Current Water Analysis Report

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Wayhazard

Wayhazard

0
Aug 15, 2018
46
Houston/Texas
Hello Again All,
I took a sample yesterday to my local Leslie’s Pool and got these readings,
FAC -0
TAC -0
Salt -3800
CH -200
CYA - 30
TA -90
PH -7.4
Copper -0
Iron -0
Phosphates -600

So they tell me salt is high, need to add chlorine, and that my phosphates are is high. Also my CYA are low, and that I need this and that total amount to be $101. Now to the true professional non- teenager really tell me what is going on? My swg is reading 2400 and then gives me the signal that I have low salt, and to inspect cell. I have already cleaned the cell as recommended on here. What do I need to do next to get my kids in here ASAP. I am looking like a failed father at the moment with these kids. Water is sparkling blue/clear, I need to vacuum to waste today to get the rest of the small dirt that has settled on the bottom. And top off, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and Happy Friday y’all!
Ed
 

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Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

We find that many times pool store employee’s primary goal is to sell stuff, not necessarily get your pool in perfect condition. As to whether that is because of improper training, lack of knowledge or just to sell stuff I will leave up to you. While you would think that a "professional” would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite.

Even though we do not trust pool store tests, there are a couple basic things you need to do right now. You need to get at least 5 ppm FC in the pool using liquid chlorine or bleach. Use PoolMath to determine how much you need.

Keep doing that each evening until you get a test kit.
Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.

As far as SWCG, the typical reaction of a cell that is failing is to show significantly lower salt readings than what is tested independently.

How old is the SWCG?

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

- - - Updated - - -

And once you get the FC in the water, go swimming!

Do you have at a minimum a small two way test (TC/pH) that you can use until you get your proper test kit?
 
4 years is not a bad lifetime for the SWCG. I would suggest getting a real salinity test kit like the K1766 if you want to check your salinity. TFTestskits.net has those test kits too.

The K1004 does not have a test for CYA nor can test FC above 5 ppm. Get your self a proper test kit as discussed above.
 
mknauss said:
4 years is not a bad lifetime for the SWCG. I would suggest getting a real salinity test kit like the K1766 if you want to check your salinity. TFTestskits.net has those test kits too.

The K1004 does not have a test for CYA nor can test FC above 5 ppm. Get your self a proper test kit as discussed above.
Click to expand...

Ok, will do!
In the meantime I’ll add the chlorine and read up on more info on here.
thanks again
 
Wayhazard said:
Today’s test from local pool store, should I worry about any of these readings now that I got the chlorine up?
Click to expand...

This is a perfect example as to why we don't rely on pool store testing.

These results when compared to your previous from just 2 days ago show a drop in CYA, yet an increase in salt which I seriously doubt could have happened unless you partially drained your pool, refilled and added salt. Which I'm guessing it's safe to say you didn't do.

Good job :goodjob: on getting the chlorine in there.

Use your K1004 test kit and PoolMath to test and adjust your chlorine level to 5ppm daily.

You don't need to worry about anything else until your new test kit arrives.

When it does :testresults:like this please and we'll guide you from there:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Just curious as to why you vacuum to waste?

Also, while it's difficult to tell from your picture, is that dirt on the bottom just above center? If it is, I would not say your water is clear.

Just to be sure before anyone goes swimming (which is safe to do as long as you dose for 5ppm daily until you get your test kit) I want to be sure that what you call clear is also what we call clear. If you put a quarter in the bottom of your pool, can you tell whether it is heads or tails?
 
Hello Winnie the pool, You are right I did not drain and replace the water nor add any salt. All I have done was add two jugs on liquid chlorine and circulate the pool water.
I was told from my buddy to vacuum to waste so that the dirt or debris does not go in your filter. Is this accurate? or should I vacuum to filter and then backwash the filter and rinse afterwards? About the picture I added yes there is some dirt that I needed to vacuum, along with some stains I believe on the vinyl as I scrub it and nothing happens to the area. I will try the coin and see if I can tell if its heads or tails.

Thanks for your response
Ed
 
No more wasting time on pool store testing, right? Well maybe just once after you get your test kit so you can see for yourself how far off their test results are compared to yours. :poke:

Salt, CYA and chlorine are reduced whenever you drain and replace water. Vacuuming to waste drains much more water out of your pool then backwashing does, upsetting the balance of your water.

I would only vacuum to waste if you have a large amount of debris, for example after a storm and a lot of leaves get blown in and fall to the bottom. Since you have a round pool, before you get out of the pool, run around the perimeter a couple times to create a whirlpool which will deposit the majority amount of the debris right in the center, then just vacuum that small area to waste. That will save you valuable, balanced pool water.

