Dad, can we swim yet?

Your issue is number of tests you get and the ability to accurately test FC. The HtH does not get it. I think it tests CYA like 4 times?

Or, you treat the pool as Seasonal - if it gets cloudy or other water issues, you dump it and start over. I would not suggest that looking at what it is taking to get to swim ready water.
[/QUOTE
Ok sounds like I better go with the TF-100. I agree dumping and refilling doesn't sound very good. It would end up the same the next time. I just have to figure out how to get this rust and iron out and should be ok.
 
Brilliant neon yellow is probably greater than 10ppm of chlorine. Hot pink is pH > 8.2 Your pH will read high when chlorine is high, but I think I would go ahead and try to drop the pH. Use poolmath to drop the pH to 7.0 Since your pH is so high, after one application will probably still read high. The point is not to have perfect pH at this point but to knock down the pH level so it isn't so high.
 
Brilliant neon yellow is probably greater than 10ppm of chlorine. Hot pink is pH > 8.2 Your pH will read high when chlorine is high, but I think I would go ahead and try to drop the pH. Use poolmath to drop the pH to 7.0 Since your pH is so high, after one application will probably still read high. The point is not to have perfect pH at this point but to knock down the pH level so it isn't so high.
Ok thanks. Also wondering if you use the OTO chlorine test included with the TF-100? I referenced the test comparison page and noticed that the taylors don't even include it since it includes the FAS/DPD.
 
Brilliant neon yellow is probably greater than 10ppm of chlorine. Hot pink is pH > 8.2 Your pH will read high when chlorine is high, but I think I would go ahead and try to drop the pH. Use poolmath to drop the pH to 7.0 Since your pH is so high, after one application will probably still read high. The point is not to have perfect pH at this point but to knock down the pH level so it isn't so high.
I Got on Pool math and it has several options on what product I will be using to drop the PH. Which one do you use?
 
After you get to know your pool you can use the OTO test as a gut check, does it have chlorine or not, kind of thing. Over time you will get to know your pool and about how much chlorine you need to add and how often without testing every parameter every day. Many people use the OTO every couple of days and do the FAS/DPD test once a week, but that is after the pool is clear and they have learned its habits.

Use muriatic acid to drop pH.
 
  • Like
Reactions: hankering2swim
After you get to know your pool you can use the OTO test as a gut check, does it have chlorine or not, kind of thing. Over time you will get to know your pool and about how much chlorine you need to add and how often without testing every parameter every day. Many people use the OTO every couple of days and do the FAS/DPD test once a week, but that is after the pool is clear and they have learned its habits.

Use muriatic acid to drop pH.
Thanks for all the help and to everyone else who has commented thank you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jkowskidpm
Brilliant neon yellow is probably greater than 10ppm of chlorine. Hot pink is pH > 8.2 Your pH will read high when chlorine is high, but I think I would go ahead and try to drop the pH. Use poolmath to drop the pH to 7.0 Since your pH is so high, after one application will probably still read high. The point is not to have perfect pH at this point but to knock down the pH level so it isn't so high.
Is this safe for me to get in and stir it up?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You need some CYA. It is called Cyanuric Acid or stabilizer, or conditioner. You can get it at Walmart, Home Depot,etc.
Use PoolMath and add enough CYA to add 30 ppm to your pool.

Then maintain FC of 3 ppm (minimum) in the pool.
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

What does the Baleco test kit test for?
OK so the pool is much clearer today, can actually see the bottom. We went to town and bought the stabilizer for the CYA and some muriatic acid to bring ph down also HTH 6-way test strips to use until my better test kit gets here that I ordered last night. I know that test strips are not that accurate but they show my CYA in the ideal range. Should I still add the stabilizer?
 
Nope,
So you know how good those test strips are? They are showing your CYA as good, when there is none in the water.
 
Got my test kit today and ran a full test. Here are the numbers I got on my first test. Hopefully I did it right
FC-0
CC-0.4
PH-8
TA 330 ppm
CH 150 ppm
CYA-0

Per PoolMath:
I added 25 oz 10% chlorine
81 oz or 20 baume muriatic acid
34 oz of dry stabilizer filled into old sock tied off @ returns.
Well............. How did I do? lol by the way the pool is very clear now. I felt like that was a lot of muriatic acid but that is what PoolMath suggested.
 
I would advise redoing the TA but use a wet rag to clean off the dropper bottle top of the titrating agent between each drop. 330 is a really high TA and the bottle on some of the TA titrating reagents has an issue of static electricity that causes the droplets to be too small. That can give a falsely high reading.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Chickinvic
I would advise redoing the TA but use a wet rag to clean off the dropper bottle top of the titrating agent between each drop. 330 is a really high TA and the bottle on some of the TA titrating reagents has an issue of static electricity that causes the droplets to be too small. That can give a falsely high reading.
Ok I will but for now I have already added the muriatic acid for that level. No what should I do? Will it be ok to swim in? Is that a damaging amount of acid?
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.