Black Algae Nightmare

Jul 4, 2024
9
Griffin, GA
Hello all: I purchased this home with an unground pool about a month ago. It had black staining along the walls and floors of the deep end which I now believe to be black algae. The pool is an unground Gunnite Pool. I have done the following: Scrubbed twice daily with a metal brush. Treated with Black Algae killer from Leslies Pools and Black Algae Killer from in the swim active ingredient (copper sulphate pentahydrate 11.8%). SLAM shock chlorination and additional scrubbing. 1.5 gallons of Muriatic Acid followed by additional scrubbing. The areas are lightening and disappearing in places however some has now settled on the floor which is extremely difficult to get at since the pool is about 8-9 foot deep. I did all this in preparation for adding a stain removal kit but am unable to do so due to the high levels of phosphates that are now in the water. I am at my whits end trying to get rid of this stuff. After the last SLAM shock my numbers from Leslies were free chlorine 13.48; total chlorine 13.48 PH 6.8; alkalinity 9; calcium hardness 342; cyanotic acid 85; iron 0; copper .4; phosphates 1965; TDS 500; after adding the chlorine reducer and phosphate reducer six hours later my levels were free chlorine 6.16; total chlorine 6.89; PH 6.8; alkalinity 5; calcium hardness 291; cyanic acid 85; iron .1 copper .2 phosphates 1777; TDS 500. I have added photos below to show where I started and where I am now. The first three are where I started and the last three are where I am now - the staining looks deeper (darker) depending on lighting. I believe the stains are getting better but this is very slow going for an almost 60 year old woman and a two inch scrub brush.
 

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To test for black algae, try to scrape a bit of the substance with your fingernail. Wipe it on a paper towel or white piece of paper. If it smears green, its BA.
 
You should be able to scrape BA off the wall. Try a wood/bamboo skewer or something similar.

Take a look at the article below...

If not BA, take a look at the article below. Try the dry acid method in a sock to diagnose copper.
What type of filter do you have. If copper, the filter grids may be bluish colored.

I have not heard copper described as waxy.

If @JamesW or @ajw22 are around, they may be able to provide some guidance.

 
Besides the most recent algaecide you purchased from Leslie's, what other copper products have you used? Any other algaecides, mineral systems, or Pool RX?
 
This is probably black algae, which can look a lot like black copper stains.

Sometimes you can get black algae and black copper stains, which makes diagnosis more difficult.

Black algae is often treated with copper algaecide, so they can both be a problem at the same time.

In this picture, the turquoise and gray are probably copper and the black is probably black algae.

Black algae tends to grow in pits, whereas copper stains are more widespread with no particular focus points.

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Besides the most recent algaecide you purchased from Leslie's, what other copper products have you used? Any other algaecides, mineral systems, or Pool RX?
No other copper products used. I tried testing the stains with a tricolor puck and with a vitamin c tablet neither one seemed to move them. Honestly the best I have ever seen them at least budge was after doing the muriatic acid. The filter is a regular Haywood sand filter.
 

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Most likely, a treatment of Jack's #2 and/or a zero TA treatment will be necessary to remove the stains followed by a drain and refill if it is safe to drain.

Do not drain without making sure that it is safe to do so.

The treatments might not work and it might even cause damage and make things worse.

The processes have big risks and you need to do extensive research before deciding what options are available and what the costs, benefits, risks etc. are.

 
You can probably do the treatments and then do a lot of dilution.

The treatments are very aggressive and not recommended unless it is absolutely necessary.

The surface will be etched and the life of the plaster will be reduced.
 
Replaster is an option.

It is expensive to replaster.

Have you gotten quotes for a full chipout and replaster?

With the stains, there are no easy answers.

The stains are probably just cosmetic.

Some people won’t care about the appearance and some people will want to trade plaster life for a better cosmetic appearance.

I am just trying to give you enough information to make an informed decision.
 
Any treatment that can remove copper stains will attack the plaster and any metals.

It is a tradeoff of appearance vs. plaster life.

The plaster will get etched and noticeably rougher.

Metals like lights, handrails, heaters etc. can also be damaged.

Plaster life might be reduced by 1 to 20 years depending on how aggressive the treatment is.
 

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