2018: Fiberglass install uxbridge ointario

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So we've been in the pool the last 2 nights. I wanted to test the heater out last night and the air was cold so I had her up to 92.
In 24 hours with the heater off and cover on it lost 7 degrees which isn't that bad, I dont think.

Did some wiring today. I wanna get that salt cell running and the pal lighting. I have been manually chlorinating.
I will have 3 new circuits. One dedicated 20amp @ 115v for the pump and 2 other 15 amp.
 

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Got more wiring done today. I've been really motivated to get this done specially after working 12 hour shifts.

My controller and salt are running. My salt display says 3300. My salt tests with the tf-100 indicated 3900 and salt test strips that came with the Aquarite said 3400. Who to believe. lol

One thing I am uncertain of, does the aquarite produce salt every time the pump comes on? Because I can see myself running the pump for longer on days we intend to swim and not so much on the days we dont. Trying to understand this.
 

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You will need to work out how much chlorine generation you need per day and run the pump long enough to produce it. What size is your cell? The first piece of info that helps work this out is what you can producein a 24 hr period at 100%. Btw, the pump can run with or without the swg on, but the swg can only work with the pump running.

Eg. In my 24k gal pool using a t15 cell, I produce about 1.4 lb of chlorine gas per 24 hour periodor roughly 1 ounce per hour.

Using pool math (the bottom “effects” section, I know that 1.4 lb of chlorine gas in 24k gallons of water equals roughly 7.9 ppm of FC — so that’s my max production at 100% over 24 hrs. Assuming I only need about 25% (or less) of that in a day, my options are to run the pump 6 hours at 100%, or 12 hours at 50%, or 24 hrs at 25%, etc.

What I do in open season (as opposed to dome when FC loss is very low so I only run the swg for a few hours) is run the swg during daylight hours so there’s a steady stream of production against the sun...so 9 - 9 at 50% or less. But I have a variable speed pump so I can run that at a low rpm to save energy. Others might prefer shorter pump run times so might run it 9-3 pm at 100%.

I like running my pump more because living in the woods I get a lot of debris and need the skimming action to keep clear of leaves and everything else that blows in ;) Having a sand filter, I’m also a fan of the extra polishing longer run times gives the water. Others prefer shorter runs.

Hope that helps give you a start in your thinking of run times. A bit of experimentation will get it sorted.
 
Swampwoman said:
You will need to work out how much chlorine generation you need per day and run the pump long enough to produce it. What size is your cell? The first piece of info that helps work this out is what you can producein a 24 hr period at 100%. Btw, the pump can run with or without the swg on, but the swg can only work with the pump running.

Eg. In my 24k gal pool using a t15 cell, I produce about 1.4 lb of chlorine gas per 24 hour periodor roughly 1 ounce per hour.

Using pool math (the bottom “effects” section, I know that 1.4 lb of chlorine gas in 24k gallons of water equals roughly 7.9 ppm of FC — so that’s my max production at 100% over 24 hrs. Assuming I only need about 25% (or less) of that in a day, my options are to run the pump 6 hours at 100%, or 12 hours at 50%, or 24 hrs at 25%, etc.

What I do in open season (as opposed to dome when FC loss is very low so I only run the swg for a few hours) is run the swg during daylight hours so there’s a steady stream of production against the sun...so 9 - 9 at 50% or less. But I have a variable speed pump so I can run that at a low rpm to save energy. Others might prefer shorter pump run times so might run it 9-3 pm at 100%.

I like running my pump more because living in the woods I get a lot of debris and need the skimming action to keep clear of leaves and everything else that blows in ;) Having a sand filter, I’m also a fan of the extra polishing longer run times gives the water. Others prefer shorter runs.

Hope that helps give you a start in your thinking of run times. A bit of experimentation will get it sorted.
Click to expand...

Thanks swampy.

I guess my thought was since we need heat a lot in my neck of the woods, that on the days we will be swimming the pump will be running a lot more than days we dont. As a by product of that, we will ne producing a lot more chlorine. Unless of course I manually shut off salt cell.

