DE Filter - High Pressure in Filter and low flow and CLEAN filter grids

[thatjorge]

Good day everyone!

I recently got a house with a pool in Phoenix, AZ. When I got the house, it took me a month to move from Texas, so I got a Pool guy to clean the pool while I was away, who ended up letting the pool turn green. The guy installed new DE Filter grids since the filters had some holes and broken ribs and he gave up after a couple of days when the pool was really green due there was a lot of debris and algae and it required someone to backwash and take care of the pool closely.

When I started taking care of the pool the PSI was quite high ~30 PSI, I think the circulation of water (suction/return) was just fine. I needed to clean up constantly the filter since there was too much algae, and that I thought that algae and debris got the pressure of the DE Filter that high.

That same week, after I had shocked and cleaned my pool, which got it to a cloudy level without that greenish color, on the day 4 I believe, the flow just decreased significantly to the point that there was barely water returning to the pool. I got a pool cleaning company to come look at my pool, and they basically cleaned up the DE Filter grids again, and the pressure went again down to around 8 PSI, but after a couple of hours it went back to ~30 PSI again.

They recommended me to remove the DE filter grids which I did and the pressure stays at 8 PSI steady, it is just when I put the DE Filter grids back that the pressure goes back up to ~30 PSI. The filters have the DE powder and it has the right amount for the sq ft coverage. And the filter grids are not green like before when I just got rid of the algae and debris.

All the basics have been looked at (clean up filter grids, skimmer baskets, leaks, clogged impeller, DE powder, etc) and now that company seem to be stuck as well, and they recommend to install a Cartridge filter but I am afraid that that might not be the right thing to do.

Any recommendation?

At this point we ran out of ideas and I don't know what causes the high pressure which kills the flow of my pool. Like I said, the filter grids are a month old and the brand seem to be decent (Pleatco)

 

[Texas Splash]

jorge, welcome to TFP! You still have algae, that's why your filter is clogging so fast and water pressure at the returns slowing down to nothing. By using a proper test it, either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C, you need to follow the SLAM Process "completely" to kill & remove algae. It works!

Also be sure to visit our Pool Care Basics page for lots of additional info. Enjoy the forum.

 

[1poolman1]

Good day everyone!

I recently got a house with a pool in Phoenix, AZ. When I got the house, it took me a month to move from Texas, so I got a Pool guy to clean the pool while I was away, who ended up letting the pool turn green. The guy installed new DE Filter grids since the filters had some holes and broken ribs and he gave up after a couple of days when the pool was really green due there was a lot of debris and algae and it required someone to backwash and take care of the pool closely.

When I started taking care of the pool the PSI was quite high ~30 PSI, I think the circulation of water (suction/return) was just fine. I needed to clean up constantly the filter since there was too much algae, and that I thought that algae and debris got the pressure of the DE Filter that high.

That same week, after I had shocked and cleaned my pool, which got it to a cloudy level without that greenish color, on the day 4 I believe, the flow just decreased significantly to the point that there was barely water returning to the pool. I got a pool cleaning company to come look at my pool, and they basically cleaned up the DE Filter grids again, and the pressure went again down to around 8 PSI, but after a couple of hours it went back to ~30 PSI again.

They recommended me to remove the DE filter grids which I did and the pressure stays at 8 PSI steady, it is just when I put the DE Filter grids back that the pressure goes back up to ~30 PSI. The filters have the DE powder and it has the right amount for the sq ft coverage. And the filter grids are not green like before when I just got rid of the algae and debris.

All the basics have been looked at (clean up filter grids, skimmer baskets, leaks, clogged impeller, DE powder, etc) and now that company seem to be stuck as well, and they recommend to install a Cartridge filter but I am afraid that that might not be the right thing to do.

Any recommendation?

At this point we ran out of ideas and I don't know what causes the high pressure which kills the flow of my pool. Like I said, the filter grids are a month old and the brand seem to be decent (Pleatco)

Those grids are completely collapsed/ruined and need to be replaced. Thirty psi on the grids of what appears to be a 72sq. ft. DE filter (maybe 60?) does just what you see. You would be very happy with a large (400sq. ft.+) cartridge filter, especially if you can get a VSP to go with it. It may seem like a lot to spend when you just moved, but it will be an investment that will pay for itself in time.

