A very naive pool owner here!

[Muna]

You just want to make sure your pool has enough FC. Clear doesn't always mean sanitary. I noticed you had a high temp yesterday, which can gobble chlorine. But with your SWG going at it, you'll probably fine. Best to test before you jump in.

Good morning, I have a couple of questions.
We got heavy rain last night, should I check the chemical now or wait for now?
I use a dolphin-robot usually when the pump is not running. Should I do it while the pump is running?
I found the manuals and I will read those this weekend. Thank you so much.

 

[Dirk]

Good morning, I have a couple of questions.
We got heavy rain last night, should I check the chemical now or wait for now?
I use a dolphin-robot usually when the pump is not running. Should I do it while the pump is running?
I found the manuals and I will read those this weekend. Thank you so much.

Rain doesn't generally affect water chemistry all that much, but can to some degree, depending on the amount. I would recommend that you test your water whenever you're in doubt. You'll get in some good practice that way, and eventually you'll learn how often you need to test and when. Some do that every day, others considerably less. Most of us test FC and pH often, CH and TA less, and CYA and salt just a few times a year. For so many aspects of pool care: your pool will tell you what it needs! We learn here how to listen!

I'm not a robot user, but from what I've read, the pump doesn't need to be running. That's one of the advantages of using a robot.

Keep up the good work and the studying! Have a great weekend.

PS. Geez, you've got a robot, too! Deeeeeeeeelux pool setup!!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

yes, you can run the robot while the pump is on or off. It is entirely independent of the pool mechanics.

Maddie

 

[Muna]

Rain doesn't generally affect water chemistry all that much, but can to some degree, depending on the amount. I would recommend that you test your water whenever you're in doubt. You'll get in some good practice that way, and eventually you'll learn how often you need to test and when. Some do that every day, others considerably less. Most of us test FC and pH often, CH and TA less, and CYA and salt just a few times a year. For so many aspects of pool care: your pool will tell you what it needs! We learn here how to listen!

I'm not a robot user, but from what I've read, the pump doesn't need to be running. That's one of the advantages of using a robot.

Keep up the good work and the studying! Have a great weekend.

PS. Geez, you've got a robot, too! Deeeeeeeeelux pool setup!!

This is my test today.
August 29
FC: 5.8.
PH: 7.8
TA:80
CH: 220
CYA: 30

 

[Mike1162]

I believe CH of 220 is considered low for a concrete pool. Let's see where Dirk or someone else with a concrete pool thinks you should hold the CH reading.

Did you get a chance to watch that video for the Intellichem? You should try lowering the PH set point & see if the Stenner pump comes on. They're kind of noisy so it'll be easy to tell if it's running.

 

[Dirk]

Muna, your numbers are very good. The CH is a tad low, but your CSI is about -0.06, and that's pretty darn good, too. (We're missing water temp and salt to fine tune that CSI number.) CSI is something you might want to get familiar with.

But before you add any calcium, you should test your fill water. If your fill water is low in CH, you could add some calcium to your pool. But if it is high, then your fill water is going to add that calcium for you, and continue to until you're forced to exchange water, as it doesn't evaporate. So starting on the low end of the range means you'll be able to put off a water exchange longer. I think on your side of the country you all don't have to fight with CH like we do, but testing your fill water will confirm that. Start there.

Check this out:

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[kimkats]

I am popping in to say...................WELL DONE EVERYONE!!!! From Muna to all of the helpers! THIS is what TFP is all about!!! to all!

Kim

 

[MohJ]

550 USD for a month .. Holy molly.. Is that normal pricing where you're from?

 

[Muna]

Muna, your numbers are very good. The CH is a tad low, but your CSI is about -0.06, and that's pretty darn good, too. (We're missing water temp and salt to fine tune that CSI number.) CSI is something you might want to get familiar with.

But before you add any calcium, you should test your fill water. If your fill water is low in CH, you could add some calcium to your pool. But if it is high, then your fill water is going to add that calcium for you, and continue to until you're forced to exchange water, as it doesn't evaporate. So starting on the low end of the range means you'll be able to put off a water exchange longer. I think on your side of the country you all don't have to fight with CH like we do, but testing your fill water will confirm that. Start there.

