Probably a bad display board.I went to the diagnostic screen that shows the percentage and I am not getting the full sweep of the range, it goes from around 24% to 80% with a big dead zone at 67-68%.
Probably a bad display board.I went to the diagnostic screen that shows the percentage and I am not getting the full sweep of the range, it goes from around 24% to 80% with a big dead zone at 67-68%.
Gotcha. I have cranked it up to an indicated 100% on auto at this time, although if the diagnostic percentage display is correct, my actual rheostat range is about 24% to 80%.See edit above![]()
Ok, I see the display PCB also houses the rheostat, so that might fix my issue. Thanks so much for posting up the video and the link JamesW!Hayward Aquarite Goldline Display Board - GLX-PCB-DSP - INYOPools.com
AquaRite Display PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-DSPwww.inyopools.com
https://www.polytecpools.com/Hayward-AquaRite-Replacement-Display-PCB-Board_p_6712.html
I have a TF-100 on the way, but I wanted to get a ballpark as soon as possible and this was my solution.We do not advise on water chemistry based on test strip tests. They are too inaccurate.
Get the Taylor K2006c or TFT Test Kits if you want to follow TFP methods and advice.
Test Kits Compared
You should do nothing except add liquid chlorine to your pool daily until you get your test kit.I have a TF-100 on the way, but I wanted to get a ballpark as soon as possible and this was my solution.
Will do.You should do nothing except add liquid chlorine to your pool daily until you get your test kit.
PH readings are inaccurate when using drop color matching test.Will do.
pH readings being inaccurate due to high FC, would that also be the case if you were using an electronic pH meter? I have access to Hanna and Apera units that I could use.