 

[thatjorge]

Those grids are completely collapsed/ruined and need to be replaced. Thirty psi on the grids of what appears to be a 72sq. ft. DE filter (maybe 60?) does just what you see. You would be very happy with a large (400sq. ft.+) cartridge filter, especially if you can get a VSP to go with it. It may seem like a lot to spend when you just moved, but it will be an investment that will pay for itself in time.

Hi,

The DE Filter is a Hayward 4820 (48sq ft) and the filters are a month old, the new pool company that came over mentioned that some grids have a broken rib at a corner but that they can handle the load until I see the DE powder coming back to the pool. Also, I am not sure of replacing them now if I should change the whole filter to a Cartridge filter.

 

[thatjorge]

jorge, welcome to TFP! You still have algae, that's why your filter is clogging so fast and water pressure at the returns slowing down to nothing. By using a proper test it, either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C, you need to follow the SLAM Process "completely" to kill & remove algae. It works!

Also be sure to visit our Pool Care Basics page for lots of additional info. Enjoy the forum.

Hey, thanks so much for your quick response.

This is the current state of the pool, do you think that it is algae just not visible to human eyes? what is at the bottom is some leafs and it is rainy today in the Phoenix area.

 

[Texas Splash]

do you think that it is algae just not visible to human eyes?

It is. That cloudiness is the algae. It's not always just a green swamp. So you need to follow the SLAM Process. Once you complete the SLAM and pass all 3 SLAM criteria on that link, your water will look better than ever and there will be MUCH less stress on your filter.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi,

The DE Filter is a Hayward 4820 (48sq ft) and the filters are a month old, the new pool company that came over mentioned that some grids have a broken rib at a corner but that they can handle the load until I see the DE powder coming back to the pool. Also, I am not sure of replacing them now if I should change the whole filter to a Cartridge filter.

Regardless of size (hard to tell from a picture), those grids are shot and will continue to get worse. In my experience, your pool will not filter properly. When I was actively servicing pools, I would only reinstall something like that until I could replace the grids to maintain circulation or, if the customer wouldn't do it, quit the account. I would not be able to maintain a pool with a filter in that condition. When I was early in my business, I would try to nurse a pool along with a filter in that condition. You learn quickly that it doesn't work.
How large is your pump? It looks like it may be too large to have damaged the grids in a month.
Regarding your second post, above, if you put a large amount of chlorine in the pool to kill the algae, it turns white (bleached) and has to be removed by filtration. So, likely, yes, that is dead algae. When an algae bloom starts, it is white until it develops chlorophyll and turns green.

 

[jesse-99]

FWIW, I switched from a DE filter to Cartridge, mainly because I found the DE filter and grid system way too hard to maintain myself. Very happy with the cartridge filter (I went wiht a Sta-Rite System7 400sq foot filter) as it much easier for everyday Joe's (like me) to clean and maintain. (if you end up getting one everyone, get the biggest size you can afford/fit) and get a Filter Flosser from Amazon to help clean it. (though yes, you still need to SLAM as others said)

 

[thatjorge]

Regardless of size (hard to tell from a picture), those grids are shot and will continue to get worse. In my experience, your pool will not filter properly. When I was actively servicing pools, I would only reinstall something like that until I could replace the grids to maintain circulation or, if the customer wouldn't do it, quit the account. I would not be able to maintain a pool with a filter in that condition. When I was early in my business, I would try to nurse a pool along with a filter in that condition. You learn quickly that it doesn't work.
How large is your pump? It looks like it may be too large to have damaged the grids in a month.
Regarding your second post, above, if you put a large amount of chlorine in the pool to kill the algae, it turns white (bleached) and has to be removed by filtration. So, likely, yes, that is dead algae. When an algae bloom starts, it is white until it develops chlorophyll and turns green.

It's a variable speed pump with a 1.5 HP.

I noticed when I brush the pool that it has some white powder, is it the dead algae? and would the recommendation be to keep cleaning the filter and running the pump until it gets cleaned completely?

 

[1poolman1]

It's a variable speed pump with a 1.5 HP.

I noticed when I brush the pool that it has some white powder, is it the dead algae? and would the recommendation be to keep cleaning the filter and running the pump until it gets cleaned completely?

