Thank you. I appreciate the distinction. Acronyms can be difficult for novices to any field.
Covered and unattended pool for three years. What are my first two steps?
- Thread starter Syrr
- Start date
Got my test kit in the mail yesterday. Still undecided on a direction for pool water. Bromine system already in place & a salt water chlorine generator sounds tempting, especially for skin and hair. Yet several people recommend chlorine for economy and simplicity.
Draining the pool presents another potential nightmare. Can find no local area statistics on pools damaged by draining.
Can anyone tell me which valve setting will drain the pool into the sewer?
It it possible to drain while adding new water to the pool at the same time to good effect for eliminating silt on the bottom?
Any recommendations of materials for re-calking the apron?
Draining the pool presents another potential nightmare. Can find no local area statistics on pools damaged by draining.
Can anyone tell me which valve setting will drain the pool into the sewer?
It it possible to drain while adding new water to the pool at the same time to good effect for eliminating silt on the bottom?
Any recommendations of materials for re-calking the apron?
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Geographic maps list Germantown TN at 387' above sea level, so you probably won't have an issue with ground water floating the pool. I'm at about half that elevation and didn't have any issues when my pool was drained and replastered. The crew drilled two holes in the deep end just in case, but no water ever came up. If you're concerned about it, you can drain 75% of the water water using the main drain only and then throw a large tarp over it (and up the sides) and start filling new water on top of the tarp while still draining from the main drain. Once the tarp reaches the bottom, all of your old water should be out.
While it’s certainly a good start, Lakes sit on top of mountains worldwide. Aquifers sit right below said tops. Dig 2 feet down near either and you get water. Sea level and ground water level are not mutually exclusive.
Good point. I always thought the risk is higher on the coasts near the water which would be obvious, but you're right...there could be a nearby water source as well. Tarp method would be a sensible approach.While it’s certainly a good start, Lakes sit on top of mountains worldwide. Aquifers sit right below said tops. Dig 2 feet down near either and you get water. Sea level and ground water level are not mutually exclusive.
Syrr - The multiport valve has a "waste" setting, so that is what you would use to send water out from the system...
small clarification to make sure. The salt system (SWCG) is still chlorine. You just don’t have to lug the chlorine jugs around as it generates the chlorine from the salt in the pool.
I appreciate information about this process of draining. The horror stories so far coupled with the pool company's indemnity clauses gives me adequate cause for pause.
You can probably drain half the water then do an exchanged with whats left and fill back up.
Thank you. Confirm please: I only need move the multi-port valve setting to the "waste" position without anything running, to dump water from the bottom of the pool into the storm sewer?
Can anyone tell me how to calculate the amount of water the swimming pool holds at the full point?
The pump has to run to use the Waste port.
Edit: If your main is likely covered with muck, not a good choice. Usual step is to use a sump pump, but that would be complicated if you have to send removed water to the sewer. I ended up modding my equipment pvc so I could waste without using the native Main or Skimmer, BUT at that point, I'd scooped so much that there was little chance of muck getting sucked up and fouling the pump. I was actually doing a vacuum-to-waste and also had a leaf catcher in the line before the pump.
Pool Math has a section at the bottom to help estimate water volume: Pool Math
Edit: If your main is likely covered with muck, not a good choice. Usual step is to use a sump pump, but that would be complicated if you have to send removed water to the sewer. I ended up modding my equipment pvc so I could waste without using the native Main or Skimmer, BUT at that point, I'd scooped so much that there was little chance of muck getting sucked up and fouling the pump. I was actually doing a vacuum-to-waste and also had a leaf catcher in the line before the pump.
Pool Math has a section at the bottom to help estimate water volume: Pool Math
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Still defining many of the acronyms I'm learning so thank you. Salt Water Chlorine Generator definitely appears inviting as an alternative to the bromine. Currently attempting to run down data on my pool equipment operation, specifications and cautions. I will continue to read opinions, data and recommendations from the wonderful members of this group.
turn the pump off before moving touching then multi port valve, always. If you have junk or debris on the bottom of the pool, use a sump pump and not your pool pump.
turn pump off, move valve to “waste”, then turn pump back on to pump the pool water to waste. When done, turn pump off, move valve to “rinse”, turn pump on for ~30 seconds, then turn pump off and move valve back to “filter”. Then turn pump back on.
are you sure your waste line is plumbed time the sewer? Mine just come out the filter onto the back lawn.
Waste 10 seconds is more than enough. Some say to move the multiport in one direction only.
A SWG is a luxury you can consider once your pool is clean and all balanced. It will produce enough chlorine to keep things in check after all cleaned up but you will need jugs of bleach either way with how messy your "water" is. I recommend getting rid of the bromine and doing liquid bleach for now.
Your focus needs to be on pumping out that nasty water, replacing with fresh water, and getting out all the debris. We really haven't had any rain within the past couple weeks so the water table shouldn't be too high but definitely don't take a chance. If you get a really big tarp, then you can just lay out over the nasty water with the sump pump pulling water from below and put the freshwater on top. If you get a powerful enough sump pump then it is likely you will not have too much mixing with the fresh water coming from your hoses. Just try to keep about a foot or so of water in the shallow end.
Your focus needs to be on pumping out that nasty water, replacing with fresh water, and getting out all the debris. We really haven't had any rain within the past couple weeks so the water table shouldn't be too high but definitely don't take a chance. If you get a really big tarp, then you can just lay out over the nasty water with the sump pump pulling water from below and put the freshwater on top. If you get a powerful enough sump pump then it is likely you will not have too much mixing with the fresh water coming from your hoses. Just try to keep about a foot or so of water in the shallow end.
Also, we have extremely cheap water in our area. I recently had a leak in my main water line which we used 66,000 gallons last month and our water bill including sewage was $220. You won't really have to worry about killing yourself financially if you allow a little bit of mixing and pump out some of the freshwater.
LooLooPoolNoob
Well-known member
II don't have much to add to what these certified pool magicians say. I was in the same pickle you were last year, my pool have been closed for 5 years completely unattended when we bought our house and with a lot of work and TFT I was able to get it Crystal! Listen to them! Drink the Pool-Aid!
Thank you. Yes, I am reasonably certain that the pool drains to the storm sewer. However, without first-hand experience it is not something to which I would testify. Hoping to acquire the original building plans, but waiting around is not preferred. Though I am learning a great deal, there seems to be much more to know in order to avoid making things worse.
if you pump some water to “waste” you will find out if it’s plumbed to somewhere other than the sewer pretty easily. It sounds like a lot to learn but it gets way easier over a short time. You’ll be fine.
Thank you Andy. Do you recommend buying or renting a sump pump capable of getting out the gunk clinging to the bottom?
I would love to have a gas powered sump pump on hand but would rarely need it. Renting from HD should be fine for this job. They will suck out an unbelievable amount of water so you will likely suck up some silt while you're at it. Just don't pump into your neighbors yard.