Another.....Mastertemp 400 with AGS LED + Service Heater LED

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I have purchased the control board for my Jandy heater from Amazon Services Inc at a substantial savings compared to pool stores. They honor a 30 day return and the part was sealed in original static protective packaging and it worked perfectly. I'd buy from them again. There are of different store fronts on Amazon so be sure you check the name of the store front.

Chris
 
setsailsoon said:
I have purchased the control board for my Jandy heater from Amazon Services Inc at a substantial savings compared to pool stores. They honor a 30 day return and the part was sealed in original static protective packaging and it worked perfectly. I'd buy from them again. There are of different store fronts on Amazon so be sure you check the name of the store front.

Chris
Click to expand...
Care to link me to their store? Cannot locate. I was kinda assuming Amazon Services Inc is on Amazon?

Thanks
 
Kihon said:
Care to link me to their store? Cannot locate. I was kinda assuming Amazon Services Inc is on Amazon?

Thanks
Click to expand...

K,
Yep, Amazon is correct. Not sure exactly what the entity really is but I think it's just Amazon themselves. Seems they come up for some parts and storefronts come up for others. Here's the link to the item... maybe they just don't sell your board? Another place I used was parts4heating.com. They probably have the part and are an authorized distributor for most direct manufacturers. The main reason I had to revert to Amazon on certain parts was to get the 30 day return. Most distributors won't take returns for a part unless it is covered under warranty by the manufacturer. Jandy offers zero for internet sales so there is no way for a DIY to even get defective parts replaced. Fortunately you don't have this issue with Pentair so I wouldn't mess with a potentially less expert supplier. If I was in your situation I'd go to Inyopools or parts4heating

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
setsailsoon said:
K,
Yep, Amazon is correct. Not sure exactly what the entity really is but I think it's just Amazon themselves. Seems they come up for some parts and storefronts come up for others. Here's the link to the item... maybe they just don't sell your board? Another place I used was parts4heating.com. They probably have the part and are an authorized distributor for most direct manufacturers. The main reason I had to revert to Amazon on certain parts was to get the 30 day return. Most distributors won't take returns for a part unless it is covered under warranty by the manufacturer. Jandy offers zero for internet sales so there is no way for a DIY to even get defective parts replaced. Fortunately you don't have this issue with Pentair so I wouldn't mess with a potentially less expert supplier. If I was in your situation I'd go to Inyopools or parts4heating

I hope this helps.

Chris
Click to expand...
Your link doesn' t seem to work, I bought the last one from(through) Amazon. Just returned it.

Inyo is pretty high.
 
Kihon said:
Your link doesn' t seem to work, I bought the last one from(through) Amazon. Just returned it.

Inyo is pretty high.
Click to expand...

Yep, sorry. That's the link of my transaction but I couldn't get it to open any other way than to Google my part number and then select the Amazon link from the search results. If Amazon Services LLC does not come up for your part number then they must not sell it. You can probably get it cheaper from bestpoolshop.com store front in Amazon and get the Amazon 30 day return. I consider parts4heating.com more reliable because Fenwal tech support told me they are an aurthorized dealer for Fenwal. I found bestpoolshop to be very reliable but they are a very low overhead operation. Only way to contact them is email and shipping notifications I got from them were a little confusing. At first I was frustrated with nobody to call but they responded within hours of my email even though it was sent late Friday night well after hours. In exchange for their low overhead operation I got quality parts at the best price. At the end of the day this is all about personal decisions each of us need to make that are right for each of us about risk of quality Vs price until we have experience and get more comfortable.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 

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I returned the other control board and they have finally refunded me the money.

I have finished my conversation with Pentair. Basically went no where. I'll leave his name out out of respect.

Here's the text:

I initially started with emailing in my orig thread here, with some small modifications

Pentair's first reply:
Since it fires and then errors out that could be a number of things, but first thing to try is the thermal regulator. There is that threaded cap in between the inlet/outlet lines on the heater, with power and water flow off you take this cap off and remove the large spring and thermostat head inside there. Then close it up and turn on power and try to run the heater and see if anything changes.

My reply:
Did you happen to to read my email completely? It's not erroring out, just turning the heat off.
In my email I mentioned that I already checked and replaced the thermal regulator you are asking me to check.
thanks

Pentair Reply:
I said to remove the regulator and try running without it for testing purposes only, if the unit starts, fires and still turns off then check to see what Diagnostic LED is showing on the back of board if any.

My reply:
I will do that and report back on Friday when I return. One thing, I did remove the entire header prior to check the bypass valve and it' was all OK. This heater is only 5 years old or so

Pentair reply:
For sure, yes if it still fires briefly and goes to service Heater LED coming on it depends on the LED on board at that point. If it still gives AGS, turn power off and remove the two red wires from AGS switch and jump them together. Then turn heater back on and see what it does as well.

My reply:
Ok back from trip.
  1. Removed the large spring and thermostat head inside the header. reinstalled cap.
  2. Tested heater
  3. Same problem as this video: https://youtu.be/bu4v_HDQCbA. Turns on for 15 secs or so, then shuts off with service light on and AGS LED on.
  4. Jumped AGS wires, same problem.
Pentair reply:
So with the regulator removed and AGS red wires jumped together, the heater shuts down and still gives AGS on board?

