mguzzy
Gold Supporter
@Galaxie 500 and @Newdude... what the heck are you talking about? did I miss something that connects your AC to CYA?
CYA is zero. Really zero. I attempted to SLAM. Did I ruin my liner
- Thread starter EzriJax
- Start date
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Well sounds like you have multiple tests with 40ish.. so lets ride with that.. and that sounds perfect-ish. Lesson learned..is if you get a test result that is not expected.. test twice more to confirm.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,693
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
This was my hope- u tested too soon & it wasn’t dispersed properly yet. High cya isn’t the end of the world but it definitely complicates things & adds to the empty bleach bottle count. Continue Slamming for 40ppm cya so fc of 16. Just to be clear no one is trying to be ugly or accusatory when asking questions- just trying to get all the pieces of the puzzle so we don’t lead u astray due to missing information. Also of note.. if you’re using PoolMath & are keeping logs you can toggle on sharing in the settings & make them visible w/your profile to the forum. This helps us solve mysteries as well as keeps you from having to try to explain / remember every addition you’ve made.
SLAM ON @EzriJax !
Rich807
Bronze Supporter
75 CYA would be higher than ideal CYA count if that’s what yours really is.
CYA reading is the hardest test to get a solid confidence with. Repetition by testing over time will help you with that (practice makes perfect).
The place that sells the TF 100 test kit also sells pre-calibrated bottles of test water for various things such as CYA. In other words you can buy their water with a specific amt of cya already in it to test against with your kit at home.
CYA reading is the hardest test to get a solid confidence with. Repetition by testing over time will help you with that (practice makes perfect).
The place that sells the TF 100 test kit also sells pre-calibrated bottles of test water for various things such as CYA. In other words you can buy their water with a specific amt of cya already in it to test against with your kit at home.
Yes, I have these. It’s how I learned to do the test bc “till the dot disappears” just didn’t make sense. My water was always clear, no turbidity, so I used the samples and THEN I got it.
Just as a word of caution on the standard solutions, they are not always that accurate. At the beginning of this season I had some issues with my CYA test results showing less than testable amounts of CYA. So I ordered the standard solution to improve my testing skills and confirm my reagent was good. It tested the same as my pool water, less than 30. After some process of elimination I determine it was the standard that was no good. Dosing the pool with CYA and recent tests confirmed that finding. People much more knowledgeable than me advised me accurate standard solutions are very difficult and expensive to produce. TFTestkits at least refunded me my cost, and I learned I won’t order standard solutions again. My advice, proceed with caution using standard solutions.
I actually found that my test solution was a little off. It was supposed to be 50ppm and I found it tested at 30. However, I got to see the turbidity, which I wasn’t getting with my pool water. My pool water was just clear every time so I really couldn’t fathom how the dot would disappear.
I appreciate your mention of this though, because it makes me feel a lot more confident of my testing ability. (It WAS the solution after all, not me.)
FYI-CYA was 40 again this morning, and we got some serious rain last night, so I
think I’ve reached my goal with this and will dose my pool with chlorine accordingly, without worry.
JoeSelf
Gold Supporter
CYA test is done outside back to sun, tube at waist. Not indoors.
I thought I read somewhere it was preferable to do the water tests indoors? The lighting is certainly more consistent inside...
- May 20, 2020
- 1,000
- Pool Size
- 13600
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Solaxx (Saltron) Reliant / Purechlor R5
Not a joke. Temperature can impact the CYA test turbidity. If the water is below ~70F it can impact the result.
Aah. ~70F makes more sense than “room temp” which, seemed weird cuz my pool is outside, not in a room. But yeah, ~70 is about what I imagine a glass of water on my counter would be.
I read legal docs and mortgages for a living, and battle with attorneys nearly daily about actual definitions vs common use. (I am not an attorney, just a “lay person” aka “moron” lol) That all gets to me sometimes, and fries me poor brain.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,452
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
From CYA Testing - Further Reading
Cold Test Water Should be Room Temperature for CYA Test
If the water temperature is below 70F degrees let the water warm up inside before you do the CYA test.The standard instructions to mix for 30 seconds is not enough time when the water is cold. You can either mix longer, or allow the sample to warm up to room temperature. Best solution is to allow the the sample to warm up first and then shake it for 30 seconds.[4]
Taylor Technologies has run the pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, free chlorine, and cyanuric acid tests on known standard solutions at approximately 104°F, 75°F, 60°F, and 40°F. Only at 40°F did the CYA standard solution test higher than its actual value (after accounting for test variability). All other tests were unaffected by temperature differences.[5]
The melamine solution that is used in the better tests is at low pH so as to force the maximum precipitation of melamine cyanurate since it is somewhat soluble at pH 7.0 with a solubility of around 20 ppm. There is no question that at colder temperatures it will take longer to precipitate.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
I will hold the little sample bottle in my had for a little while.. or set it in the sun while I run other tests.
ok, good to know. I do not think temp has affected my tests at all then because a) my pool water has consistently been around 70 and b) I do the test indoors, where it is swelteringly warm lately due to said AC failure and c) CYA test is not first so it has time to warm up.
