Adjusting the pool chemistry

[kimkats]

It very normal for it to go back to pink after sitting for a bit. Ignore it! Once it goes clear call it and move on.

 

[samjesse]

Hi
I left the chlorinator running 24 hr "to mix the other additives" on the high level "8". Now that I saw 10.5 FC, I turned it down to "0". and will monitor to bring down to 3-5.
Shock Level says 28 FC. Can I leave the Clorinator for longer time on hight output in order to finish the Shocking?

Thanks

 

[jimbethesda]

What is this “chlorinator” you speak of?

Is it

1) a tablet dissolve tube?
2) a SWG (salt chlorine generator)?
3) a liquid chlorine tank?
4) something else?

 

[AusPhil]

What is this “chlorinator” you speak of?

Is it

1) a tablet dissolve tube?
2) a SWG (salt chlorine generator)?
3) a liquid chlorine tank?
4) something else?

Guess i got out of the bed on the wrong side......
The forum asks for signatures to be filled out so we don't ask this over and over .... the sig block clearly says SWG 24g/h,

Hi
I left the chlorinator running 24 hr "to mix the other additives" on the high level "8". Now that I saw 10.5 FC, I turned it down to "0". and will monitor to bring down to 3-5.
Shock Level says 28 FC. Can I leave the Clorinator for longer time on hight output in order to finish the Shocking?

Thanks

I wish all your posts were together so we retained the overall view of whats happening to better help out.
I assume your SWCG runs whilst your pump is running and because your running the pump longer to mix the other stuff your adding that your FC has been driven higher.....
Honestly if your CYA is 30 to 70 then the FC of 10.5 is fine, you can swim up to slam level so anything under that really is fine.

With the cooler summer weather my FC got as high as 15 before i just turned the SWCG off for 5 days..... it's back on at the moment running at it's lowest setting

 

[samjesse]

I wish all your posts were together so we retained the overall view of whats happening to better help out.

Sorry, but how do I make them together, just one post instead of many with different titles? or under one forum category?
I guess the various titles would help others during searching... hummm can you explain as that would indead be good for me too. thx

 

[AusPhil]

Sorry, but how do I make them together, just one post instead of many with different titles? or under one forum category?
I guess the various titles would help others during searching... hummm can you explain as that would indeed be good for me too. thx

as i said maybe just being grumpy today so a couple grains of salt ....... your largely dealing with a chemistry issue which fits under the testing and balancing section. It's quite normal for multiple things to be discussed over a period of a week or two in the one thread as it keeps all the information together.
We would need one of the mods to pull the existing threads together if they thought it was valid.

Generally in my opinion the forum is searched better via google and google will index down to the post level rather than the thread level

I'm still concerned that you may be adding the wrong volume of chemicals and will significantly overshoot the targets as the original proposed additions seemed to be 4x what would be needed for your pool.

 

[Texas Splash]

If you ever get posts or threads scattered and need help, just hit the "Report" link at the bottom of the post or thread. Tell us what you want us to do and we'll merge, delete, etc as needed. Easy stuff.....usually.

 

[jimbethesda]

Guess i got out of the bed on the wrong side......
The forum asks for signatures to be filled out so we don't ask this over and over .... the sig block clearly says SWG 24g/

Sorry, I forgot that on the iPhone, you have to hold it landscape to see sig.

 

[AusPhil]

Sorry, I forgot that on the iPhone, you have to hold it landscape to see sig.

Sorry should have guessed the phone thing......

 

[samjesse]

I'm still concerned that you may be adding the wrong volume of chemicals and will significantly overshoot the targets as the original proposed additions seemed to be 4x what would be needed for your pool.

Yes, I was worried about that so I made sure the units are correct in the PoolMath "PM", also I do not add the whole amount but 1/2 and retest again just in case, so far the readings are OK, today will be my "last" reading after yestereday adding to raise the CH and update the PM, hopfully no major additives needed for a while .

 

[samjesse]

Hi
PoolMath TA recommended range is 60-80, current is 100. It says "To lower TA you reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH".
How much acid to use? Is it the acid in the photo? What-is and how-to aerate?

Thank you

 

[tim5055]

With TA at 100 I wouldn't bother trying to push it down for most pools. Generally, pH rises and acid is used to bring keep the pH in line. Over time this will bring the TA down as well.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Sam - Yes, that is muratic acid in your picture. I cant read the % on the label, but you would use pool math to tell you how much to use.

Aeration is anything that aerates the water, like bubbler, waterfalls, kids splashing, etc. I have even seen people build their own and hook it up to a return.

The general concept is that aeration raises the pH, so you knock down the pH and total alkalinity with acid, then aerate to raise the PH back up and repeat the process until your TA is where you want it. It will likely take days to get there.

 

[AusPhil]

With TA at 100 I wouldn't bother trying to push it down for most pools. Generally, pH rises and acid is used to bring keep the pH in line. Over time this will bring the TA down as well.

I fully agree with Tim, ignore it or just bump the upper range number to 100 in poolmath, it will lower itself over time as you add acid to counter the ph rise from the swcg usage

 

[AusPhil]

Sam - Yes, that is muratic acid in your picture. I cant read the % on the label, but you would use pool math to tell you how much to use.

It's generally known by the hydrocloric acid name in Australia, the label says it's 32%. For anyone in Oz within range of a Bunnings store they can pick this up under the Bondall Hydrochloric acid label.

 

[Jay-P]

Got what I need from the local Bunnings store hopefully this brand is alright

Just a heads up from experience - That stabilizer won't dissolve properly as per the instructions on the back. Happened to me and left clumps on the floor of the pool. Advised to use the sock method and all was good

 

[samjesse]

...Happened to me and left clumps on the floor of the pool. .

Yes. I had to rub and spread it around till all is gone,

 

[samjesse]

The PoolMath suggests to add 0.8Kg of baking soda to adjust the TA. I have Lectric Washing Soda, will that do? or have to buy the baking soda? Thank you

 

[ajw22]

The PoolMath suggests to add 0.8Kg of baking soda to adjust the TA. I have Lectric Washing Soda, will that do? or have to buy the baking soda? Thank you

Depends what effect on both pH and TA you want. Why do you want to raise a TA of 55? pH of 7.4 and TA of 55 is just fine.

The simplest way to raise TA is with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate or sodium hydrogen carbonate). In fact, if you look at the ingredient in the chemical bottle that pool stores sell as “alkalinity increaser”, it is precisely that, baking soda!! And, it is often 2X to 3X the price of the stuff in your grocery store.

Other chemicals are sometimes suggested for raising TA. Their effects are:

• Baking Soda = big TA change, small pH change
• Borax = Big pH change, small TA change
• Soda Ash/Washing Soda = big pH change, big TA change.

It is often best to make large TA adjustments in a couple of steps, testing the water after each one, as adding large quantities of baking soda can raise the PH a little and you don't want the PH going out of range.

TA - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com