Not sure, pool and spa heating working perfectly fine since I did this Jan 14, 2020. Never replaced the board. Do you know?What does the relay control?
This is not safe and it is not something anyone should do.Used an alligator clip to manually close the contacts on the relay. pool/spa heater has worked ever since.
It’s similar to jumpering a gfci breaker because it keeps tripping.For me, though, heater works perfectly fine and has since I did this.
That power relay is different in rev 14. Need to make out part numbers on originals photo before it had its top removed.K,
Thanks so much for the follow up. At least we do know the diagnosis of a bad board was correct and it makes sense the relay is more likely to fail than the other parts on the board. I'll add my concerns about the safety of this. One function of this board is to shut down the heater if anything is going wrong to prevent fire and even explosion. If you are going to run it like this please consider testing each of the safety devices in failure mode to be sure the heater shuts off. Another option would be to replace the relay with an identical part (less than $2 at Mouser) and then do the safety check. Of course as James indicates board replacement is the safest option and still saves you a LOT. This is definitely what I would do.
I hope this is helpful.
Chris
Just found out that you have to replace the old five button membrane pad with the new six button membrane pad when replacing with new control board.Ok guys. Replaced the board with this one: Amazon.com : Pentair 42002-0007S Control Board Kit Replacement NA and LP Series Pool/Spa Heater Electrical Systems : Swimming Training Equipment : Garden & Outdoor
Did not work. Board lights up for a few seconds then shuts off.
Any ideas?
I believe if he had a blower failure, the gas valve and ignitor would still fire.What does the relay control?
First step to the heater firing-blower starting. The control system logic requires air flow to be sensed before anything else happens.I believe if he had a blower failure, the gas valve and ignitor would still fire.
This can be verified by disconnecting the air pressure switch and start the heater.
Maybe if he had a filter pump failure, the heater would continue to fire.
This can be verified by disconnecting the wires connected to water pressure switch and see if heater fires.
Maybe if he had a thermal regulator fail closed, causing low flow and overheating heaters tubing heater would still fire.
this can be verified by disconnecting the wires connected to high limit thermostat. Same with ags .
The control logic is a little "smarter" than you're giving it credit for:I believe if he had a blower failure, the gas valve and ignitor would still fire.
This can be verified by disconnecting the air pressure switch and start the heater.
Maybe if he had a filter pump failure, the heater would continue to fire.
This can be verified by disconnecting the wires connected to water pressure switch and see if heater fires.
Maybe if he had a thermal regulator fail closed, causing low flow and overheating heaters tubing heater would still fire.
this can be verified by disconnecting the wires connected to high limit thermostat. Same with ags .
But he forced the contacts closed on the power relay output that tells the fenwal that all sensors are good to fire up heater. So, no, there is no control logic anymore.The control logic is a little "smarter" than you're giving it credit for:
- Blower failure would stop the ignition sequence. The control logic looks for actual air flow for a period of time (15 sec I believe) before igniter and gas valve get power.
- Disconnecting the air pressure switch stops the ignition cycle from progressing.
- Pump failure would trigger the low flow switch on the heater and keep the heater from firing.
- Disconnecting high limit also stops the heater from firing. You can bypass this sensor momentarily to trouble shoot but disconnecting it won't work.