Algae Help!

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poolmom21 said:
I tried explaining it to my husband and he doesn't understand if our FC is high why we are adding more chlorine and I am having a hard time explaining it to him.
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Simply put, TFPC is a methodology that is proven by thousands of pool owners on this forum. It is not what the pool store is telling you so it takes a different frame of reference to accept this methodology. Thousands of forum members have crystal clear water and have never had algae. Others have posted videos on specifics of your issues but it may be best for your husband to read the following link
What is TFPC? - Trouble Free Pool | Trouble Free Pool
 
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You've been given great links that will help with your testing as well as understanding the cya/chlorine relationship.

I was confused about the colors on the tests as well. On the calcium test, as Texas told you, it will be a barely tinged pinky/purple color, the final color will be baby blue, just enough to see it changed colors.

On the alkalinity test it will start very green and end up an almost florescent pink. You keep adding and counting drops until the last drop makes no more color change, then don't count that last drop.

Your pool smells of chlorine because it is chewing through whatever nasties are in your water. You keep the chlorine at slam levels, i believe yours is 20, checking every 2 hours if possible, adding chlorine back to your slam level.

You do that, brush and vacuum everyday ( brushing disturbs the algae biofilm that protects it from chlorine) until your water looks clear. Then you can try an OCLT to see if your algae is gone.

It's a lot to take in keep asking questions and we will get you through it. Mostly, trust the process, it works.

Oh, Wireform is correct, we should have said get the speedster it makes all the difference to ease of testing.
 
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I ordered some liquid chlorine. I did an OCT last evening and this morning and I did it incorrectly as I didn't know the pump needs to be on for at least 30 minutes to circulate the pool water. (Hey I am learning lol) so it gave me a loss of 1 ppm of FC, but again I didn't do it correctly.

Ok. so once I get the chlorine I will redo the testing. The CYA is a bit difficult to do since the tube is cracked and water leaks out so not sure how to handle that or just a guess based on the last store testing....

So once I SLAM the pool and the overnight test and the other steps needed to pass the SLAM test how to I bring down the levels to maintenance levels CYA/FC? And what would be the best % to keep my SWG chlorine running at?
 
Texas Splash said:
Once you complete the 3 SLAM criteria, the only thing that will be elevated is the FC. That will fall soon enough on its own. Did you receive a PM from TFP Admin about your cracked tube?
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No, i have not received a message regarding the supply kit...

How long does it normally take for the FC to drop and what % should I run the SWG at to maintain the pool?
 
You are still in the middle of a SLAM Process correct? The SWG won't maintain the FC level required which is why we recommend liquid chlorine, but I understand you are looking for more. For now just leave the SWG at about 50%. But let's say you complete a SLAM and pass all 3 criteria, then it will take about 2-3 days for your FC to fall naturally on its own. It doesn't hurt anything and is still safe to swim.

@Leebo did you get the PM about this OP's cracked tube?
 
poolmom21 said:
How long does it normally take for the FC to drop and what % should I run the SWG at to maintain the pool?
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Once your pool is clear and passes the SLAM criteria, it is OK to swim with FC at SLAM level. It will drop based on amount of UV hitting the pool
 
Texas Splash said:
You are still in the middle of a SLAM Process correct? The SWG won't maintain the FC level required which is why we recommend liquid chlorine, but I understand you are looking for more. For now just leave the SWG at about 50%. But let's say you complete a SLAM and pass all 3 criteria, then it will take about 2-3 days for your FC to fall naturally on its own. It doesn't hurt anything and is still safe to swim.

@Leebo did you get the PM about this OP's cracked tube?
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I have not started SLAM yet as I don't have liquid chlorine. I have my SWG running at 100%
Saturday -Sunday for 24 hours I did a Turbo Boost
Monday-Wednesday I had it at 80%
and today I have it set at 100% since I don't have SWG and don't want the algae to come back. Its very minimal like when I scrub the walls/tanning bed area I can see slight algae residual when I brush.

Is this ok until I get liquid chlorine or?
 
poolmom21 said:
The CYA is a bit difficult to do since the tube is cracked and water leaks out so not sure how to handle that or just a guess based on the last store testing.
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You didn't indicate how severe the crack is on the CYA tube but you could put some clear tape on it. The CYA test is fairly quick as you are dropping the solution into the tube and watching for the dot to disappear. It is not ideal but a little drip shouldn't affect the outcome drastically.
 

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HermanTX said:
You didn't indicate how severe the crack is on the CYA tube but you could put some clear tape on it. The CYA test is fairly quick as you are dropping the solution into the tube and watching for the dot to disappear. It is not ideal but a little drip shouldn't affect the outcome drastically.
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I didn't think about the tape but it's cracked enough where water leaks out quick...I'll try it with tape..the other beak is also cracked I'll try tape until I get replacements.
 
poolmom21 said:
I have not started SLAM yet as I don't have liquid chlorine.
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I see. So no liquid chlorine at your local Home Depot or Walmart huh? You know you can also use regular bleach right? Its not as strong (%), but it's the same main ingredient. So you can grab some regular bleach as well. Just make sure it's not the Clorox brand, an nothing that say splashless or scented.
 
HermanTX said:
You didn't indicate how severe the crack is on the CYA tube but you could put some clear tape on it. The CYA test is fairly quick as you are dropping the solution into the tube and watching for the dot to disappear. It is not ideal but a little drip shouldn't affect the outcome drastically.
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The crack on
Texas Splash said:
I see. So no liquid chlorine at your local Home Depot or Walmart huh? You know you can also use regular bleach right? Its not as strong (%), but it's the same main ingredient. So you can grab some regular bleach as well. Just make sure it's not the Clorox brand, an nothing that say splashless or scented.
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Yes, I will go to Walmart today and check. So don't get the Clorox brand? how many gallons should I get for the mean time?
 
Ace Hardware, Palm Desert has HtH Chlorinating liquid.
Pricey, but most likely better than household bleach. I would check Walmart or Home Depot first.
 
HermanTX said:
I searched the HD in Indio, CA (on Jackson St). It states you have to go to store to check availability. See link
www.homedepot.com

Pool Essentials 1 Gal. Pool Chlorinating Liquid 26128ESS - The Home Depot

Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid kills algae and bacteria. This product is salt-system compatible and is calcium free. Available in 1 Gal. jug.
www.homedepot.com
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Yes, thank you, I did see that as well. I will be going there for sure, if they do have them do I get like 4?
 
poolmom21 said:
if they do have them do I get like 4?
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Your volume pool one gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will add 4 ppm FC. To raise your FC to SLAM level (20 ppm FC) you need 5 gallons. Then you will be adding at least a gallon, maybe two, every few hours to start.
I would suggest getting at least 15 gallons. If the store is not far from you, get 10 gallons but be prepared to go back to the store every couple days until the algae is defeated.
 

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