You don't need to backwash every time you vacuum. You should backwash when the pressure on your filter gauge raises 25% above clean pressure. I think you'll find that you really don't have to backwash or top off your water level that often.

Let me know if it's heads or tails...
 
Not as certain as I should be...Salt Chlorinators used to be run at 6000 mg/l then they went to 4000 mg/l now I understand they are recommending lower salt levels...however when I got the rep in from the suppliers about 10 years ago and asked about these claims of lower and lower levels of salt the answer I got was

'We are recommending lower levels of salt to satisfy the environmental lobby. If you run extended times at the lower levels the salt cells wont last as long as effectively we are simply making them work harder. I wouldn't run the salt below 4000.'

This is a different country and we run a different frequency so the rules may not apply however I also know there hasn't been any advancement in the technology in the last ten years. I don't think I would be too concerned with a mildly higher salt reading.
 

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Winnie-the-Pool said:
No more wasting time on pool store testing, right? Well maybe just once after you get your test kit so you can see for yourself how far off their test results are compared to yours. :poke:

Salt, CYA and chlorine are reduced whenever you drain and replace water. Vacuuming to waste drains much more water out of your pool then backwashing does, upsetting the balance of your water.

I would only vacuum to waste if you have a large amount of debris, for example after a storm and a lot of leaves get blown in and fall to the bottom. Since you have a round pool, before you get out of the pool, run around the perimeter a couple times to create a whirlpool which will deposit the majority amount of the debris right in the center, then just vacuum that small area to waste. That will save you valuable, balanced pool water.

You don't need to backwash every time you vacuum. You should backwash when the pressure on your filter gauge raises 25% above clean pressure. I think you'll find that you really don't have to backwash or top off your water level that often.

Let me know if it's heads or tails...
Click to expand...
It was tails...
Ok so I got in and tested the water all was fine and the kids enjoyed the day in their own pool for the first time since we got the house 3 weeks ago. Right before their first day of school which by the way whoo hooo!!! So after this hard usage of the pool yesterday with about 5 people in and out of it, would I go ahead and shock it today and then test it? I still have not had the opportunity to buy a kit for a more accurate testing. I use the one that was left with the house but it was stored outside in a wooden cabinet and I'm not sure if the chemicals are any good as the recommended storage temps exceeds what it is here in Houston. I have a birthday party coming up this Saturday and I want to make sure the pool is ready again, I will try my best to give you all some readings to help guide me in this learning experience for using and maintaining a pool.
 
Wayhazard said:
go ahead and shock it today
Click to expand...
Do NOT ADD anything to your pool except liquid chlorine as above.

Test your chlorine level DAILY until you get a better test kit and the salinity test kit that Marty referred to above.

If your chlorine is low, indicating that your SWG is not working, add liquid chlorine as you did before DAILY or algae is going to develop.
When you get your test kits :testresults:like this please and we'll guide you from there:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT

It appears you may need a new cell for your SWG to get it working again. But we need to see YOUR test results
 
Winnie-the-Pool said:
Do NOT ADD anything to your pool except liquid chlorine as above.

Test your chlorine level DAILY until you get a better test kit and the salinity test kit that Marty referred to above.

If your chlorine is low, indicating that your SWG is not working, add liquid chlorine as you did before DAILY or algae is going to develop.
When you get your test kits :testresults:like this please and we'll guide you from there:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT

It appears you may need a new cell for your SWG to get it working again. But we need to see YOUR test results
Click to expand...

Ok, I ordered the test last night and should be here in a couple of days. I ordered the salt test and the TF100 kit.
Thanks for the reply
Ed
 
Ok everyone I got my test kit and here are my numbers,

FC- 4
CC- .5
pH- 7.2
TC 4.5 ?
CH - 100
TA - 60
CYA -40
my salt test is not here yet, I added some stabilizer today and 1 gal of liquid chlorine. Water still looks good, have to vacuum the bottom. Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Those test results are really good! Great job on getting a proper test kit.

Do not raise your CYA any more until you determine if your SWCG is functional.

Take care.
 
Wayhazard said:
Ok everyone I got my test kit and here are my numbers,

FC- 4
CC- .5
pH- 7.2
TC 4.5 ?
CH - 100
TA - 60
CYA -40
my salt test is not here yet, I added some stabilizer today and 1 gal of liquid chlorine. Water still looks good, have to vacuum the bottom. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Great numbers! TC is correct FC + CC =TC


How did you add the stabilizer?

When did you last add liquid chlorine? We need to figure out if your SWG is working or not.
 

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