Converting to Rola-Chem for liquid chlorine dispensing

[TXpoolDIYguy]

I'm considering getting a Rola-Chem tank and peristaltic pump for liquid chlorine to mitigate the CYA buildup issues with tabs. I know the line from the rola-chem should be plumbed in the pool return line past the heater. Obviously with this setup I would predominantly be just using liquid chlorine, but I may want to throw a few tabs in every now and then if CYA dilutes with rain etc.

My question is, if I plumb the rola-chem line in past my tab feeder, and run it at the same time that there is a tab in the feeder, would there be enough mixing of trichlor and sodium hypochlorite to cause chlorine gas/heat issues? Or would the dilution be small enough that it wouldn't be an issue? My gut feeling is it would be better to be on the safe side and just manually add some CYA every now and then and forget the tabs altogether, but figured I'd ask.

Also, has anyone done the Rola-Chem conversion? Are you happy with it? I'm still on the fence. $630 for the unit, and then my chlorine cost would go from $220 to $450/yr, but I would save myself the annual drain and fill to dilute CYA.

Rola-Chem 15 Gallon Chemical Tank With RC303 Pro Series Pump Mounted - 12 GPD - 543854

This is a Rola-Chem 15 Gallon Chemical Tank with an RC303 Pro Series Peristaltic Pump pre-mounted. The RC303 Pro Series pump is 120 volts and handles a feed rate of 12 GPD. The chemical tank is constructed of heavy-duty high-density polyethylene. It is translucent which allows for visual check...

www.poolweb.com

 

[Bperry]

I'm considering getting a Rola-Chem tank and peristaltic pump for liquid chlorine to mitigate the CYA buildup issues with tabs. I know the line from the rola-chem should be plumbed in the pool return line past the heater. Obviously with this setup I would predominantly be just using liquid chlorine, but I may want to throw a few tabs in every now and then if CYA dilutes with rain etc.

My question is, if I plumb the rola-chem line in past my tab feeder, and run it at the same time that there is a tab in the feeder, would there be enough mixing of trichlor and sodium hypochlorite to cause chlorine gas/heat issues? Or would the dilution be small enough that it wouldn't be an issue? My gut feeling is it would be better to be on the safe side and just manually add some CYA every now and then and forget the tabs altogether, but figured I'd ask.

Also, has anyone done the Rola-Chem conversion? Are you happy with it? I'm still on the fence. $630 for the unit, and then my chlorine cost would go from $220 to $450/yr, but I would save myself the annual drain and fill to dilute CYA.

Rola-Chem 15 Gallon Chemical Tank With RC303 Pro Series Pump Mounted - 12 GPD - 543854

This is a Rola-Chem 15 Gallon Chemical Tank with an RC303 Pro Series Peristaltic Pump pre-mounted. The RC303 Pro Series pump is 120 volts and handles a feed rate of 12 GPD. The chemical tank is constructed of heavy-duty high-density polyethylene. It is translucent which allows for visual check...

www.poolweb.com

If you need to add CYA use a $5 floater in the pool water. Never ever mix chemicals.

Consider a salt chlorinator, it’s way more simple and cheaper in the long run.

 

[sande005]

X2 on the salt chlorinator. You'll then save the $450 chlorine expense every year, and not have to drive to get chlorine and lug jugs back and forth.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Ditch the tab feeder and put a SWG in. Tons of money to be saved down the road.

 

[TXpoolDIYguy]

My friend has a SWG and he said he has to add a ton of acid, like a gallon or two per week in the summer. I really want this to be as hands off as possible, I have 3 little kids and travel for work a lot. I understand that transporting gallons of LC every couple of months is not ideal, but then once the reservoir is full you are set for a couple months.

With tabs I have never had any chemical imbalance issues other than building CYA. Few tabs per week, one bucket lasts me most of the year. And then once per year I drain about 80% of it and refill to dilute CYA down to 20ppm before summer starts. The water and bucket of tabs costs me about $300. Hard to see savings in using a SWG when new cells are $1000+ and I'd be spending $$ on acid too.

 

[Donldson]

My friend has a SWG and he said he has to add a ton of acid, like a gallon or two per week in the summer.

Let me guess, keeps his TA around 100-120?

 

[TXpoolDIYguy]

Let me guess, keeps his TA around 100-120?

I'm not sure. Assuming TA is ok though, how much acid needs to be regularly added with a SWG system?

 

[mknauss]

There is no difference in acid requirements between a liquid chlorine or SWCG system. Both need acid to counteract the rise in TA from your fill water being added.
Trichlor is acidic. So it will reduce the need for acid additions.

 

[Donldson]

Pool stores promote a single TA range regardless of chlorine source. It tends to be a good range for pools chlorinated with highly acidic pucks, but causes problems for pools chlorinated with pH neutral sources such as liquid chlorine or SWG. Thus someone using those sources is constantly adding acid to adjust the pH, and then using baking soda to raise the TA in a continuous and self-defeating roller coaster.

TFP accounts for the chlorine source in its recommendations and leads to more stable pH.

 

[Newdude]

Assuming TA is ok though,

There's a saying about that.

As said above, switching from pucks you'll see more Ph rise either way. The industry chooses a 120 TA to minimize the acid in the trichlor. Once you switch to bleach or SWG, you changed the equation but their advice remains the same because the TA / PH roller coaster that ensues is crazy profitable.

It could also be excessive water feature use. We meet SO many people running their spillover / waterfall / bubblers / etc when the pool is idle everyday and nobody is out there to enjoy the ambiance.

