Changing sand in Hayward filter question

You have a union at the pump and at the heater that you can undo and then the multiport can lift off.

Just support the pipes so that they don't rotate and break the seal.

If you have more than 15 to 20 gpm per square foot of surface area during backwash, you can lose sand during backwash and you eventually need to add some back to normal levels.

Replacing sand is rarely necessary.

Most of the time that people want to replace the sand, it's to address an issue that has nothing to do with the sand.

If you are getting sand back through the return, then you might have a broken lateral.

What speed do you run the pump?

The pump has been running in the 2500 RPM range..

My multiple port was changed about a year or two ago... I think 2021... so that valve should be good, no? Maybe it is the laterals in which case, as someone pointed out, sand will need to be replaced? correct? Anyhow, I posted other info regarding a heater drain plug above.
 
If the pump is off and the water is still cloudy, you likey have algae.

If possible, turn the pump on to mix the water for 30-60 minutes and grab a water sample to test.
Alternately, brush the entire pool (will help mix the water) and grab a water sample to test.

Sand from the filter will settle out pretty quickly.

If you install unions, do NOT tighten them with a strap wrench. Lube the union O-ring and hand tighten only.

What test kit are you using?
Test Kits Compared
 
If the pump is off and the water is still cloudy, you likey have algae.

If possible, turn the pump on to mix the water for 30-60 minutes and grab a water sample to test.
Alternately, brush the entire pool (will help mix the water) and grab a water sample to test.

Sand from the filter will settle out pretty quickly.

If you install unions, do NOT tighten them with a strap wrench. Lube the union O-ring and hand tighten only.

What test kit are you using?
Test Kits Compared
I use my LPS for tests. They are reputable and reliable.
 
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I use my LPS for tests. They are reputable and reliable.

That's the funniest thing I've heard today.
:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :laughblue: :laughblue: :laughblue: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Reputable is highly suspect. However, they are reliable at selling you all kinds of magic potions you don't need or want to put in your pool..

They are probably 75% of the reason people from North America wind up at TFP.
You would be much better served to acquire a Taylor-2006C locally. You could also have a TF-100 or TF-Pro drop shipped near the US/Canada border and then drive across to pick it up.
Either way, your own testing is much more accurate, consistent and repeatable than any pool store.
 
That's the funniest thing I've heard today.
:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :laughblue: :laughblue: :laughblue: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Reputable is highly suspect. However, they are reliable at selling you all kinds of magic potions you don't need or want to put in your pool..

They are probably 75% of the reason people from North America wind up at TFP.
You would be much better served to acquire a Taylor-2006C locally. You could also have a TF-100 or TF-Pro drop shipped near the US/Canada border and then drive across to pick it up.
Either way, your own testing is much more accurate, consistent and repeatable than any pool store.

In 8 or 9 years of pool ownership, other that the suction issues (which is mechanical), I've had excellent water quality... In fact, Pioneer Pools (the company I've dealt with) has often tested my water and the results came back whereby nothing was required to be added. I've often walked out of there without buying a single thing. Maybe the regulations regarding this stuff are different here.. maybe not. But I don't go there and come home with trunk full of product. I also don't test often - I've used strips at home for the most part. Like I said, my water quality has almost always been crystal clear. Perhaps I am going about this the wrong way.
 
There are a few Pool Stores who do testing the right way and maybe yours is one of them. We cannot judge that from afar and thus don’t rely on them and require tests from your own test kit for pool water chemistry advice.
 
My problem now is mechanical, once again. I don't think this has to do with the chemical composition of my water. The water suction into my pump is once again causing me headaches. Spent all of last year and a good part of 2021 trying to figure out why my pump was sucking. Thought I solved that now I have low water suction again! Maybe it is the laterals; emptying out that filter seems like ,my option right now, unfortunately.
 
Those of you following my previous thread (Changing sand in a Hayward filter) may recall that I also noted other troubling signs that are most likely unrelated to the filter. So my system really went down hill over the past few days. The videos will tell the picture better than I can, but basically, the suction is very poor and I am stuck with being unable to get this pool useable for the season - this is after spending a lot of money last year to fix a leak in a line. That leak was underground (but fortunately not hard to get to. I've had terrible "luck" with this pool the past two seasons and it's been incredibly discouraging. Enough to almost regret buying a house with an aground pool!

I don't know if this is a clog in the line or a new leak. Take a look at the videos and pics to get a sense of what I am talking about.

Here is the pump pad area and but the videos of the pump in operation won't upload (btw, the pump isn't the problem. It was test last summer and the technician said it was in excellent shape):
 

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When I turn the system on, the flow/suction is pretty good - not great but it filters. Within a few hours it really slows.. within 12 to 18 hours it's struggling to remain primed.. how do I attach videos here?
 

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When I turn the system on, the flow/suction is pretty good - not great but it filters. Within a few hours it really slows.. within 12 to 18 hours it's struggling to remain primed..

Sounds like you have algae clogging your filter.

Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
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I also have a pic of water stains at the pressure gauge. I tightened it down so water stopped trickling out:

Don't overtighten it or you can strip the threads on the filter.

Put a wrap or two of Teflon tape on the threads to prevent leaking.
 
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Do you mean the white plumber tape?
If that is what you call it up there...

 
How do you test your water? How do you chlorinate?

Filter issues are typically chemistry problems - or it simply needs a deep cleaning. Without knowing more of what you’ve done, what you add, etc, it’s hard to help. Ever used flocullant? Other magic pool store potions?

What happens if heater is in bypass? Any difference?
 

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