Bad concrete & coping job?

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Not sure what a tile job is going to do to correct the coping. That white strip goes over the top/face of the tiles to cover the joint between the coping and the tile. I have one on mine, except it is grey. As far as I know, it is built into the coping forms and gets left behind after the pour.

You've got to be happy with the end result, as Dirk and others have stated. If a tile job will make you happy, and you can live with it, then go for it. I wouldn't be happy at all with that. Not sure if the PB is thinking the tile job might detract from the poor finish on the coping, or what?

--Jeff
 
Dirk said:
On another tack: I think I understand what you are describing about that 90 degree strip. It's hard to tell from the pic's, but it looks like the deck stops right where that strip does. So if you add tile, along with the associated layer of adhesive behind it, will the face of the tile and the edge of the white strip and the face of the deck all be inline? Here's why I ask. That's not going to look all that great, and maybe not work all that well. The deck is supposed to overhang over the side of the pool, including the tile, for two reasons (there might be more?). (1) to hide the top of the tile and that white strip, and (2) to act as a splash guard to keep the water in the pool. My overhang is only about an 1-1/2" but it is very effective at keeping the water in the pool when folks are jumping in and splashing around. Even one of my cannon balls doesn't push much if any water out of the pool. But if you don't have an overhang, or not enough of one, then those waves are going to end up on your deck. Which is not great for concrete and will waste a lot of water, and could affect whatever landscaping the water might run off into! I'm not sure you have enough of an edge even without tile.
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This is my question as well. As I noted up-thread, the cantilever coping forms are placed such that the coping overhangs the deck by a certain distance. In fact when we ran out of money on our original build I cut the tile from the project thinking I could do it myself later. I thought I could ask the concrete guys to give a little more distance on the cantilever so I could tile later on. They told me that was a no-go since the forms needed to fit tight against the inner surface of the shell - be it tile or the shell itself. Tile sitting flush with, or proud of the coping will look awful.
 
Hello everyone,
Looking to install tile in our curved-wall fiberglass pool to “coverup” a poor quality of install on the decking.

How deep do your tiles go? Is it just taste? The sheets we’re looking at are 12”x12”. I thought it would look good to go down the full 12”, but maybe that’s not what people do?

Also, we have 96 feet of pool, so I’m estimating $2k for nice tile at about $17/sheet (+10% cushion) to go down 12”, $500 for grout/caulk, and $720 for 3 day install by one very experienced (and well paid tile installer). Total $3,220. Am I way off?

Thank you!
 
We have 2"x2" tile. One full line of tile plus half of the next line is below the water line. So about 3".

I highly recommend using a silicone based grout. Novagard makes a good product. The installers will complain as it is more difficult to use than basic cement based grout.
 
Isn't most edge tile about 6"? Mine is. You could cut those sheets in half, cut the material cost in half, then send me half of the savings for the suggestion. You'd still come out ahead! ;)
 
mknauss said:
With a freeform pool, 6" tile does not work well.
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Sorry, I didn't write that well. I meant the total height of the edge tiling, not the use of 6" x 6" tile. So three 2" tiles (6" total height), not six 2" tiles (for a 12" height). Couldn't he cut the 12" sheets in half (or buy it that way) to halve his material cost?
 
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