It's supposed to put out 2.0 lbs/day at full capacity. So, oddly enough for a 40K Circupool unit it does have the highest output level. I estimated 60% was going to be about right from pool math, but you know how that goes. A pound a day is probably about right for a 14Kgal pool but we are very good about leaving the pool covered when not in use because we are still trying to warm up the water (It's about 82F in the morning and 85-86 at the end of the day now...so we are almost there) and I suspect that is where the difference might be coming from. I'll get it, but I suspect I'll have to turn it off for a day to get it down to the 4-6's where I eventually want it. I am planning on taking PTO from tomorrow to Monday, so I'll hopefully have 5 days to tweak it. I'd like to get to only doing testing 2x a week (occasionally 1x a week), with the ability to leave the pool for a week. The detached hot tub I run with very low CYA, so if I need to go for a week I can drop a tab into a floater and still be okay...once...
It's very similar even at the PC board level to the Hayward Aquarite. (I could follow most of the mainboard schematics from my pictures I took of the control panel and the Aqua Rite schematics posted here.) I was even thinking it might be fully compatible, but the cell type in the SW Display is a "F-15" and not a "T-15" so, who knows? The only advantage to it being fully compatible is aftermarket T-15 cells going for $70 less than the Circupool ones, and for that level it might not be worth it, anyway. The "DSP" board has the status LED's laid out horizontally instead of vertically, but otherwise they are the same, the software revision makes sense if you look at newer Hayward units, etc. There is even a remote LED on the Circupool though it appears that the Circupool main board lacks the RS-485 transceivers.... No big deal as all you can apparently monitor is the salt level and all you can set is on/off and percentage.
One thing that is going through my nasty little head now is somehow doing a tap off (with a high impedance opamp) of the temperature sensor and seeing if it can be fed into something like an ESP8266 so I can have the pool temperature remotely monitored. The only problem with this is that it will only work when the unit is powered up, but I can probably live with it only working during the daytime anyway (I'll retain the last reading until morning if queried.) Since the Molex connectors and mates are well known for the Hayward, and this is the same, I can literally do it without touching the unit..... Probably won't though..
