Care to link me to their store? Cannot locate. I was kinda assuming Amazon Services Inc is on Amazon?I have purchased the control board for my Jandy heater from Amazon Services Inc at a substantial savings compared to pool stores. They honor a 30 day return and the part was sealed in original static protective packaging and it worked perfectly. I'd buy from them again. There are of different store fronts on Amazon so be sure you check the name of the store front.
K,Care to link me to their store? Cannot locate. I was kinda assuming Amazon Services Inc is on Amazon?
Your link doesn' t seem to work, I bought the last one from(through) Amazon. Just returned it.K,
Yep, Amazon is correct. Not sure exactly what the entity really is but I think it's just Amazon themselves. Seems they come up for some parts and storefronts come up for others. Here's the link to the item... maybe they just don't sell your board? Another place I used was parts4heating.com. They probably have the part and are an authorized distributor for most direct manufacturers. The main reason I had to revert to Amazon on certain parts was to get the 30 day return. Most distributors won't take returns for a part unless it is covered under warranty by the manufacturer. Jandy offers zero for internet sales so there is no way for a DIY to even get defective parts replaced. Fortunately you don't have this issue with Pentair so I wouldn't mess with a potentially less expert supplier. If I was in your situation I'd go to Inyopools or parts4heating
I hope this helps.
Yep, sorry. That's the link of my transaction but I couldn't get it to open any other way than to Google my part number and then select the Amazon link from the search results. If Amazon Services LLC does not come up for your part number then they must not sell it. You can probably get it cheaper from bestpoolshop.com store front in Amazon and get the Amazon 30 day return. I consider parts4heating.com more reliable because Fenwal tech support told me they are an aurthorized dealer for Fenwal. I found bestpoolshop to be very reliable but they are a very low overhead operation. Only way to contact them is email and shipping notifications I got from them were a little confusing. At first I was frustrated with nobody to call but they responded within hours of my email even though it was sent late Friday night well after hours. In exchange for their low overhead operation I got quality parts at the best price. At the end of the day this is all about personal decisions each of us need to make that are right for each of us about risk of quality Vs price until we have experience and get more comfortable.Your link doesn' t seem to work, I bought the last one from(through) Amazon. Just returned it.
Inyo is pretty high.
So, Now im back to square one. Afraid to order another board from another company that *MAY or MAY NOT take it back if it doesn't work. Anyone have a board that I can rent from you and toss in for testing purposes?I initially started with emailing in my orig thread here, with some small modifications
Pentair's first reply:
Since it fires and then errors out that could be a number of things, but first thing to try is the thermal regulator. There is that threaded cap in between the inlet/outlet lines on the heater, with power and water flow off you take this cap off and remove the large spring and thermostat head inside there. Then close it up and turn on power and try to run the heater and see if anything changes.
Did you happen to to read my email completely? It's not erroring out, just turning the heat off.
In my email I mentioned that I already checked and replaced the thermal regulator you are asking me to check.
I said to remove the regulator and try running without it for testing purposes only, if the unit starts, fires and still turns off then check to see what Diagnostic LED is showing on the back of board if any.
I will do that and report back on Friday when I return. One thing, I did remove the entire header prior to check the bypass valve and it' was all OK. This heater is only 5 years old or so
For sure, yes if it still fires briefly and goes to service Heater LED coming on it depends on the LED on board at that point. If it still gives AGS, turn power off and remove the two red wires from AGS switch and jump them together. Then turn heater back on and see what it does as well.
Ok back from trip.
- Removed the large spring and thermostat head inside the header. reinstalled cap.
- Tested heater
- Same problem as this video: https://youtu.be/bu4v_HDQCbA. Turns on for 15 secs or so, then shuts off with service light on and AGS LED on.
- Jumped AGS wires, same problem.
So with the regulator removed and AGS red wires jumped together, the heater shuts down and still gives AGS on board?
Also, I forgot to mention that 2 weeks ago, I replaced the control board once from a company on Amazon. See my pics and this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCZjBOTD5sQ
When I hooked it up, NOTHING worked. didn't even fire up. Can you look at the video and LMK what you think about that board? Is it counterfeit or genuine Pentair board? Wonder why it wouldn't work. I returned it to the vendor and it's pending refund. LMK thanks
That would have to be either one of the two AGS wires is bad or something wrong with your control board. If the wires are jumped out it should not be able to error out with that safety even if overheating.
Doesn't seem as if you are reading my entire emails. In my last email I said that I returned the board to the vendor. Can you answer the the other questions on whether or not it looks fake or counterfeit? I'm afraid to order another one. thx
I have never seen a board that fits in our heater that was not built or made by Pentair, if you are ordering 42002-0007s that is the only control board part number for our heaters. Online it is impossible to say what you are getting, if you want to get a board from a local company the link below can help find them near you. Based on your video the board looks like ours, not sure if that build up on it is just the sprayed on sealant or not.
Pool and Spa Equipment
I did a few thingsK,
This is tough and I'm sure it's frustrating. I was at about the same frustration level with my Jandy about a month ago. I followed the trouble shooting guide carefully a couple of times. Then ran down leads from experts. I had replaced all the major components (totally fried in a lightning strike). When all the straight-forward testing does not work you have to look for the weird stuff. Every single test and symptom indicated no flame rectification signal and must be a bad module (I had just replaced with new from parts4heating). Even got an additional replacement with no change. Turned out the lightning strike had damaged the power supply wires that in turn caused a leak to ground that interfered with the flame rectification signal. Small leak that didn't affect heater performance in any way except it created a signal that blocked detection of the micro amp flame rectification.
My point in this is you may need to step back and think about what could cause the problem? I still get down to 2 things:
Experts on here may be able to thing of some other very low chance things to check out before you order the new board.
- Wires to the AGS. Try completely replacing them with the current wires removed from their connection at the other end. Then short them to see if the AGS light goes out.
- If that doesn't work order another new board from a reputable supplier.
Hang in there!