Dad, can we swim yet?

hankering2swim

Active member
Jul 6, 2019
36
Indiana
Just got an intex pool and set it up 2 days ago. Filled the pool with water straight from well. This left us with very brown water. Took the water to the pool store yesterday (before finding TFP). They tested the water and said Good PH, No Chlor, AlK-28, NO ST. They sold me 2 bottles of liquid chlorine to shock it and some metal magic. I was told to add 10 oz metal magic yesterday, 1 gal chlorine today, 10 oz metal magic tomorrow, and on Monday 1 more gal of chlorine. After reading some posts and searching this forum I am guessing that is wrong. I tested Chlorine and it is @ or above 5 (test only goes to 5) and PH didn't really match any on the page just stayed red. Please help me get this pool to where the kids can swim! Thanks in advance
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
23,594
Laughlin, NV
You need some CYA. It is called Cyanuric Acid or stabilizer, or conditioner. You can get it at Walmart, Home Depot,etc.
Use PoolMath and add enough CYA to add 30 ppm to your pool.

Then maintain FC of 3 ppm (minimum) in the pool.
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

What does the Baleco test kit test for?
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,779
Houston, Texas
Hi, welcome to TFP! So water straight from the well was brown before adding any chlorine, correct? If so, then you have a lot of sediment in the water that is going to need to filter out. If it turned brown after adding chlorine, then you have a high iron content and you will need to filter out the rust.
If you added a gallon of chlorine today, then your pH will read very high. It will come down as the chlorine level drops. Do you know the concentration of chlorine you added? It is usually 10 or 12%. That would have raised the FC to 16-19 ppm.
 

hankering2swim

Active member
Jul 6, 2019
36
Indiana
You need some CYA. It is called Cyanuric Acid or stabilizer, or conditioner. You can get it at Walmart, Home Depot,etc.
Use PoolMath and add enough CYA to add 30 ppm to your pool.

Then maintain FC of 3 ppm (minimum) in the pool.
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

What does the Baleco test kit test for?
It test for Chlorine and PH.
 

hankering2swim

Active member
Jul 6, 2019
36
Indiana
Hi, welcome to TFP! So water straight from the well was brown before adding any chlorine, correct? If so, then you have a lot of sediment in the water that is going to need to filter out. If it turned brown after adding chlorine, then you have a high iron content and you will need to filter out the rust.
If you added a gallon of chlorine today, then your pH will read very high. It will come down as the chlorine level drops. Do you know the concentration of chlorine you added? It is usually 10 or 12%. That would have raised the FC to 16-19 ppm.
Yes it was brown even before I added the chlorine which is vertex concentrate pool shock. Sodium hypochlorite 10%.
 

hankering2swim

Active member
Jul 6, 2019
36
Indiana
You need some CYA. It is called Cyanuric Acid or stabilizer, or conditioner. You can get it at Walmart, Home Depot,etc.
Use PoolMath and add enough CYA to add 30 ppm to your pool.

Then maintain FC of 3 ppm (minimum) in the pool.
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

What does the Baleco test kit test for?
I am going to purchase a better kit than the Baleco. It was given to us with the pool. Should I follow the recommendation of the pool store and still add more metal magic and a gallon of shock along with the CYA? What should I use for Chlorine? I have read several post where people are using bleach.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
23,594
Laughlin, NV
Liquid chlorine / plain bleach. Same thing. No scents, splashless, cloromax, etc.

I have no idea on the metal magic. Your answer to Zea sounds like it was dirt, not metal.
 

hankering2swim

Active member
Jul 6, 2019
36
Indiana
I started using the bucket with poly-fill method that I have seen on this site which I forgot to mention. Maybe tomorrow we will notice a difference. I have been changing the filter several times throughout the day and each time they have a lot of what looks to be iron or rust.
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,779
Houston, Texas
I would hold off on metal magic for now. You have enough chlorine in there to kill any algae that may have been present. What you need is to filter out the dirt. The filter that came with the pool will be slow clearing it all up. A larger filter and pump would clear things up much quicker. You can try taking the cartridge out and loosely filling the filter with polyester pillow stuffing to see if it will capture more of the dirt. Adding a slime bag to the end of the return hose will also capture more dirt.
 

Dave31410

Bronze Supporter
Feb 27, 2018
124
Savannah, GA
The only way to filter iron from a well is with an iron filter that uses a reactive agent such as manganese dioxide or Birm. These are catalysts that interact with iron and trap it in the filter. You cannot mechanically "filter" it out. The reason I know this is because of problems I had at a second home on a well with an iron problem.
 

hankering2swim

Active member
Jul 6, 2019
36
Indiana
The only way to filter iron from a well is with an iron filter that uses a reactive agent such as manganese dioxide or Birm. These are catalysts that interact with iron and trap it in the filter. You cannot mechanically "filter" it out. The reason I know this is because of problems I had at a second home on a well with an iron problem.
The only way to filter iron from a well is with an iron filter that uses a reactive agent such as manganese dioxide or Birm. These are catalysts that interact with iron and trap it in the filter. You cannot mechanically "filter" it out. The reason I know this is because of problems I had at a second home on a well with an iron problem.
where did you find such filter? Does it replace my current cartridge? Thanks
 

PoolguyinCT

In The Industry
Jul 21, 2014
3,077
Connecticut
To OP ? - absolutely no swimming in depicted condition. Drowning is swift & silent, despite sanitation 100% visibility of bathers is a requisite for use.
 

hankering2swim

Active member
Jul 6, 2019
36
Indiana
You need some CYA. It is called Cyanuric Acid or stabilizer, or conditioner. You can get it at Walmart, Home Depot,etc.
Use PoolMath and add enough CYA to add 30 ppm to your pool.

Then maintain FC of 3 ppm (minimum) in the pool.
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

What does the Baleco test kit test for?
Would a test kit like the HTH 6-way test kit be ok? I know its not the one you suggested but it is less expensive $17 shipped vs $82. Or do I really need the more expensive test Kit? Thanks
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
23,594
Laughlin, NV
Your issue is number of tests you get and the ability to accurately test FC. The HtH does not get it. I think it tests CYA like 4 times?

Or, you treat the pool as Seasonal - if it gets cloudy or other water issues, you dump it and start over. I would not suggest that looking at what it is taking to get to swim ready water.