Any Advice Before Install

jkhamr

Gold Supporter
Aug 12, 2022
119
Lincoln, NE
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hi All,
1st time pool builder and thought I'd put this out there to see what advice might be given for the equipment layout. I've read that it's a good idea to have a pressure gauge before and after the pump, any advice on type or brand of gauge would also be welcome.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome to TFP.

We do not recommend UV or Ozone. An outdoor pool gets all the UV it needs.

Will you have an autocover?

Pressure gauges around the pump are not necessary. Your filter will have a PSI gauge.


 
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Add a bypass to your heater. Just need a three-way diverter and a check valve.


Delete the auto chlorinator.

Use three-way diverter valves on the suction and pressure sides so it's impossible to deadhead your pump.
 
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Welcome to TFP.

We do not recommend UV or Ozone. An outdoor pool gets all the UV it needs.

Will you have an autocover?

Pressure gauges around the pump are not necessary. Your filter will have a PSI gauge.


Thanks for the great info ajw22, being at the bottom of the pool owner learning curve I completed dozens of hours of research prior to purchasing my pool kit. Most of the uv and ozone information that I found indicated that this equipment would lessen my chlorine usage, apparently most of the info comes from the equipment sales department. Anyway, I have the equipment already so I'll go ahead and install it, I have it set up to bypass, I'll conduct my own experiments to see if there is a benefit.

I do not have an autocover, as a building designer of 36 years, I can't stand the asthetics of it, that's one of those things where form out weighs function (for me). I do have a full winter cover, but do not have a solar cover.
 
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Add a bypass to your heater. Just need a three-way diverter and a check valve.


Delete the auto chlorinator.

Use three-way diverter valves on the suction and pressure sides so it's impossible to deadhead your pump.
Thanks pjt, great idea to add add a bypass for the heater.

Do the diverter valves i have shown coming in from the skimmers and pool drains and the diverter going to the pool discharge serve the same purpose as your suggestion for diverter valves on the suction and pressure sides?
 
Do the diverter valves i have shown coming in from the skimmers and pool drains and the diverter going to the pool discharge serve the same purpose as your suggestion for diverter valves on the suction and pressure sides?
No. You have two-way diverters depicted. If those valves were all closed (on either the suction or pressure side) you'd deadhead the pump. Three-way diverter valves would make deadheading the pump impossible.
 
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Hi All,
1st time pool builder and thought I'd put this out there to see what advice might be given for the equipment layout. I've read that it's a good idea to have a pressure gauge before and after the pump, any advice on type or brand of gauge would also be welcome.
Thanks in advance.
If you're interested, the filter pressure gauge would be sufficient on the output, but you would need a vacuum gauge, preferably installed in the drain port of the pump basket, in front of the pump. There is no pressure in the suction line.
 
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Why wouldn't you put the SWCG before the 3-way diverter valve that feeds the deck jets and returns?
Do you have a reason that you would ?

It wouldn't hurt to do it like yours, but it doesn't help either. When in use, the water already has residual chlorine in it going down the deck jet leg. Whoever built yours likely thought the only way to sterilize that leg was with 'superchlorinated' water from the SWG.

We, on the other hand, know that the SWG is really only topping off the chlorine that's already present. If that leg gets shut off for an extended time, it's getting stagnant either way.
 
Do you have a reason that you would ?

It wouldn't hurt to do it like yours, but it doesn't help either. When in use, the water already has residual chlorine in it going down the deck jet leg. Whoever built yours likely thought the only way to sterilize that leg was with 'superchlorinated' water from the SWG.

We, on the other hand, know that the SWG is really only topping off the chlorine that's already present. If that leg gets shut off for an extended time, it's getting stagnant either way.

There are times that we only have the fountains running with the other return closed off, especially when the heater is on as people (my wife) like to site under the pouring water. I would like the SWCG to still be producing Chlorine when that is the case as it can be in that state for several hours.

I thought maybe your design had something to do with the aeration/cavitation from the jets causing the chlorine to off gas faster.
 
Another nitpick per your request sir, your diagram shows sweeps instead of 90s.

If this is your intention, just make sure they aren't DWV sweeps. We see this from time to time.

You'll need to source proper Sched-40 sweeps and you won't find them at bigbox stores.
 
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No. You have two-way diverters depicted. If those valves were all closed (on either the suction or pressure side) you'd deadhead the pump. Three-way diverter valves would make deadheading the pump impossible.
Thanks, I realized that I misspoke after I sent the reply, those are indeed just shut off valves.
 

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