Construction started 2/3/20

[MikeFL]

I've never heard of a PB providing a TF-100, so I would plan on buying your own.

Our PB made us wait 1-2 weeks before we could get in last October. Longest week of our lives, but we were able to get 1 good weekend of swimming in before it was too cold.

Oh man that at least you had that one weekend, a little easier for us knowing that once we have the green light we can get right in!

 

[MeowMeow724]

We waited 5 months...
A whole lotta work and wait during that time!

Mike- I am happy to hear they aren't adding salt right away. That is what I learned through here-- it should not be added right away, but ours added it on startup. Our "startup" included them coming to show us how to work the system, dump a ton of salt, many gallons of muriatic acid and that's about it........and it was a week after water had been added.... then we had to figure everything else out.

I am not sure if you got the same storm as we did down your way last night, but if you did I will sure bet you're happy for that screen enclosure. Our pool was a MESS. I had to scoop out small branches and weird things, then run the robot (don't use a robot for at least a month, btw) 3 times. Skimmer was full within 20 minutes.. then had to leaf blow the entire new decking which is already stained from the fuzzy things from our neighbor's oak trees. I am envious of your screen enclosure. LOL

I saw your pics and video--- it's looking amazing! Keep em' coming!

 

[MikeFL]

We waited 5 months...
A whole lotta work and wait during that time!

Mike- I am happy to hear they aren't adding salt right away. That is what I learned through here-- it should not be added right away, but ours added it on startup. Our "startup" included them coming to show us how to work the system, dump a ton of salt, many gallons of muriatic acid and that's about it........and it was a week after water had been added.... then we had to figure everything else out.

I am not sure if you got the same storm as we did down your way last night, but if you did I will sure bet you're happy for that screen enclosure. Our pool was a MESS. I had to scoop out small branches and weird things, then run the robot (don't use a robot for at least a month, btw) 3 times. Skimmer was full within 20 minutes.. then had to leaf blow the entire new decking which is already stained from the fuzzy things from our neighbor's oak trees. I am envious of your screen enclosure. LOL

I saw your pics and video--- it's looking amazing! Keep em' coming!

Now that I am at this stage I can only imagine having to go through that mess, YUCK!! I am feeling lucky with our PB, they really came through with walking me through pump startup the day after fill (Saturday) and then coming out today to add chemicals and do most of the startup. The service manager will be out within the week to complete the start up and set up the full automation ... for now all is working from the pool panel.

I just need to get a test kit so I can monitor water chem.

 

[panic_button]

You'll get a cheap, expired Pentair test kit from them...

 

[kimkats]

You'll get a cheap, expired Pentair test kit from them...

EVEN worse!! He got guess strips!!!

 

[MikeFL]

PB told me yesterday he would upgrade me to the Taylor ... today he dropped off Taylor 2005C - not the 2006C.

I googled the difference and sinceI’m new to pool Chem I wasn’t tracking what I was reading.

Will this kit meet my needs?

 

[kimkats]

That is a good starter kit. It has the CYA which is very important. The only thing it is missing is the power FC test as seen here:
FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test The kit you have will measure the FC but only up to 5 (might be 10). It does it by color matching which can be a little hard. I hold a white plate up behind my tubes under a bright light. That helps.

IF you can get him to push it up to the 2006C you will be set with all of them. If not this one will work for the start up. You will have to buy replacement regents a little sooner as this kit does not have as much of the ones we use on a daily basis.

 

[MikeFL]

That is a good starter kit. It has the CYA which is very important. The only thing it is missing is the power FC test as seen here:
FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test The kit you have will measure the FC but only up to 5 (might be 10). It does it by color matching which can be a little hard. I hold a white plate up behind my tubes under a bright light. That helps.

IF you can get him to push it up to the 2006C you will be set with all of them. If not this one will work for the start up. You will have to buy replacement regents a little sooner as this kit does not have as much of the ones we use on a daily basis.

Thank you, next on my list is to hit up this site, Google & Youtube to learn how to use this kit.

 

[kimkats]

Here is one the company that sells the TF-100 put together: TF100TestKit
Take your time. Here are some tips
-FC-once it goes clear call it...........if you let it sit it might go pink again..............ignore it
-pH-I hold a white plate behind it with under a bright light. That helps me see the color match better.
TA-it will "flash" blue then change back. Keep going until it holds the color change.........the color are not true colors they are more 'ish as in blueish or red ish.
-CYA - don't bother testing until you KNOW some has been added. It is not in fill water.

You should test your fill water so we can help you decide what to buy to get ready for your pool fill. Post the results like this:
FC
pH
TA
CH
CYS-0 as you will not have any so do not test for it.