Well, I think this will be my last post on this thread. I “opened” the pool to swimming today.
My CYA tests crept up to 50 over the last few days, despite the miserable rain we got this weekend. I had Daryl the Dolphin vacuuming the pool nearly constantly for about 4 days. I’d filter all night, then run the robot all day. Turns out I had a lot more junk in the pool than was visible to the naked eye.
On Monday the pool was still the slightest bit cloudy, despite keeping the chlorine at SLAM levels consistently for over a week. I was getting really discouraged. Even though I’ve been vacuuming a lot, there was still a brownish haze on the floor nearly all the time. I have been reading reading reading reading here, and I saw somewhere someone did a SLAM at “mustard algae” (MA) levels and it cleared up some persistent cloudiness. I decided to try it.
I looked up the chemgeek chart which had that “extra” chlorine level for MA and got the chlorine up nearly that high Monday night. Yesterday (Tuesday) the cc results were crazy. They’ve consistently been at .5 or lower, but yesterday they were 1.5, 2, 1, etc. until night time. Then it went down. The chlorine was killing whatever it was that was lingering in there, at last!
Last night the pool was MUCH clearer, and the FC had dropped to “regular” SLAM levels so I vacuumed all night. (Yes, I got up and went out there at 3 am to run Daryl again.) First thing in the am today the FC had only gone down .5 ppm and cc was back to .5 so I think that qualifies as passing the OCLT? Also, the water was CLEAR!! I could see the bottom in the deep end perfectly. That’s test #2 right? All of the tests today had a cc result at .5 or 0. Test #3...pass!
So, despite the fact that the water temp was only around 66* because of the simply dreadful weather we’ve had so far (considering it’s June) I gave the green light for the family to go in. Nobody died. From hypothermia or exposure to chlorine that’s a little higher than ideal. (8.5)
My “final frontier” is to tweak the ph a little . And, in the spirit of perfectionism, I want my water to GLISTEN like a beautiful turquoise jewel, so I’ll be back to pick the collective brains of all you knowledgeable folks on polishing water to high shine. I’m thinking about adding DE to the filter, and maybe a slime bag.
But not tonight. Tonight I’m gonna enjoy some quiet time which I’ve earned after 12 days of continuous pool duty. And which I can actually have since my kids went to bed early because they were all the kind of tired they only get from swimming.
My CYA tests crept up to 50 over the last few days, despite the miserable rain we got this weekend. I had Daryl the Dolphin vacuuming the pool nearly constantly for about 4 days. I’d filter all night, then run the robot all day. Turns out I had a lot more junk in the pool than was visible to the naked eye.
On Monday the pool was still the slightest bit cloudy, despite keeping the chlorine at SLAM levels consistently for over a week. I was getting really discouraged. Even though I’ve been vacuuming a lot, there was still a brownish haze on the floor nearly all the time. I have been reading reading reading reading here, and I saw somewhere someone did a SLAM at “mustard algae” (MA) levels and it cleared up some persistent cloudiness. I decided to try it.
I looked up the chemgeek chart which had that “extra” chlorine level for MA and got the chlorine up nearly that high Monday night. Yesterday (Tuesday) the cc results were crazy. They’ve consistently been at .5 or lower, but yesterday they were 1.5, 2, 1, etc. until night time. Then it went down. The chlorine was killing whatever it was that was lingering in there, at last!
Last night the pool was MUCH clearer, and the FC had dropped to “regular” SLAM levels so I vacuumed all night. (Yes, I got up and went out there at 3 am to run Daryl again.) First thing in the am today the FC had only gone down .5 ppm and cc was back to .5 so I think that qualifies as passing the OCLT? Also, the water was CLEAR!! I could see the bottom in the deep end perfectly. That’s test #2 right? All of the tests today had a cc result at .5 or 0. Test #3...pass!
So, despite the fact that the water temp was only around 66* because of the simply dreadful weather we’ve had so far (considering it’s June) I gave the green light for the family to go in. Nobody died. From hypothermia or exposure to chlorine that’s a little higher than ideal. (8.5)
My “final frontier” is to tweak the ph a little . And, in the spirit of perfectionism, I want my water to GLISTEN like a beautiful turquoise jewel, so I’ll be back to pick the collective brains of all you knowledgeable folks on polishing water to high shine. I’m thinking about adding DE to the filter, and maybe a slime bag.
But not tonight. Tonight I’m gonna enjoy some quiet time which I’ve earned after 12 days of continuous pool duty. And which I can actually have since my kids went to bed early because they were all the kind of tired they only get from swimming.