There are two specs to look at - FLA (Full Load Amperage) and LRA (Locked Rotor Amperage). The FLA is the current a motor draws when it is under full rotational load, sort of like an operating amperage. The LRA is a worst-case-scenario amperage and it’s actually measured by locking the motor shaft so it can’t rotate and measuring the current draw of the wiring in the motor. The specs on that switch only list 120V with a 1HP motor (16amp FLA & 60amp LRA). You’d have to check the specs on your pool pump to see if they match and pull out the paperwork on the WiON unit to see if there are specs for running a 220V motor. A 220V motor draws roughly half the current (FLA) of a 120V motor BUT the LRA may not be half. I suspect the internal SSR (solid state relay) that controls the switching is designed with a fly-back circuitry (diode and dissipating resistance) to avoid any arcing.Matt,
Here is a link to the 220v DPST switch I’m using. I don’t know much about the specs, but so far it’s been working fine. I’m using it to switch a 2hp, single speedHayward Super Pump, that powers my spa. The thing seemed cheap at $59 when I bought it. Now it’s down to $43!! Should I be concerned that it’s too cheap?
WiOn 50054 Outdoor Wi-Fi Smart Box, Wireless Time Switch - - Amazon.com
If the internet is down or your WiFi is out, the switches won’t work. But, I’m not using them for any critical applications, so I would just walk over there and operate the switch manually, just like I did before I added the smart switches.My biggest concern and possible cause of issues is local control. A lot of these switches require a cloud system and have no local control so if you lose internet connection it won't trigger the switch to turn off. The hubless method typically uses this cloud based control.
I like the idea and its implementation is pretty amazing.
I tried x-10 years ago but not for a pool. I now use a wink hub and caseta switches and a few zwave compatible remote switches but nothing related the pool yet.
My WEMO hubless switches work fine without Internet. My sister says her WiOn switches do to.My biggest concern and possible cause of issues is local control. A lot of these switches require a cloud system and have no local control so if you lose internet connection it won't trigger the switch to turn off. The hubless method typically uses this cloud based control.
Thanks for clearing that up. An HA system that goes down with the internet would be a no go for me (for most anybody, I expect). Losing remote access control (which is fundamentally what Alexa is) would be expected, and would be true of any system. I've been monitoring this excellent thread because I have my eye on replacing my HA system, so I can finally rid myself of this Insteon junk. Sorry, but it is. I'm sure it works for some, but I've had it (and its even more useless cousin X-10) in four houses now and I've never had a reliable system. Sick of it. A $50-$75 light switch should not only work perfectly, every time, but last forever (IMO), at least a year/dollar. My mom's 1950s house has original light switches in it. They were probably 20¢ back then, if that!!My WEMO hubless switches work fine without Internet. My sister says her WiOn switches do to.
Maybe you are confusing it with cloud based hub systems or Alexa control which does require the Internet.
I think a concern is the WiFi dependency. Do your WEMO devices work if you turn off your wireless router? If they do then it seems that they keep their own schedule inside the switch. A follow up...if you turn off your router and then unplug your wemo devices, can you plug them back in and they still keep the schedule without turning on your router...in other words do the wemo devices keep the schedule inside of the switch in some type of non-volatile memory?The programmed schedules on my WEMO devices work fine without the Internet.
I think that's minor compared to requiring the Internet and 3rd party servers. Routers are very good these days.a concern is the WiFi dependency.