Algae Help!

I would use the CYA 70, and 28 FC for your slam until you get a new tube.
Ok. And once I run the pool pump for 24 and SLAM I turn everything off and do a OCT right to make sure I’m in the clear? Currently, The water is clear , 0 CC, just some minimal bacteria/algae in pool.
 
For the SLAM I would start by targeting 28ppm because it is not a direct linear scale from 60 to 70 so lets go with 70 CYA.

Also, what about some glue on the bottom because it really doesn't affect the reading of the CYA tube. Just need to hold the solution.

Suggest you DM @Leebo to help on the exchange needed.
I will try glue tomorrow before starting SLAM. and I read the tube once I can’t visibly see the black spot in the tube right? I keep adding units it’s not visible?
 
Ok. And once I run the pool pump for 24 and SLAM I turn everything off and do a OCT right to make sure I’m in the clear? Currently, The water is clear , 0 CC, just some minimal bacteria/algae in pool.
You can leave the pump on 24/7. You should raise your FC to 28 with Liquid Chlorine. Scrub a bunch. Wait 2 hours, test FC only again. Add enough to get back to 28. Scrub a bunch. Wait 2 hours, test FC only again. Add enough LC to get to 28. Scrub a bunch. Just keep doing this, at 2 hour intervals, all day. It doesn't HAVE to be two hours, but the more often you do it, the quicker the slam will be over. Don't do it any more than every hour. 2 hours seems to be a good compromise. You can do every 4 hours, but don't do it less that twice a day.

You don't need to test pH, you don't need to test CYA again during SLAM. Just focus on FC. Leave the pump on.

At the end of the day, at least a 1/2-1 hour AFTER your last LC addition, and you are past sunset, test FC one last time. Do NOT add LC to get back to slam level. write that number down!

In the morning, BEFORE SUNRISE, go back out and test FC and CC. If your FC loss is <= 1, and your CC <= .5, and your water is clear, you are done! If your FC loss is > 1, start the 2 hour slam cycles again. Scrub. All day.

It may take a couple days, it may take a week. Given your water is clear, my guess is it will take less that 2.

Good Luck!
 
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I will try glue tomorrow before starting SLAM. and I read the tube once I can’t visibly see the black spot in the tube right? I keep adding units it’s not visible?
CYA is a tough test to read. Make is simple. Fill to 90 line. Put at your waist. If you can see dot with a "Glance," then fill to 80 line. If you can see dot with a Glance, fill to 70. Fill to 60, glance. Just fill to each line. When you can't see it with a glance (i.e. you can see it if you stare at it, but can't when you glance, you are done). Then, add back 10 to the last line. If you could see at 70, but not 60, your CYA is 70.

Here is a more detailed description --> CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool
 
CYA is a tough test to read. Make is simple. Fill to 90 line. Put at your waist. If you can see dot with a "Glance," then fill to 80 line. If you can see dot with a Glance, fill to 70. Fill to 60, glance. Just fill to each line. When you can't see it with a glance (i.e. you can see it if you stare at it, but can't when you glance, you are done). Then, add back 10 to the last line. If you could see at 70, but not 60, your CYA is 70.

Here is a more detailed description --> CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool
Omg the first time is did I was staring at it and I’m like how is this going to work if I can see it lol. Glad you adviced “glancing” and not staring.
 
Good morning!! Do I leave my MKX8 vacuum in pool during slam? Going to start at 8 am. Also, when should be my last addition of LC for the day?
 
Good morning!! Do I leave my MKX8 vacuum in pool during slam? Going to start at 8 am. Also, when should be my last addition of LC for the day?
you can remove the vacuum. The goal is to keep your pool at SLAM level i.e. 28ppm so continue to add LC throughout the day if after each test and you find you are below 28ppm. You can go as late as you can because the longer the pool is at 28ppm the better.
 
you can remove the vacuum. The goal is to keep your pool at SLAM level i.e. 28ppm so continue to add LC throughout the day if after each test and you find you are below 28ppm. You can go as late as you can because the longer the pool is at 28ppm the better.
Ok. Also, is it safe to go in pool during SLAM to scrub hard to reach areas or should I wait until tomorrow to go in and scrub?
 