It's a T9 I believe. for 25k
 
That one produces .7 lbs a day or .46 oz chlorine gas per hour.

So in a 6500 pool, .46 oz of chlorine gas nets you .5 ppm FC per hour run. So if you find you need about 2 ppm of FC a day, that would be a 4 hr run at 100% to produce it. If you have a timer on the swg, you could j7st set it to run 4 hrs a day in that case, and not be running it the entire time you’re heating.

I use a comparatively cheap Intermatic pe653 automation system to time my pump, swg, and heater runs on schedules that more or less keep the FC, temp and clarity where I want it ;) Now and then I adjust either the time run or percentage on the swg to account for lots of swimmers or overproduction, etc.
 
Swampwoman said:
That one produces .7 lbs a day or .46 oz chlorine gas per hour.

So in a 6500 pool, .46 oz of chlorine gas nets you .5 ppm FC per hour run. So if you find you need about 2 ppm of FC a day, that would be a 4 hr run at 100% to produce it. If you have a timer on the swg, you could j7st set it to run 4 hrs a day in that case, and not be running it the entire time you’re heating.

I use a comparatively cheap Intermatic pe653 automation system to time my pump, swg, and heater runs on schedules that more or less keep the FC, temp and clarity where I want it ;) Now and then I adjust either the time run or percentage on the swg to account for lots of swimmers or overproduction, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much!!!
 

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So, building a shed over the equipment has been a complete back and forth battle within myself. As it sits now I am not doing it.

I will put a small awning on the wall over my electronics. Got all the wires cleaned up today. Just waiting on delivery of my Jandy electronic autofiller. (another item I went back and forth on)
Being such a small pool, it doesn't take too many belly flops to drop the level a couple inches. The autofiller will be a nice feature and it cannot be added after concrete.
 

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Me? I would NOT build a "shed" around it....I think it will add more problems than anything. It would make it harder to work on the equipment. I DO like the idea of the awning to protect the electronics.

I like the auto fill idea as you will not have to pull a hose across the decking to add water to your pool. I WOULD make sure you can turn it off as wanted. You never know when you might want to turn it off for some reason.

So..............how much water do you lose with a good belly flop???????? LOL

Kim:kim:
 
That water is looking awesome!!! The yard will get there....take your time. It will get done in time. Give your back time to heal after all of the work.

He did WHAT?? to the decking post??? Nope, nope, nope.........Glad you saw it and know how to fix it. What else did he booger up? Oh wait, the fence posts :roll: One day you will be done fixing his mess ups and can do what you WANT to do the house.

Share a still pic of the equipment with your question about where to put it. That will give us time to really look at it and do some thinking.

Kim:kim:
 
kimkats said:
That water is looking awesome!!! The yard will get there....take your time. It will get done in time. Give your back time to heal after all of the work.

He did WHAT?? to the decking post??? Nope, nope, nope.........Glad you saw it and know how to fix it. What else did he booger up? Oh wait, the fence posts :roll: One day you will be done fixing his mess ups and can do what you WANT to do the house.

Share a still pic of the equipment with your question about where to put it. That will give us time to really look at it and do some thinking.

Kim:kim:
Click to expand...

In Canada and probably most any climate where frost runs deep we typically use a 8" or larger concrete caisson 4' down and that's what the deck sits on. I can't fix this the right way. I'm.gonna jack up and put larger concrete footing on grade. not ideal.

A pic from this evening.
 

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Hi girls!!! Are you loving what Dad has done for you??? That has to make it all worth it!! That and how fast they climb into bed and fall asleep after swimming! LOL

Kim's question time-can you tell me more how you will fix the deck footing? "concrete footing on grade"-I am not 100% what "on grade" means.

Kim:kim:
 
Well, I'm not gonna tear deck half apart, drill and put concrete caisson so I will likely jack up. Then get something like a 2" thick paver. Probably 12" square and put under 4 x 4's. On grade = sitting on the ground.
As it sits now. the 4 x 4 is on a 4" x 6" brick that has pushed down into the soil.
 

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