Check valve issues

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evanwellens

evanwellens

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Jun 9, 2012
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Stony Point, NY
For years I've had a suction side leak at the check valve. Basically the screws don't grip and hold down the cover anymore. I've band-aided with the situation with goop , and using toothpicks to allow the screws to take hold, but it leaks like crazy, just get's worse and at times wont prime. I was thinking it might be time to replace it , but as you will see from my photos that might be harder than it could be as there is no clearance to make a new connection to the filter inlet. Was hoping to get some advice on how to proceed from someone with more experience than I on how best to handle this, I'm handy and have no problem working with PVC Many thanks !!
 

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First, why is there a check valve on the suction side? Very rarely is that needed.

You most likely will have to rework your plumbing. But a wider shot of your suction plumbing will help those members with plumbing experience.
 
Evan,

Why do you even have a check valve in front of your pump? They are just not needed in most cases..

Is your pool way, way below your equipment pad?

Assuming that you have to rip it out and replumb, one thing that you can try first, is to fix the screw holes.. Sometimes this works, and sometimes it does not.. Take off the lid and set it aside. Then using two-part slow-setting epoxy, fill all the screws holes, and then before the epoxy sets up, dip the screw threads into Vaseline and screw them into the holes.. Let dry overnight. In theory, the screws should back right out.. Clean up the lid area and make sure to replace the o-ring or seal. Install the lid and make sure not to torque the screws to 100 foot lbs.. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I see them fairly frequently on pools in my area. It is about the volume of suction side pipe above water vs the volume of the pump housing and basket. If pipe volume exceeds pump volume, you can't catch prime from a single fill of the pump. With no check valve, you loose whatever lift you have already managed to get when you re-open the pump to fill it. The farther away the check valve is, the more pipe you are effectively turning into pump volume. It is a priming assist, and is not uncommon for pools with equipment and pipes significantly above water level.
 
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Wow.... This was certainly an education.. I don't know how to quantify way below, but there is a small hill and it's an inground pool.
Jimrahbe said:
Evan,

Why do you even have a check valve in front of your pump? They are just not needed in most cases..

Is your pool way, way below your equipment pad?

Assuming that you have to rip it out and replumb, one thing that you can try first, is to fix the screw holes.. Sometimes this works, and sometimes it does not.. Take off the lid and set it aside. Then using two-part slow-setting epoxy, fill all the screws holes, and then before the epoxy sets up, dip the screw threads into Vaseline and screw them into the holes.. Let dry overnight. In theory, the screws should back right out.. Clean up the lid area and make sure to replace the o-ring or seal. Install the lid and make sure not to torque the screws to 100 foot lbs.. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Very cleaver idea with the epoxy... I'll have to try that out.
 
mknauss said:
First, why is there a check valve on the suction side? Very rarely is that needed.

You most likely will have to rework your plumbing. But a wider shot of your suction plumbing will help those members with plumbing experience.
Click to expand...
That was the original plan. Although PVC is so easy to work with , this pool is older and it never fails simple things like this go way out of scope. Attached is a better shot of the system . It includes a waterfall pump ( further from the filter and the subject of my next dilema ;-) ) .
 

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Oops,,

I know what I meant and that was not it..

What I thought I said was when the pump is way above the pool level.. Sucking up hill is a lot harder than letting the water flow down hill..

I should learn to read my own posts... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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So this is the part hayward reccomended

Amazon.com: Hayward SPX4000UNPAK1 2-Inch Union Connector Replacement Kit for Select Hayward Northstar, Ecostar and Tristar Pump : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com: Hayward SPX4000UNPAK1 2-Inch Union Connector Replacement Kit for Select Hayward Northstar, Ecostar and Tristar Pump : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com
to connect out of the pump since I assume the check valve is too close to use a Union
Then I was going to get something like

Amazon.com : Hayward PSCV2S2DGR PVC Check Valve, Dark Gray : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Hayward PSCV2S2DGR PVC Check Valve, Dark Gray : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com

But I was concerned that the dimensions were 2 X 2 1/2" and I'm 2 " on both sides of the check. So I was wondering if there is something I'm lacking in understanding.. There seem to be several choices and I was hoping not to cut everything up and find out I got the wrong part or that there was a simpler solution.
 
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