Yes - it is OK to swim up to the SLAM level.

Good that you brought down pH. As a reminder, no need to test pH going forward because the drop test for pH is not valid when your FC is above 10ppm.
 

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Yes - it is OK to swim up to the SLAM level.

Good that you brought down pH. As a reminder, no need to test pH going forward because the drop test for pH is not valid when your FC is above 10ppm.
Oh no I think I added a bit too much or something. I retested my FC and it’s a 31. A bit higher than my target of 28 ughh!!
 
So let’s say this works and I’m good for tomorrow, how am I suppose maintain my water at the cya/FC ratio of my FC is going to be high for a while? When I finish slam at what target % should I turn on the daily SWG to disperse chlorine? And also, do I retest all the other chemicals right like PH and Alkalinity? What is recommended for Alkalinity to increase/decrease?
 
The SLAM Process normally takes several days to a week or more. So prepare yourself for that.
Once you pass the three criteria for a successful SLAM, let the FC drift down to 10 ppm and test pH and TA. At that time also set your SWCG to generate 4 ppm FC per day as a starting point on how much FC you add each day. Then test FC each day and adjust, if necessary, to keep the FC level at or above the target level based on your CYA.

Maintain pH in the 7's. The TA will resolve it self as you do that. Test TA each time your pH reaches 7.8 or 8 and needs to be adjusted with acid.
 
The SLAM Process normally takes several days to a week or more. So prepare yourself for that.
Once you pass the three criteria for a successful SLAM, let the FC drift down to 10 ppm and test pH and TA. At that time also set your SWCG to generate 4 ppm FC per day as a starting point on how much FC you add each day. Then test FC each day and adjust, if necessary, to keep the FC level at or above the target level based on your CYA.

Maintain pH in the 7's. The TA will resolve it self as you do that. Test TA each time your pH reaches 7.8 or 8 and needs to be adjusted with acid.
Ok, and how do I determine/calculate what % on SWG to disperse FC at 4 ppm?
 
Running your pump 24/7 at low rpm just enough to satisfy the flow switch plus 200 rpm for good measure @ 60% will yield 4.2 ppm FC/day.
Currently, we have a Hayward pump variable speed. from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m is on high speed and from 4:15 pm to 8 pm a low speed (50 %) so based on that should I still set it at 60%? I was told I had to run it at 12 hours to avoid algae (ihad it running at 6 hours on high and 3 hours on low) and at 100% chlorination, again this is before I found this site.
 
Let's put this way. The filter and or pump is not what keeps the algae gone but rather the sanitization along with it so if you were able to technically sanitize the pool in 1 hour you would not need any more pump time. The rest of the pump time is to your satisfaction on how much you care to skim the pool. So now going back to your pump schedule the SWCG could care less what speed the pump runs. Running the pump at the rpm I explained before will allow the pool to constantly skim and filter for as low as maybe $20 a month. At that pump run time being at 60% will satisfy your FC demand of 4ppm loss per day.
 
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Let's put this way. The filter and or pump is not what keeps the algae gone but rather the sanitization along with it so if you were able to technically sanitize the pool in 1 hour you would not need any more pump time. The rest of the pump time is to your satisfaction on how much you care to skim the pool. So now going back to your pump schedule the SWCG could care less what speed the pump runs. Running the pump at the rpm I explained before will allow the pool to constantly skim and filter for as low as maybe $20 a month. At that pump run time being at 60% will satisfy your FC demand of 4ppm loss per day.
Well like I said this was before I found this site and as per instructions from my pool service company (the owner). So not knowing I did what they said because they had blamed it on me for the severe algae, cloudy water, itchy skin/irritating eyes from water. They were servicing the pool two days a week and said everything was fine with the water. Until I called the owner and she advised the run times and increase chlorination, and they shocked the pool using cal hypo and that was it. After a week of still issues, we stopped the service. Our electricity bill has definitely gone up this past month due to all longer pump filtration and chlorination.

Excuse my ignorance, I only know there are 2 run speeds on the pump high and low. Based on my pool at 25,000 how many hours do I do at high and at low speed at 60%. I took the responsibility to service our pool and let go of our service so I am learning.
 
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