It could also also be excessive Ph lowering with the misconception that chlorine is appreciable more effective at a low 7 Ph. (CYA mitigates most of the difference). Many find a high 7 Ph is more stable.

Push a swing gently and it comes back the same. Wail on the swing and it comes back with a vengeance, possibly whomping you in the face.

But again, the saying about assumptions usually rings true. We'll set you up for the least Ph rise for your setup.

 

[sande005]

Totally different pool, in a totally different area of the country....but for one twice the gallons of yours, I added 48 oz (once) for the entire summer. My TA was between 60 and 80 for that period, which kept things very stable. Besides TA, aeration can drive pH - so depending on what you have that stirs up the water, you may have to do more than my really basic pool. But your friends pool is clearly way out of whack!

 

[Mdragger88]

My friend has a SWG and he said he has to add a ton of acid, like a gallon or two per week in the summer. I really want this to be as hands off as possible, I have 3 little kids and travel for work a lot. I understand that transporting gallons of LC every couple of months is not ideal, but then once the reservoir is full you are set for a couple months.

With tabs I have never had any chemical imbalance issues other than building CYA. Few tabs per week, one bucket lasts me most of the year. And then once per year I drain about 80% of it and refill to dilute CYA down to 20ppm before summer starts. The water and bucket of tabs costs me about $300. Hard to see savings in using a SWG when new cells are $1000+ and I'd be spending $$ on acid too.

Tabs are acidic- liquid chlorine and a swcg do not have this acidic effect so this may happen either way when tabs are out of the picture. There are several ways to help mitigate ph rise frequency if this becomes the case for you including lowering Ta, adding borates, & reducing water features run times.

A properly sized salt cell (rated for at least 2x’s your pool’s volume) should last several years. Approximately 10k hrs of run time @ 100% (aka 20k hrs @50%) for most big brands.

 

[Bperry]

My friend has a SWG and he said he has to add a ton of acid, like a gallon or two per week in the summer. I really want this to be as hands off as possible, I have 3 little kids and travel for work a lot. I understand that transporting gallons of LC every couple of months is not ideal, but then once the reservoir is full you are set for a couple months.

With tabs I have never had any chemical imbalance issues other than building CYA. Few tabs per week, one bucket lasts me most of the year. And then once per year I drain about 80% of it and refill to dilute CYA down to 20ppm before summer starts. The water and bucket of tabs costs me about $300. Hard to see savings in using a SWG when new cells are $1000+ and I'd be spending $$ on acid too.

The acid needs of the pool are unrelated to the SWG as stated in a few posts above. I think I added it once last summer, but I had a trichlor tablet in a floater much of that time. The benefit of the SWG is that it’s easier (no going to the store every week for fresh liquid chlorine) and it’s cheaper in the long run. $300 in tablets every year x5 years is $1800. I think you can expect 7 years of use before replacing the cell if you size it correctly and keep up on water testing. And replacement cells are often cheaper than the initial one.

 

[.ben]

I have high TA fill water in Houston. When my pH rises above 8.0, I lower it to 7.8-7.6.

I add acid twice per week, about 10 oz, although I'm not sure the exact volume because there is no need to actually measure. I don't test for pH prior to acid additions, anymore, because I learned the behavior of my pool. This process takes 1 minute. I will (usually) test pH an hour or so later to verify I reached my target.

There is nothing wrong with a liquid chlorine dispenser. However, a SWG easier to install and maintain, and better solves your problem. The fact that chlorine generated by a SWG is much cheaper than liquid chlorine is just an added bonus. If I did not have a SWG I would not own a pool, especially in Texas.

 

[uraceulose]

Like everyone will tell you here...you'd be better off to add the SWCG. In my opinion and do the work to setup an acid dispenser. Then you really have the hands off setup you desire.

 

[PoolStored]

Summary thoughts. I've had both, started with a stenner chlorine pump and switched after a year to SWG. I wouldn't go back.

First thing to consider is placement. In TX, you will want to bury the tank. Chlorine degrades quickly in the heat:

Breakdown of Bleach Over Time by Storage Temp - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

If you can keep the tank cool, it might work fine for you.

On the SWG side, yes it is harder to justify with a small pool. Easy to justify on my 30K pool. My payback period is 3 years SWG vs. Chlorine...not to mention lugging jugs.

Consider the SJ35. Nice size for your pool and a lower price point. Assume that you run from April 15 to October 15 (183 days) and your daily FC demand is 3. Cost you around $200 a year. If you get to the second cell after 5 years, your cost drops to $110/yr.

 

[reggiehammond]

One more vote - don't be fooled, a SWCG is the only answer for Texas pools.

 

[PoolStored]

One more vote - don't be fooled, a SWCG is the only answer for Texas pools.

I generally agree for pools 15K gallons and above. For 10K and below, the payback is less clear, and pucks and water replacement can be a reasonable strategy, knowing the CYA issue.

In either case, I would definitely NOT use a puck chlorinator with a gas heater. Use a floater.

 

[reggiehammond]

I generally agree for pools 15K gallons and above. For 10K and below, the payback is less clear, and pucks and water replacement can be a reasonable strategy, knowing the CYA issue.

In either case, I would definitely NOT use a puck chlorinator with a gas heater. Use a floater.

We can have very long pool seasons in Texas... My SWCG is running right now, in February.
Why would I want to mess with pucks or liquid when this is the case?

 

[PoolStored]

Why would I want to mess with pucks or liquid when this is the case?

When you have a smaller pool volume like 10K that the OP has...

I agree with you on the convenience, but on the economics, dump and replace can be a reasonable option with a smaller pool volume.