CYA is zero. Really zero. I attempted to SLAM. Did I ruin my liner

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
2,453
Hernando, Ms
Pool Size
26000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
Why did you add so much cya if you are still doing SLAM Process? Now you’re slam fc level to maintain is 31 if that cya test is correct. Hopefully after allowing it to mix it is really not that high.
How much did u add in pounds?
You only needed to add 30 ppm worth of cya so the sun doesn’t eat your chlorine while slamming.
 
Last edited:

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
2,505
Spring Valley, NY
Considering you tested the CYA properly that's now 80, so calculate the slam for this new level. If you tested ph this morning at 10.5 FC then it'll be fairly accurate.
 

EzriJax

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2020
57
Northern RI
Pool Size
34000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Why did you add so much cya if you are still doing SLAM Process? Now you’re slam fc level to maintain is 31 if that cya test is correct. Hopefully after allowing it to mix it is really not that high.
How much did u add in pounds?
You only needed to add 30 ppm worth of cya so the sun doesn’t eat your chlorine while slamming.
I had NO stabilizer in my water at all, because we got the pool completed late in the season last year, and had no pump or filter, so all I added was enough chlorine (based on guidance I got here) to keep it from becoming a swamp. So this season I had to add it, to get the minimum required level.

The pool co I hired to open the pool for me (since I’ve never owned a pool ever, and the pump/filter needed to be run for the first time and checked etc) dumped a ton of chlorine in the pool to shock it, not realizing I had NO stabilizer in there. I didn’t know I needed it (I explained my confusion on that subject) and the pool store employees told me I shouldn’t add it till after I finish “shocking” it.

I added almost 8 lbs so far (there’s about 1.5 lbs left in the 8lb bag) but the pool math calculator says I need to add 136 oz, which is 8.5 lbs.

I have stopped adding it today to see how the numbers look later.
 

mguzzy

Gold Supporter
CYA 75

How accurate is that CYA reading? I’ve still got a few more ounces to add (according to pool math) and I backwashed last night. I took that sample first thing in the morning, 1’ under water, the furthest point from the socks/returns. I’m not sure this morning how much chlorine to add bc that CYA number is not at all what I expected.
What was the target you were shooting for? If you are truly at 75 ppm (actually 80 'cause you round up) then you are too high for a liquid chlorine dosed pool. You should be following these two charts (not what the pool store says.. oh we already covered that part):
Recommended Levels
FC/CYA Chart
I would redo the test.. and see if its correct. If you really are at 80, then lets proceed from there. No worries.. I recall that RI gets lots of summer rains.. at least it rained on me a lot the last summer I was there. You can use that to your advantage to help dilute the pool. Just drain off some water before the rain and let the rain refill it for you. CYA testing can take a day or two to stabilize and completely dissolve. So test for CYA tomorrow and see where you are. This is actually a really good learning experience, because you will see how much more effective the FC is as the CYA drifts down,
 

revitup

Gold Supporter
Bronze Supporter
Nov 30, 2019
546
Pawleys Island, SC
Pool Size
8500
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Fiberglass
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SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Are you using 34k gals in the Poolmath calculations? Are you sure of that? PBs and manufacturers volume numbers are notoriously inaccurate.
 

Newdude

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
8,786
NY
Morning! I’ve spent the last day force feeding stabilizer into the pool. I tied 4 socks full of CYA in front of the returns and squeezed as often as I could.
I let mine sit for a full day while I enjoyed doing other things. The next day they were mush and squeezed out in a couple minutes.
How accurate is that CYA reading
We round up to the next 10. 71-79=80.
Also, the ph reading is not quite accurate either right? Because the chlorine is high
10FC or above skews the PH test so it’s invalid. That’s why you adjust PH to start the SLAM so you know it’s fine for a week or so.
might be worrying too much, and making this more complicated than it needs to be
Babysit your FC and filter. Ignore the rest for now.
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
2,505
Spring Valley, NY
I had NO stabilizer in my water at all, because we got the pool completed late in the season last year, and had no pump or filter, so all I added was enough chlorine (based on guidance I got here) to keep it from becoming a swamp. So this season I had to add it, to get the minimum required level.

The pool co I hired to open the pool for me (since I’ve never owned a pool ever, and the pump/filter needed to be run for the first time and checked etc) dumped a ton of chlorine in the pool to shock it, not realizing I had NO stabilizer in there. I didn’t know I needed it (I explained my confusion on that subject) and the pool store employees told me I shouldn’t add it till after I finish “shocking” it.

I added almost 8 lbs so far (there’s about 1.5 lbs left in the 8lb bag) but the pool math calculator says I need to add 136 oz, which is 8.5 lbs.

I have stopped adding it today to see how the numbers look later.
I see ERROR here. According to my calculations @34k water capacity you would need 8.5lbs stabilizer to reach 30 CYA. Tell us how you got 75 by giving us your step by step testing method.
 

Deb04

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 12, 2008
429
Seacoast, NH
Pool Size
19000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
For next time you need chlorine on a Sunday, Ocean State Job Lot carries it. 1 gallon jugs are $3.99. At least they were as of about a week ago. It’s a good source if you don’t have someplace cheaper. They have fresh stock.