Hayward Super 2 with a replacement US Motors (now Nidec) variable-speed motor. What you are brushing is, most likely dead algae. It is very light and should be vacuumed into the filter or let the cleaner do it for you. You will need to clean the filter often.

 

[thatjorge]

Hayward Super 2 with a replacement US Motors (now Nidec) variable-speed motor. What you are brushing is, most likely dead algae. It is very light and should be vacuumed into the filter or let the cleaner do it for you. You will need to clean the filter often.

Ok, that makes sense.

Will follow that instruction and above recommendation for SLAMing.

The pump is operated with an Echotech EZ system, may be a hard question and for new post, but I haven't been able to run it 24x7 (it runs from 6AM-12AM), I have to wake up two times at night to get it started, and it runs in a Custom Flow for 120 minutes max, any idea how to change that?

 

[1poolman1]

Here is the operating manual for your motor, see page 21:

 

[thatjorge]

Here is the operating manual for your motor, see page 21:

Thank you, I will give it a try and post later the results with before/after pics. I think it may take 2-3 days if I am not mistaken.

 

[thatjorge]

I just noticed yesterday that this connection in the filter for the return has a leak. Do you think this is contributing to the overall flow slowdown?\

As an additional note, after cleaning all the filter grids and adding the DE powder, after 30 mins the pressure started going up slowly and I have had to backwash three times so the flow gets improved.
I am planning to clean the filter once a day until the SLAM process is completed.

 

[Texas Splash]

The filter will clog-up quickly as it captures algae. That's just of the downsides of a DE filter, having to babysit it more often. But stick with the SLAM Process, it works if you follow all the notes on that page. As for the small leak, it won't effect the SLAM or your slow water pressure. You can fix that after the SLAM is complete.

 

[thatjorge]

The filter will clog-up quickly as it captures algae. That's just of the downsides of a DE filter, having to babysit it more often. But stick with the SLAM Process, it works if you follow all the notes on that page. As for the small leak, it won't effect the SLAM or your slow water pressure. You can fix that after the SLAM is complete.

Hi there,

I was able to keep the filter running at 10 PSIs since last week, it has been steady for a week, so I think that algae is already gone, the water look clear and the ph, alkalinity, etc is now balanced.

However, what I haven't been able to get rid of is some stains/brown spots at the bottom, I have brushed the pool consistently and that doesn't help, that white powder is not longer at the bottom either, I was reading about it and one of the suggestions I see is to get drain and acid wash the pool.
Would you agree?

If it is not algae (which I think is not) and if it is better to post a new thread let me know please.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi there,

I was able to keep the filter running at 10 PSIs since last week, it has been steady for a week, so I think that algae is already gone, the water look clear and the ph, alkalinity, etc is now balanced.

However, what I haven't been able to get rid of is some stains/brown spots at the bottom, I have brushed the pool consistently and that doesn't help, that white powder is not longer at the bottom either, I was reading about it and one of the suggestions I see is to get drain and acid wash the pool.
Would you agree?

If it is not algae (which I think is not) and if it is better to post a new thread let me know please.

That may be an organic stain. If you can, get a pound or two of calcium hypochlorite (commonly packaged in one-pound bags as "shock"). Sprinkle it over the dark spots and let it sit. If the stains are organic (from algae, etc.) they should be bleached clean. If not, all you've done is add a bit more chlorine and not enough calcium to make a difference.

 

[thatjorge]

That may be an organic stain. If you can, get a pound or two of calcium hypochlorite (commonly packaged in one-pound bags as "shock"). Sprinkle it over the dark spots and let it sit. If the stains are organic (from algae, etc.) they should be bleached clean. If not, all you've done is add a bit more chlorine and not enough calcium to make a difference.

I will try this tonight, if it isn't then would you say it is necessary to drain and acid wash?

 

[Texas Splash]

if it isn't then would you say it is necessary to drain and acid wash?

An acid wash has it's place for sure, but of course it takes a little bit of life out of the remaining plaster. But that may be a reasonable course of action if the staining is from calcium or organic material trapped within scale.

Just to be sure about your SLAM Process, you made sure you passed all 3 SLAM criteria correct?