Check this out:

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Hi Dirk, I hope you had a nice weekend. Here is my chemical test today. Thank you
August 31
FC: 5.4
CC: 0.8
PH: 8.0
TA: 100
CH: 250
CYA: less than 30
Salt level: 3,000

 

[Muna]

550 USD for a month .. Holy molly.. Is that normal pricing where you're from?

NOPE. He told us $70 per week in the beginning. We thought that is the total, including chemicals if needed, or salt. When we pay him, it came under the driving fee. We had no idea we had to pay a driving fee too. As far as I know, he lives in the same city that I live in and many customers in our neighborhood. So still did not understand why he charged us even driving fees. It was crazy to look at his breakdown of the service fee.

 

[Dirk]

Numbers look good. Keep an eye on your pH. Until you can figure out that IntelliChem, what it's doing and what you can make it do, you'll have to test and perhaps adjust pH often. Sorry I can't help much with that thing.

Regarding your pool guy, that's pretty outrageous. Maybe it's a supply/demand thing in your neighborhood. The most I ever paid here in CA was $130 per month, plus chemicals, so it sometimes got up to $150. That breaks down to about $38 per visit, all included.

Driving fee? That is not unreasonable for certain trades, say if you needed a specialist that lives somewhere else. But a pool guy's business is mobile! That would imply (to me, anyway) that showing up at your pool is part of the service. Otherwise, at $70 a pop for, what, 15 minutes of work, he's charging you $280 an hour just for semi-skilled labor. Plus travel and materials on top? I'm in the wrong business!

Oh well, he's gone, good riddance. No worries, you'll get all that back and more by caring for your pool yourself and avoiding pool store and pool guy charges. I figure I'm "making" an extra $1800 a year, to have the highest quality water possible! Deal!!

 

[Desert Dog]

Hi Muna,
Are you testing with your Taylor 2006C? Those numbers you are posting look like pool store numbers. Your kit will be more accurate. If not testing with your kit, start getting used to it. Pool stores are known not to be as accurate. Hope your enjoying your pool. Looks very nice.

 

[Muna]

Hi Muna,
Are you testing with your Taylor 2006C? Those numbers you are posting look like pool store numbers. Your kit will be more accurate. If not testing with your kit, start getting used to it. Pool stores are known not to be as accurate. Hope your enjoying your pool. Looks very nice.

Thank you for the response. I am using Taylor 2006 kit. I think I did better in today's test but I am a very new learner. Maybe that is why the number looks like that. Thanks!

 

[Muna]

Numbers look good. Keep an eye on your pH. Until you can figure out that IntelliChem, what it's doing and what you can make it do, you'll have to test and perhaps adjust pH often. Sorry I can't help much with that thing.

Regarding your pool guy, that's pretty outrageous. Maybe it's a supply/demand thing in your neighborhood. The most I ever paid here in CA was $130 per month, plus chemicals, so it sometimes got up to $150. That breaks down to about $38 per visit, all included.

Driving fee? That is not unreasonable for certain trades, say if you needed a specialist that lives somewhere else. But a pool guy's business is mobile! That would imply (to me, anyway) that showing up at your pool is part of the service. Otherwise, at $70 a pop for, what, 15 minutes of work, he's charging you $280 an hour just for semi-skilled labor. Plus travel and materials on top? I'm in the wrong business!

Oh well, he's gone, good riddance. No worries, you'll get all that back and more by caring for your pool yourself and avoiding pool store and pool guy charges. I figure I'm "making" an extra $1800 a year, to have the highest quality water possible! Deal!!

Hi Dirk, Thank you for the response. I am very embarrassed to admit but it looks like my acid tank is empty. Should I fill this up first? Thank you

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Are you testing with your Taylor 2006C? Those numbers you are posting look like pool store numbers.