I just recommend not buying the stabilizer they carry. From prior experience it doesn’t appear to be pure CYA.
 

Bperry

Gold Supporter
Aug 20, 2020
596
Knoxville, TN
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
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CircuPool RJ-60
I see ERROR here. According to my calculations @34k water capacity you would need 8.5lbs stabilizer to reach 30 CYA. Tell us how you got 75 by giving us your step by step testing method.
Yea, 34k gallons is a pretty big pool.
 

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tspenard

Active member
Nov 10, 2016
29
St. Louis, MO
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I had NO stabilizer in my water at all, because we got the pool completed late in the season last year, and had no pump or filter, so all I added was enough chlorine (based on guidance I got here) to keep it from becoming a swamp. So this season I had to add it, to get the minimum required level.

The pool co I hired to open the pool for me (since I’ve never owned a pool ever, and the pump/filter needed to be run for the first time and checked etc) dumped a ton of chlorine in the pool to shock it, not realizing I had NO stabilizer in there. I didn’t know I needed it (I explained my confusion on that subject) and the pool store employees told me I shouldn’t add it till after I finish “shocking” it.

I added almost 8 lbs so far (there’s about 1.5 lbs left in the 8lb bag) but the pool math calculator says I need to add 136 oz, which is 8.5 lbs.

I have stopped adding it today to see how the numbers look later.
Did I miss what kind of filter you have? I'm still learning this forum but I checked your info page and skimmed through the thread...
I would guess you have a sand filter based on your description of events and observations.
What I would have done after taking your original measurements and pool water conditions follows. I use this routine to save chemicals and time. It works every year on my swamp reveal (mesh safety cover makes it worse). These are rough numbers based on my 30K vinyl pool which is close to yours in volume. I'm going by my previously calculated opening plan and your initial measurements, but not to your exact pool volume.
1) Manually and slowly vacuum the heavy Crud from the floor and lower sides to waste; try not to stir it up. Adjust water level to normal.
2) Shock at about 10-15 ppm liquid chlorine (LQ), run the filter 100%, skim the surface often, and continuously change out filter socks until the water is gray or blue looking. It will be cloudy but that's OK for now. Shock twice, about a day apart, to make sure you keep the level up and kill chloramines.as well as bacteria. It's slight overkill but it's cheap and harmless if dosed properly.
3) Backwash the filter as necessary to get rid of the majority of dead bio material.
4) Once the filter can be run for a few days without totally plugging up (usually takes me a couple days to reach this point) I'd take care of the balance issues in one shot. I'd add two ~13lb bags of baking soda, 1/3 bag per bucket of water at a time to get it mixed quickly. Slowly add 8lbs of CYA through the closest skimmer to the equipment. It will stay in your filter and slowly dissolve and distribute safely over the next few days. DO NOT BACKWASH for a few days. Add a daily maintenance dose of LQ if necessary to keep FC around 5ppm. Don't worry about PH yet. It will creep towards normal due to the baking soda addition, plus keeping it slightly low for now is beneficial.
5) After 3 days you can backwash the filter. The water should be clear enough to see the deep end if not nearly crystal clear. The floor will be dirty from dropout, that's OK. I wouldn't waste time vacuuming to waste again and I don't want to stir it up yet. I use a dummy pipe in place of my SWG during the above procedures until this point when I install my SWG. I didn't mention it above but during the 3 day CYA dissolving period I would test and add all the salt I need to reach 3500ppm within the first 2 days. Dump the salt around the sides then slowly brush it into the main drain to distribute. Run an automatic vacuum if you want. I have a cheaper Dolphin; I don't care if it succumbs to salt water or high chlorine level damage. It's been going fine for many years without any repairs.
6) You'll need to augment chlorine as the SWG is put into operation. It won't be able to build up from zero to your target FC level by itself unless it's a monster unit. I run mine for one day in "shock" mode while adding LQ in small doses. Then I run it at 40% during the hot season. The SWG will raise PH so your PH should be normal in no time. If you don't use a SWG then ignore all SWG advice and simply adjust PH up in step 5.
7) Your water should be pretty clear now, so CYA test will be more accurate (it will also be in range where the tester is more accurate). If you are using test strips, stop. Get the liquid turbidity test with the sight tube. Do not raise CYA as high as your last readings would suggest. Hopefully you just got a bad reading. 8lbs of CYA should have gotten you in the low range of good. I like to run about 50-60ppm early on as it will slowly go down over the season due to SWG operation and water replacement.
8) Test TA and add baking soda as necessary to get it around 80ppm. You'll need to add a small dose of BS about every month to maintain. A higher TA level can have negative effects on chemistry; there's no reason to run 120ppm or more as is often suggested by chemical and equipment literature.
9) I have a DE filter which traps that tiny dust-like dead bacteria whereas my old sand filter did not. So now instead of vacuuming the floor to waste (frequently) I vacuum the remaining Crud on the pool floor into the filter. Then I break it down and clean the grids once which lasts me the whole season. I only backwash and recharge the filter and vacuum to waste once each during startup, saving a lot of water.
It took 1 week and about 6 solid hours of work from removing the cover on a swamp to achieving crystal clear, balanced water this year.
 

