you to heat the pool when you want to swim. If air temps are in the upper 70s+, you won't have any issues heating the pool. May take 12 hours or so depending on temps, so you will have to plan ahead when you want to use it. But, if you want to swim on a random Tuesday without pre-planning, you will likely not be able to do it out of season.
You will have to decide how you want to use the pool. I will have a spa, so I need a true heat source. I think if I were building without the spa, I would attempt to just do solar first, and add the heat pump later if necessary... in that case, it's imperative that you have the PB run a large enough electric service so that the heater can be added later.
Solar - more convenient, cheaper, not as reliable as a heat pump. If you want to use the pool on the weekends for instance, if you have cloudy or cool weather, you may not have a warm pool on Saturday when you want to use it. My inlaws live near Port Charlotte and have solar plus a solar blanket. I think they can keep their pool comfortable for most of the year. The blanket really helps to avoid losing heat if you're willing to deal with it. They actually like to keep their pool around 90 and I think they can do that pretty regularly.
Heat pump - again, the blanket will help and honestly, you could leave it on full time with a blanket and the cost wouldn't be awful. I personally do not like the blankets though, so for me the heat pump allows for you to heat the pool when you want to swim. If air temps are in the upper 70s+, you won't have any issues heating the pool. May take 12 hours or so depending on temps, so you will have to plan ahead when you want to use it. But, if you want to swim on a random Tuesday without pre-planning, you will likely not be able to do it out of season.
You will have to decide how you want to use the pool. I will have a spa, so I need a true heat source. I think if I were building without the spa, I would attempt to just do solar first, and add the heat pump later if necessary... in that case, it's imperative that you have the PB run a large enough electric service so that the heater can be added later.
I have two young kids. Who will likely want to jump in randomly when they want to after school. So maybe from what I am hearing is the solar could be better?
The PB said he doesn’t recommend the colored decorative tile strip I see in so many pools for us . I have always liked the look. Can you give me positives or negatives for that line. He said it was a bit more pricey with it. Thanks pic of what I mean and a pic of the pool we are designing. Thanks.
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,441
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What did your PB suggest as an alternative?
Steps having a contrasting tile strip are both decorative and a safety feature. It helps people see where the step edges are. Many people may not be wearing their glasses or seeing clearly when using the steps.
The glass tiles are a bit more expensive then porcelain tiles but you have a small amount of them. Laying those tiles before plastering is not a big effort.
If you plan on living in that house a few years I'd suggest the pool water depth be 4'-6' at least. Kids grow. The small ones hang on the stairs till they learn to float around using noodles or arm floaties.
A more shallow pool gets hot and swampy in the summer. A deeper area holds cooler water.
Kids LIKE to dive, cannon ball, etc and you can't do that in a 6' depth safely. Have you considered going deeper like 7' at least??
Maddie
A more shallow pool gets hot and swampy in the summer. A deeper area holds cooler water.
Kids LIKE to dive, cannon ball, etc and you can't do that in a 6' depth safely. Have you considered going deeper like 7' at least??
Maddie
Our pool is next to our preserve behind the house and in SW Florida they said we can’t go beyond 6 feet at our house. I think we can get them to change it to 6 feet of course with extra cost. I think the idea is good too regarding the water temp. Also like the idea of the tiles for seeing better.If you plan on living in that house a few years I'd suggest the pool water depth be 4'-6' at least. Kids grow. The small ones hang on the stairs till they learn to float around using noodles or arm floaties.
A more shallow pool gets hot and swampy in the summer. A deeper area holds cooler water.
Kids LIKE to dive, cannon ball, etc and you can't do that in a 6' depth safely. Have you considered going deeper like 7' at least??
Maddie
I agree it would be better for seeing where the steps are. Especially for the older people who may use it and not know my pool well. Can’t believe it’s so expensive for a few extra tiles. Wish we could do it ourselves.
your coping says brick or travertine. if you're going travertine what size? your drawing appears to be a 12x24 but I didn't see it listed.
I'd put at least two bubblers on my sun ledge. three would match your other bubblers perfectly. make sure it's the depth you want it to be. are you putting in an umbrella holder on the sun ledge?
one thing you might consider now or in the future is a heat pump/chiller. you'd be surprised how well that chiller feels on those hot August days in FL.
i agree with marking the steps. you don't have to go with a full strip. if you look up my pool build we just used a 1x1 to mark the steps. not sure what tile you are going with on your waterline. it doesn't have to be the same tile as the waterline tile. a simple glass tile close in color would work.
nice looking pool.
I'd put at least two bubblers on my sun ledge. three would match your other bubblers perfectly. make sure it's the depth you want it to be. are you putting in an umbrella holder on the sun ledge?
one thing you might consider now or in the future is a heat pump/chiller. you'd be surprised how well that chiller feels on those hot August days in FL.
i agree with marking the steps. you don't have to go with a full strip. if you look up my pool build we just used a 1x1 to mark the steps. not sure what tile you are going with on your waterline. it doesn't have to be the same tile as the waterline tile. a simple glass tile close in color would work.
nice looking pool.