@Muna, I think what DD is seeing are the FC/CC results of 5.4/0.8; somewhat unconventional numbers for TF-100 users. These numbers indicate you're using a 25 ml sample for chlorine testing. You'll save reagents if you follow the test procedure on your instruction card using a 10 ml sample. Use one scoop of powder. Each drop will count as 0.5. The math is easier too. The 10 ml test will still give you enough accuracy to properly maintain your pool.

 

[Dirk]

Edit: Thanks Mike, you were typing faster than me:

Dog is questioning your numbers because of the decimal fractions (the ".4" and the ".8"). Taylor kits can't really get that kind of resolution, but Pool Store results show those kind of fractions. How are you getting those numbers? If I think my FC is between 5 and 6, I'll call it 5.5. CC is 2 drops = 1 or 1 drop = 0.5, like that. But never more accurate than that, like .4 or a .8.

The question about the tank is much more difficult to advise. Some folks use 31% undiluted, others use the 14%, or dilute the 31% half and half with water. I use 31% but diluted 2 to 1, that ends up about 20% strength. But that's for an IntellipH, which is similar, but different than an IntelliChem. The settings for my unit are dependent on the dilution I use. I can't change the dilution without adjusting the settings. So we first have to figure out what dilution, if any, you're supposed to use for an IntelliChem, and if you use something other than straight acid, if you somehow can tell the Chem what dilution strength of acid is in the tank, or else it'll have no way to know how much to squirt. All of which I have no clue about. First step, see if the Chem manual describes what dilution, if any, to use. Next see if the controls allow you to input the % of acid used. Then give it a go.

Or, which is what I have been advising, is to shut down the IntelliChem, see if the ET can keep the SWG going without it, and dose for pH manually. This will be a good way to control pH while you study the IntelliChem, and it'll give you a feel for your pools acid demand, plus teach you how to dose manually, which is a skill you should have in case the Chem ever fails. And the methods for doing that, and the numbers you give us, are something we can help you with. Sorry, that's all I got. I don't know how to use an IntelliChem, so until you do, or find someone that does, you're going to have to wing it alone, or go manual. In the days we've been working together, no one has stepped up to help us with it, because there's not a lot of folks that have one. It doesn't get discussed much on the forum, so we're not really set up to give good advice about it (or maybe that's just me). Hey, maybe you'll be the one that becomes the expert and can help the next guy!

You've got amazing equipment, but it's a bit outside the norm, so a bit outside our collective knowledge.

 

[Muna]

@Muna, I think what DD is seeing are the FC/CC results of 5.4/0.8; somewhat unconventional numbers for TF-100 users. These numbers indicate you're using a 25 ml sample for chlorine testing. You'll save reagents if you follow the test procedure on your instruction card using a 10 ml sample. Use one scoop of powder. Each drop will count as 0.5. The math is easier too. The 10 ml test will still give you enough accuracy to properly maintain your pool.

I see! Yes, I was using a 25ml sample. I will use 10 ml of sample from now. Thank you so much.

 

[Stenner Tech Support]

@Stenner Tech Support
Hey Stenner man, thanks for checking in. Her Stenner is part of the IntelliChem, yes? Is that stock from Pentair, or after-market? Would there be two of those? Or only one if there's an SWG? I don't see the SWG yet.

Hi Dirk,

The pump would probably be part of the Intellichem system and from their stock. Let us know if you need further assistance.

 

[Muna]

Hi Dirk,

The pump would probably be part of the Intellichem system and from their stock. Let us know if you need further assistance. (800-683-2378 ask for Tech Dept.) or email: [email protected]

Thank you!

 

[Muna]

Thank you!

Thank you, Dirk, for the information.
I will contact the pump tech and find more information about the pump.
Last night I filled up the acid tank with muriatic acid (I hope I did not mess up with it). I test the pool water today, and the result is here.
Sep 2
FC: 8-9
CC: 1
PH: 7.4
TA: 100
CH: 275
CYA: less than 30 (did not test it today it was from yesterday)
Salt level: 3,000
# What should I do now? Please suggest.
# The FC is too high. Right? Should I lower? If yes, how do I do that?
I appreciate all the help. Thank you so much.