EzriJax

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2020
57
Northern RI
Pool Size
34000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I see ERROR here. According to my calculations @34k water capacity you would need 8.5lbs stabilizer to reach 30 CYA. Tell us how you got 75 by giving us your step by step testing method.
Ok, I see a question as to how I determined 34k gallons...I figured that out myself based on how many water deliveries we got and gal/min x how many minutes we ran the hose to top it off. It’s a little low right now, so it could be closer to 35k when it’s totally full. (I also have a leak, but I’m not ready to deal with that yet, since it’s only at the “top” of the pool’s capacity)

I also calculated 8.5 lbs of cya to get to 30ppm.

I have the Taylor kit, as was recommended here. I obtained a sample 1’ underwater away from the returns where I have socks full of dry stabilizer suspended for distribution. I use a jar, inverted till it’s submerged to 1’, then I flip it to let the water in, then screw the cap on. I’m sure there’s an easier way but that’s what I’m doing for now. I take it in the house, where I have my test kit set up in my kitchen, since I’m testing so frequently. I fill the little bottle to the bottom of the label, then add the R-0013 to the top of the label, mix, wait 30 seconds+ (I do the chlorine test while waiting), shake, then I squeeze the solution into the CYA tube held about waist level with my back to the glaring hideous lights in my kitchen till I can’t see the black dot anymore.

I purchased the standards kit (or whatever it’s called) with my test kit and practiced this test to get the hang of it, and I watched videos of it being done. If there’s something about this procedure that stands out please let me know.
 

Bperry

Gold Supporter
Aug 20, 2020
596
Knoxville, TN
Pool Size
27000
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Plaster
Chlorine
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Ok, I see a question as to how I determined 34k gallons...I figured that out myself based on how many water deliveries we got and gal/min x how many minutes we ran the hose to top it off. It’s a little low right now, so it could be closer to 35k when it’s totally full. (I also have a leak, but I’m not ready to deal with that yet, since it’s only at the “top” of the pool’s capacity)

I also calculated 8.5 lbs of cya to get to 30ppm.

I have the Taylor kit, as was recommended here. I obtained a sample 1’ underwater away from the returns where I have socks full of dry stabilizer suspended for distribution. I use a jar, inverted till it’s submerged to 1’, then I flip it to let the water in, then screw the cap on. I’m sure there’s an easier way but that’s what I’m doing for now. I take it in the house, where I have my test kit set up in my kitchen, since I’m testing so frequently. I fill the little bottle to the bottom of the label, then add the R-0013 to the top of the label, mix, wait 30 seconds+ (I do the chlorine test while waiting), shake, then I squeeze the solution into the CYA tube held about waist level with my back to the glaring hideous lights in my kitchen till I can’t see the black dot anymore.

I purchased the standards kit (or whatever it’s called) with my test kit and practiced this test to get the hang of it, and I watched videos of it being done. If there’s something about this procedure that stands out please let me know.
If the calculation was to get from 0 to 35ppm but you actually got 75ppm, then there are only three possibilities I can see:
1. You actually had about 30 ppm already in the water before you added any CYA.
2. You have much less water than you think you do.
3. You performed the test incorrectly either first or the last one.
 
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EzriJax

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2020
57
Northern RI
Pool Size
34000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have tested my water twice today (as often as my workday will allow) and my FC has stayed at 12. CYA was 40 both times (in between 30 and 40 actually, but I guess I should round up) so I’m not going to add anymore stabilizer. I think it’s fine, but I’ll keep testing it to make sure it doesn’t drop.

I’m thinking I just got a bad sample (one that had a high concentration of the acid that I just couldn’t see.)
 

Deb04

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 12, 2008
429
Seacoast, NH
Pool Size
19000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
In one of your earlier posts you said that you put 4 lbs of CYA in the pool last year. Im thinking you started at something a little higher than 0, but not high enough to register on the test.
 
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EzriJax

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2020
57
Northern RI
Pool Size
34000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
In one of your earlier posts you said that you put 4 lbs of CYA in the pool last year. Im thinking you started at something a little higher than 0, but not high enough to register on the test.
Yes, I did put some in last year, but I figured with the amount that was drained out, and with all the snow melt/rain and the amount I added from the hose, it would be gone.
 

Newdude

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
8,786
NY
+1. My guy gave me a ballpark # to replace mine for $6k when we moved into the new place and had the 19 year old unit checked out. House is 2500 sq ft for comparison reasons.
 

Bperry

Gold Supporter
Aug 20, 2020
596
Knoxville, TN
Pool Size
27000
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Plaster
Chlorine
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CircuPool RJ-60
+1. My guy gave me a ballpark # to replace mine for $6k when we moved into the new place and had the 19 year old unit checked out. House is 2500 sq ft for comparison reasons.
I saw that but assumed it was some kind of commercial AC or a misunderstanding. Please don't pay $18k for a residential AC unit replacement!
 

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