Kim

 

[MikeFL]

Question on Salt Water Generator size. @panic_button - you mentioned awhile back that a 20,000 gallon pool should have a IC40

Our estimated size came in at 26,500 gallons

Here is one the company that sells the TF-100 put together: TF100TestKit
Take your time. Here are some tips
-FC-once it goes clear call it...........if you let it sit it might go pink again..............ignore it
-pH-I hold a white plate behind it with under a bright light. That helps me see the color match better.
TA-it will "flash" blue then change back. Keep going until it holds the color change.........the color are not true colors they are more 'ish as in blueish or red ish.
-CYA - don't bother testing until you KNOW some has been added. It is not in fill water.

You should test your fill water so we can help you decide what to buy to get ready for your pool fill. Post the results like this:
FC
pH
TA
CH
CYS-0 as you will not have any so do not test for it.

Kim

Hi Kim, We actually filled up last Friday and our PB has been out twice to adjust and I have tested twice. So far we have added Muriatic Acid 3 different days and today they added Calcium. They will be back next week to add salt and stabilizer.

I plan to learn how to use my test kit this weekend, I'll probably go back to pinch a Penney tomorrow for a test and then by this weekend I should be ready to test daily.

 

[MikeFL]

A couple months ago I mentioned to my PB that I wanted the IC20 SWG upgraded to IC40 (Thanks to @panic_button for pointing this out). Now that we are finishing up our punch list my PB mentioned that an IC20 should be find for our size pool which is 26,500 gallons.

I did some research (this was a good TFP thread) and from what I have read I believe I should push back ... is the argument here that I will need to be running the IC20 at a very high percentage given the size of my pool?

 

[Turbo1Ton]

I did some research (this was a good TFP thread) and from what I have read I believe I should push back ... is the argument here that I will need to be running the IC20 at a very high percentage given the size of my pool?

You got it. I'm no expert but from what I have read on here over the past several months, you will likely be running 100% output 24/7 to keep up, and even then, might struggle. Not to mention that the literature for the IC-20 (https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...ower-center-manual-ic20-ic40-ic60-english.pdf) states that it is for up to 20,000gal pools. So Pentair even thinks its not a good idea.

I'd push back for sure and get an IC-40 at a minimum. With the Pentair literature stating 'up to', I think it is an easy win. I'm sure others will chime in soon.

--Jeff

 

[panic_button]

Looks like you got an iChlor30 not an Intellichlor (IC20) from your pictures. Also, you might want to recheck your pool volume, a 20' x 30' true rectangle pool that is 6' deep is 27k gallons, yours should be a little less than 19k based on free form and tanning ledge..

 

[wireform]

Mike,
What ever you determine to be the pool capacity keep in mind minimum 2X pool capacity for the SWCG sizing. If you run a 1:1 ratio you'll be beating up your SWCG and lifespan and at times possibly not even be able to produce enough chlorine with a 24/7 run time.

 

[MikeFL]

Looks like you got an iChlor30 not an Intellichlor (IC20) from your pictures. Also, you might want to recheck your pool volume, a 20' x 30' true rectangle pool that is 6' deep is 27k gallons, yours should be a little less than 19k based on free form and tanning ledge..

Nice catch and yes, I do have an iChlor30 and if I need to double the size looks like a 30 still will not cut it.

As far as pool size, my water meter didn't have a reading so I wasn't able to measure water per/post fill. My PB provided the following drawings when he gave me our size of 26,500

 

[panic_button]

I was told mine would was 25k by the sales guy, it's a tad under 19.5k based on my water meter.

 

[Turbo1Ton]

My PB estimated 13,500 and the meter said 14,500. Not certain if the PB included the spa volume in his estimate. Spa is about 600-700 gal. So could be right on, or considerably off. I'd at least get the water bill and back out the previous month's usage from that, to try and get close.

--Jeff

 

[kimkats]

We will figure our your REAL pool size with the pH testing and adjustments. I would not waste your time going to PAP. It will take you longer to drive there and back than it would be to just do the tests on your own.

-pH pool size testing and figuring-Test your pH. Use Pool Math PoolMath to see how much m. acid you need to add to get your pH down 4 points (example 7.8 down to 7.4) Let the pump run for about 30 mins then retest the pH. Did you hit your goal? If so then you know your gallons. If you went lower than your goal then you need to take 1000 gallons from your pool size. If you did not hit your goal (it was above your goal) then you need to add 100 gallons to your pool size.

Once you get closer to your goal then you add or take away 500 gallons at a time. That is usually close enough. If you want to dial it in even tighter you can. It is up to you.

Push for the biggest SWG you can. It will pay off in the long run!

Kim

 

[masterofnone48]

My pool is approx 13,000 gal and I went with the IC40. I am running it for 14 hours at about 35%.

 

[panic_button]

We will figure our your REAL pool size with the pH testing and adjustments. I would not waste your time going to PAP. It will take you longer to drive there and back than it would be to just do the tests on your own.

The formula for finding volume is absolute, and being off by almost 5000+ gallons will do more harm than good...