Covered and unattended pool for three years. What are my first two steps?

I asked because it can effect draining & refilling options as you dont want the plaster to dry out in the sun 🌞 when u are ready for that step there are many folks here to guide u along. As mentioned previously the best way to rid yourself of the bromine is a full water exchange.
Thinking of keeping the bromine. New progress photos, as soon as I reach the bottom of the thread. Got a couple other issues I have no doubt you guys can help me solve.!
 
So, finally got that accursed cover out of the pool without dumping all of the contents. (The net didn't work for leaves, but came in handy). Scoop, scoop, scoop and then scoop some more finally worked out. Four bags of very wet leaves made it out to the curb today just before the rain.

Questions:
What can I do while waiting for my silt/sand rake to arrive?
The apron I suppose it is, appears to need new caulk or mortar or whatever. I this a DIY job?
I have a drain in the bottom of the pool that is rumored to either empty into the storm drain or rout through the filter. Does any attachment exist to allow me to pump that silt out and catch in a larger filter?
What are the disadvantages to simply keeping the bromine?
I say three frogs in the pool today. Is that a really bad thing?
Can I "shock a bromine pool and then still keep the bromine?
If I'm to keep the bromine or not, should I bring the water level up to the filter siphon inlets?
 

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Have seen frog problems too many times when the water is a swamp. Once the water comes around they won't be able to handle it and commit suicide when they enter the water. That'll be the end of them.
 
Questions:
What can I do while waiting for my silt/sand rake to arrive?
The apron I suppose it is, appears to need new caulk or mortar or whatever. I this a DIY job?
I have a drain in the bottom of the pool that is rumored to either empty into the storm drain or rout through the filter. Does any attachment exist to allow me to pump that silt out and catch in a larger filter?
What are the disadvantages to simply keeping the bromine?
I say three frogs in the pool today. Is that a really bad thing?
Can I "shock a bromine pool and then still keep the bromine?
If I'm to keep the bromine or not, should I bring the water level up to the filter siphon inlets?
1. You can siphon out while vacuuming the silt sand.
2. Yes you will need new caulk, depends if you are handy.
3. Bottom drains usually go to the suction side of the pump then trough the filter. Read #1.
4. Time and Money as said before. Since you are new, you should trust us that Bromine is not what is best for you.
5. Wildlife is always shown the door so they can leave never to return, no harm.
6. The problem with bromine is that shocking only converts bromide back into bromine. Its difficult to test and maintain levels. Did i say expensive? Oh yes! Expensive.
7. Not really, just make sure you use your bottom drain instead of the simmer drain. Post a picture of you equipment pad.
 
1. You can siphon out while vacuuming the silt sand.
2. Yes you will need new caulk, depends if you are handy.
3. Bottom drains usually go to the suction side of the pump then trough the filter. Read #1.
4. Time and Money as said before. Since you are new, you should trust us that Bromine is not what is best for you.
5. Wildlife is always shown the door so they can leave never to return, no harm.
6. The problem with bromine is that shocking only converts bromide back into bromine. Its difficult to test and maintain levels. Did i say expensive? Oh yes! Expensive.
7. Not really, just make sure you use your bottom drain instead of the simmer drain. Post a picture of you equipment pad.
Previously posted some of these, but here you go! Also learned that one of the sprinkler controls will top off the pool. However, have not begun the process of testing system and repairing expected leaks. Will a garden hose suffice temporarily for this job?
 

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I like to say you have two choices. Open up early and have a green pollen pool, or wait out the pollen falling and have a green algae pool. It’s going green either way. :ROFLMAO:
 
Your pump has 3 inputs. One controls 2 and the other control 1. A wild guess would be that those 3 inputs are:
Skimmer
Bottom Drain
Vacuum port

You need to figure out which is which by closing 2 of them and testing and so on. Make sure your filter is in recirculate, which right now is in the middle of 2 positions which is not good.
 
@Syrr

I will send you a PM. I have been crazy busy the past several weeks and should have some time to swing by next week. Since you already have half the liquid gone in your pool (not really water to me), I would take everyone's advice and pump it out to get rid of the bromine and a lot of green liquid at the same time. You will need to rent a gas powered sump pump from HD or something. I can show you how to do the tarp method of water exchange.

I will also talk with you about iron stains... :p I promise, you will get a crash course the first overwhelming year of pool ownership and then will be a pro if you stick to TFP.
 
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1. You can siphon out while vacuuming the silt sand.
2. Yes you will need new caulk, depends if you are handy.
3. Bottom drains usually go to the suction side of the pump then trough the filter. Read #1.
4. Time and Money as said before. Since you are new, you should trust us that Bromine is not what is best for you.
5. Wildlife is always shown the door so they can leave never to return, no harm.
6. The problem with bromine is that shocking only converts bromide back into bromine. Its difficult to test and maintain levels. Did i say expensive? Oh yes! Expensive.
7. Not really, just make sure you use your bottom drain instead of the simmer drain. Post a picture of you equipment pad.
Thank you for responding so quickly. By "Wildlife is always shown the door so they can leave" do you net and re-locate them on the property or?
 
Remem
Your pump has 3 inputs. One controls 2 and the other control 1. A wild guess would be that those 3 inputs are:
Skimmer
Bottom Drain
Vacuum port

You need to figure out which is which by closing 2 of them and testing and so on. Make sure your filter is in recirculate, which right now is in the middle of 2 positions which is not good.
 
Thank you sir.
Remember; though proficient in many areas, swimming pool service/maintenance is on a different planet for me.

Can likely figure out which doodad is a pump, but no clue about the big round thing-a-ma-bob. I think you're saying the NSF labeled Universal whatchamacallit handle is in the wrong position.

If so: where should it be while just sitting there quietly?
Possibly sillier question: must the whole thing be on to test anything?
 

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Can you fill out your signature with your equipment specs/models? Do the best you can and you will modify it as you become more familiar. Look at other people's signatures for a guide. You will need to get a rough estimate of your total gallons to do proper dosing for chemicals. Mine is somewhere between 25k and 26k gallons but approximate will be fine. 13k vs 26k is a whole lot different.
 
If so: where should it be while just sitting there quietly?
Possibly sillier question: must the whole thing be on to test anything?
The multiport valve is attached to the sand filter and is for directing water to different plumbing for multiple functions. Don't bother moving it around if nothing is turned on. Don't try to turn on anything or flip any switches until your pool is completely full of water. You are going to have some things in need of repair but you will definitely break your pump if it runs without water.
 

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