Brand new to pools not chemistry :)

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Davejavu said:
Well that's promising...With all you are doing to get this pool up and running, at least you are finally getting wet :D
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Oh you are SO bad! hehe I love it!

Your pool has come SO far already. Go back and look at your first picture! WOW!

You are not done until you can see the head of the screws on the main drain. YES it WILL get that clear! Some people throw a coin in the deep end to see if they can read heads/tails their pool is that clear! YOURS will be too when we get done with it!

Kim:cat:
 
Levels:

FC=10
TC=10
CC=0
pH=7.2
TA=50
CH=160

Salt=3000

I'll add 7.5 lbs of 8.4 CYA and 35 lbs of 73 lbs CaCl2 and check. Once that has circulated a while I'll check in on all the levels again and see where I am. My SWG recommends 2600-3200 ppm salt so should I bump it up any. At what point will I adjust the pH and TA?

Thanks
Jared
 
WOW what an awesome job you have done!

Your SWG will tell you what it wants. If it says low, add some salt. Each one is different.

Keep an eye on your PH. See what it does----------stay where it is at or swing up or down wildly? If it stays happy where it is at you do not need to adjust PH or TA. IF it swings then you can adjust your TA up to help hold it stable.

Know PH is affected by aeration-cannon balls, HEAVY rain, returns pointed up and rolling the water, waterfalls or the water coming in off of the slide, etc. BUT once you find it's happy spot all will be good.

Kim:cat:
 
7cffa46a49b7d6aa802d5ef6706e7745.jpg


97f551fb1bbc0b2db4ac44505c3c62da.jpg


I could see the dime from where I took the picture in my usual spot. It's shaded
so the phone camera has a hard time reproducing. should have gotten out the actual camera.

Current levels

FC=10
TC=10
CC=10
pH=7.2
TA=50
CH=225
CYA=60-70

Should I add a little more CYA or do we just round it as mentioned earlier? I also went ahead and turned on the SWG to 50% just to see what it would do. I have been periodically going and brushing the bottom of the deep end where the CYA and CaCl2 went so I could see additional jumps but I think everything is mostly dissolved.

Jared
 
I tried to get a salt reading and couldnt really get anything figured the strips were busted as the SWG read 2900. Turned it on and went to bed, this morning I went by and it said low salt and check cell. Salt was reading 800 ppm on the screen so I now know how to check the instant reading and how to use the strips. I dumped a couple bags in and had to go to work. Tonight I'll check it again and pull the cell and look at it to see if it needs any attention. Hope I can get one season out of it :). I went ahead and dumped in half a gallon of bleach to make up for no chlorine generated. Will post status later.

Thanks for the comments, I am going to get this done one way or another haha.

Jared
 

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numbers are in

FC 10
TC 10
cc 0
ph 7.2
ta 50
CH 325
cya low 60
salt 950 per strip

added 5 bags salt and wasn't sure how to proceed when taking off the cell so I am going to find the manual. Off to buy salt I'll start with 5 more bags even though pool math calls for 10 more.

Jared


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I finally have enough salt 16 bags later. On initial try swg worked so will see tomorrow night. FC was already 15 so I'll let that ride and tomorrow evening turn swg to 50% and gauge need. Water is crystal clear now so it looks like I am nearing first year completion. I will need a strap wrench to remove cell so couldn't check that, another day another tool!

Jared

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I plan on jumping in tomorrow night after work! SWG data will be gathered and should be able to use the pool all day Saturday. Bummed about the light as fixtures are pricey but everything else works so that's pretty sweet. This has been a ton of work but now that I can see the end in sight and I know everything I need to know to move forward with zero incidents.

Kim I haven't messed with the cover anymore but if I can get the pump to hold oil it may still work if not that'll be the first thing to replace. At this point I dont really want to put anymore money in it as I am still doing a few things on the inside of the house. I'll probably target next year to fix that and the pool light. I do plan on buying the oil for it to see if that is the only problem but I have my doubts about that since it doesn't make sense for oil to vanish.

There is still the deck drain to contend with and I havent decided if I want to buy a pipe cleaner and do it or pay a plumber. a pipe cleaner for that would run about $200, not sure if the hose attachment would work but it might get tried sometime soon. The drain still kinda works so I put it towards the back of the list.

I also think my volume isn't 33k as I have not had to add the full amount of anything listed from pool math. Since I was always conservative with additions I didn't go high on anything but the only thing that took almost full amounts was CYA. I will verify that shortly.

Jared
 
rahimlee54 said:
Bummed about the light as fixtures are pricey
Click to expand...

At this point, don't assume you need an entire fixture ($$). I went through this last year, and ended up putting a $60 screw-in LED pool bulb in the existing fixture. If you can verify your voltage (12V vs 120V) and can verify that it's "hot" at the socket, you may be able to get away with just replacing the bulb.

Here's the one I bought, they have both voltages available.
Halco 80136 - LED - 18W - R40 - 6500K Full Spectrum
 
I checked the socket and it produced no voltage based on the way the guy on youtube taught me. I also put a CFL bulb in there and made sure it didnt light. I flipped every switch I could find and I am pretty sure I rewired it into the GFCI I replaced, still not sure what that powers. When I can hop in I am going to tug the line and have them see if that GFCI is connected to it which is why you see it laying on the side of the pool still in all the photos.

Jared
 

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