My reply:
Yes sir
Also, I forgot to mention that 2 weeks ago, I replaced the control board once from a company on Amazon. See my pics and this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCZjBOTD5sQ
When I hooked it up, NOTHING worked. didn't even fire up. Can you look at the video and LMK what you think about that board? Is it counterfeit or genuine Pentair board? Wonder why it wouldn't work. I returned it to the vendor and it's pending refund. LMK thanks

Pentair reply:
That would have to be either one of the two AGS wires is bad or something wrong with your control board. If the wires are jumped out it should not be able to error out with that safety even if overheating.

My reply:
Doesn't seem as if you are reading my entire emails. In my last email I said that I returned the board to the vendor. Can you answer the the other questions on whether or not it looks fake or counterfeit? I'm afraid to order another one. thx

Pentair reply:
I have never seen a board that fits in our heater that was not built or made by Pentair, if you are ordering 42002-0007s that is the only control board part number for our heaters. Online it is impossible to say what you are getting, if you want to get a board from a local company the link below can help find them near you. Based on your video the board looks like ours, not sure if that build up on it is just the sprayed on sealant or not.

Pool and Spa Equipment
Click to expand...

So, Now im back to square one. Afraid to order another board from another company that *MAY or MAY NOT take it back if it doesn't work. Anyone have a board that I can rent from you and toss in for testing purposes?

Thx
 
K,

This is tough and I'm sure it's frustrating. I was at about the same frustration level with my Jandy about a month ago. I followed the trouble shooting guide carefully a couple of times. Then ran down leads from experts. I had replaced all the major components (totally fried in a lightning strike). When all the straight-forward testing does not work you have to look for the weird stuff. Every single test and symptom indicated no flame rectification signal and must be a bad module (I had just replaced with new from parts4heating). Even got an additional replacement with no change. Turned out the lightning strike had damaged the power supply wires that in turn caused a leak to ground that interfered with the flame rectification signal. Small leak that didn't affect heater performance in any way except it created a signal that blocked detection of the micro amp flame rectification.

My point in this is you may need to step back and think about what could cause the problem? I still get down to 2 things:
  • Wires to the AGS. Try completely replacing them with the current wires removed from their connection at the other end. Then short them to see if the AGS light goes out.
  • If that doesn't work order another new board from a reputable supplier.
Experts on here may be able to thing of some other very low chance things to check out before you order the new board.

Hang in there!

Chris
 
setsailsoon said:
K,

This is tough and I'm sure it's frustrating. I was at about the same frustration level with my Jandy about a month ago. I followed the trouble shooting guide carefully a couple of times. Then ran down leads from experts. I had replaced all the major components (totally fried in a lightning strike). When all the straight-forward testing does not work you have to look for the weird stuff. Every single test and symptom indicated no flame rectification signal and must be a bad module (I had just replaced with new from parts4heating). Even got an additional replacement with no change. Turned out the lightning strike had damaged the power supply wires that in turn caused a leak to ground that interfered with the flame rectification signal. Small leak that didn't affect heater performance in any way except it created a signal that blocked detection of the micro amp flame rectification.

My point in this is you may need to step back and think about what could cause the problem? I still get down to 2 things:
  • Wires to the AGS. Try completely replacing them with the current wires removed from their connection at the other end. Then short them to see if the AGS light goes out.
  • If that doesn't work order another new board from a reputable supplier.
Experts on here may be able to thing of some other very low chance things to check out before you order the new board.

Hang in there!

Chris
Click to expand...
I did a few things
  • I ran a continuity test on the red 2 wires both disconnected and connected to the board. The wires are good from end to end.
  • I jumped the pins right at the board connector
  • Tested with pins jumped at board, still shows AGS LED on after testing :(
 
I'll order a new board from Inyo.

In the meantime, since the board is bad, I decided to dive a little deeper into the board and figured out how to manually close the solenoid of the the large black relay (JTN1AS-PA-F-DC24V RELAY) is on the top corner of the board....by adding small voltage to the bottom terminals.

Hey the board's bad anyhow right?

Interestingly enough, with the relay closing that circuit, the board and heater seem to work just like they are supposed to now, except for for the AGS LED being on. Heater comes on and stays on and also shuts off when spa temp is achieved. Fan even turns off when it shuts off. If I increase the desired temp on my cell phone (iAqualink 2), the heater kicks on just like it's supposed to until desired temp is reached. I looked around for the diagram for that control board.

I'm assuming that bypassing the Automatic gas shut-off (AGS) switch, it could potentially be a fire hazard if the heat exchanger outlet temperature goes above 140° F. Simply wouldn't shut it off. AGS couldn't do it's safety job.

In your guy's opinions, does this almost rule out anything else being wrong with the heater since it's working fine this way?

I'd love to hear any comments you have.
 
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Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue and found that a mouse had eaten the covering of one wires of the ignitor but not the wire itself. Someone mentioned on another thread that it could be the ignitor as it still works but fails to give flame rectification. I'm going to replace my ignitor and see since its cheaper than the board.
IMG_2637.JPGIMG_2636.JPG
 
netronin said:
Did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue and found that a mouse had eaten the covering of one wires of the ignitor but not the wire itself. Someone mentioned on another thread that it could be the ignitor as it still works but fails to give flame rectification. I'm going to replace my ignitor and see since its cheaper than the board.
View attachment 337457View attachment 337458
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Sorry for the late reply, but I did figure this out. I thought I had replied here but I guess I was all happy my heater was back working that I forgot. LOL

Since the board was deemed bad, I ended up cutting open the relay that's on the board. Used an alligator clip to manually close the contacts on the relay. pool/spa heater has worked ever since. IMG_3171.JPG
 

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