And it probably cost more than buying a new opener that already has smartphone control built in
But, of course, that wouldn’t be any fun...
Alexa pool control on a shoestring budget
- Thread starter chiefwej
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But, of course, that wouldn’t be any fun...
I setting up similar system. I have the Lutron caseta system already which IMHO is the best system. It does use a hub but makes the controls almost instant. For anything outside of 120v 5amp you can wire in a relay with a 120v coil that controls in this case up 20amps. This will allow you to switch off just about anything with a normal light switch or in this case a caseta switch. For 240v you can wire this up to only one leg of the 240v and it will shut the pump. In that case just wire a normal 240v switch before the smart switch so in case of service you can turn off both legs. This setup also allows you to use one system for everything. And is most likely the lowest price.
Functional Devices RIB2401B Enclosed Relay, 20 Amp Spdt with 24 Vac/Dc/120 Vac Coil: Automotive Starter Relays: Amazon.com: Industrial Scientific
Functional Devices RIB2401B Enclosed Relay, 20 Amp Spdt with 24 Vac/Dc/120 Vac Coil: Automotive Starter Relays: Amazon.com: Industrial Scientific
Just hoping I can also use it somehow to autodose bleach to recoup.And it probably cost more than buying a new opener that already has smartphone control built in
But, of course, that wouldn’t be any fun...
Switching only one leg of a 220 circuit is not an acceptable practice. Get a DPST switch and do it right.
My system does not burn the toast. All it does is automatically clean,chlorinate, control temperature, and filtration of the pool. In addition to providing voice (or remote iPhone) switching for the spa pump, heater, and light levels for pool, spa, barbecue and patio lights.
(To be honest, I had to go back and look at the movie intro. 1985 was a while ago.)
For anyone still interested in setting up a similar system, it’s been more than 6 months and this system has thus far worked flawlessly. No problems with the WiFi connection or performance of any of the switches. I’ve now set up a similar system both for a neighbor and for my son.
I just helped my brother-in-law with a project for his workshop...looked for something within his budget and found these; of course, you would need two.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LEUJU6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Haha, it’s the same one you posted earlier (only 5 posts ago) in this thread...was there a problem? I reread, it looks like you were proposing only using one leg. Use one of these for each leg...chief, is that a legal thing to do?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LEUJU6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Haha, it’s the same one you posted earlier (only 5 posts ago) in this thread...was there a problem? I reread, it looks like you were proposing only using one leg. Use one of these for each leg...chief, is that a legal thing to do?
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Chief,
That's great to hear! Please continue to update. This may give us all a viable alternative to full pool control one day. I think the next step of "decoding" the protocol for proprietary serial connections used to give more than "on off" instructions is the key to real alternative control systems. These are used to change temp settings for heater control and % power for chlorinator cells. I wish there was an industry standard but of course none of the manufacturers are incentivized to develop one. In fact their incentive is exactly the opposite. But it doesn't seem that it would be that hard to decode. I believe they all use a standard networking protocol such as rs 232, 432, or 485. These are extremely reliable and proven for many industrial applications. I want to jump in on this project but I have a few higher priorities dictated by Sr Management (my wife). So I'll continue to follow what your're doing with great interest!
Chris
It's actually to code to only kill one leg as long as you have a full disconnect further back in the line.
Would this work to do both at once?
Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7eHNCbWJAHVST
That looks good to me but I am sure others will chime in. I wanted to avoid messing with special pins (connections and/or soldering) on my project and just used electrical caps.
Most of the serial communication pool mfg's use is RS-485 MODBUS protocol. I've never snooped it but they may not even encode it.
Several people on Github have figured out the protocol for a few of the manufacturers and some have even made a pool controller that uses it.
Several people on Github have figured out the protocol for a few of the manufacturers and some have even made a pool controller that uses it.
No decoding is necessary for either heaters or SWG. For actual control of a heater or SWG , power is simply switched on and off with the device itself set at the maximum setting. Reading and setting the temp and or CL level and would be the job of a controller. Temperature would be a lot easier than CL levels. But in either case simple on/off is the only communication needed with the device itself. That’s exactly how most current automation systems control heaters. They read temp and turn the power to the heater on or off accordingly.
Since my goal was to keep things as simple as possible, I’ve made no effort to remotely control the actual temperature settings, just heater on or off.
Since my goal was to keep things as simple as possible, I’ve made no effort to remotely control the actual temperature settings, just heater on or off.
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Fantastic post! I use pentair for full automation and now you have me thinking about voice control. I hope Pentair sees your post and add in alexa voice compatibility. I second google wifi. Tried others but it has been the most reliable and easy to expand. If the pucks are cat five connected speed is awesome. Thank you. Please update as you add on.
My pentair easytouch has Alexa control? I use it everyday. And Apple Watch support. Are we talking about something different?
Pentair is still in the lead for automation imo. My PB went with Jandy/Zodiac, and they still don't have smart home support. It's probably just a matter of time, as they need to compete and many people have requested it of them, but in the meantime it falls back to DIY solutions. I set up mine recently with Home Assistant and it uses the iAqualink API, so it wasn't too bad, no wiring or hardware modification necessary. But there's still a couple features I can't access through Google Home.
Pentair Alexa support is pretty weak. It disconnects all the time. But personally I think voice control is over rated. I like my physical control.
My simple, inexpensive, DIY Alexa voice/iPhone control system has been bulletproof. It’s been in service for over a year now, and continues to work flawlessly. All three of my neighbors, who have now followed suit, report the same results. For less than $200 and one afternoon to install, it’s hard to beat.
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For anyone considering a similar project: Woods no longer sells the WiOn 220v double pole smart switch. The good news is what appears to be the exact same switch is available as the DEWENWILS Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box.
DEWENWILS Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box, Heavy Duty 40A 120VAC 2HP Wireless Controller Timer Switch for Pool Water Heater SPA, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, UL Listed - - Amazon.com
DEWENWILS Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box, Heavy Duty 40A 120VAC 2HP Wireless Controller Timer Switch for Pool Water Heater SPA, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, UL Listed - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
I built a similar timer using a smart WiFi switch which controls a 240 volt relay. Works great for both pump and heater.
