1st time pool guy

dtrebus

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Bronze Supporter
Apr 9, 2020
122
Claremore, OK
Pool Size
17200
Surface
Vinyl
SWG Type
CircuPool Core-55
When investigating buying a pool, and chemical systems to use, I encountered alot of hits on TFP from my searches. Seems like an awesome forum with members that deal with pools, not dealers trying to sell you stuff.
I just had a 27' round above ground pool that is partially buried (18"). I finally have it filled. I just need to work on backfilling and getting electrician out on Monday to run a line to pump. Was just going to use dirt to backfill and have it slope up toward pool for water runoff.
The company I got the pool from gave me intro kit for PristineBlue, but with all the things I have read, I decided to start and stay with a Chlorine system. What would be the best analyzer for chemicals, and how much Chlorine and other chemicals should I get to start the process?

I know that's alot in an intro thread, but trying to get things ready so it's not sitting around with plain water. Thank you and look forward to being a part of TFP
 
Welcome! :wave: The TF-100 test kit (or Taylor K-2006C) is what you want for chlorine testing, to include the other levels required. Smart choice to avoid the "Blue" product. :goodjob: See our recommended levels and other Vital Links below in my signature for additional info. Don't forget to update your sig as well. Post full set of results when you get your test kit and we'll walk you through the process.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 
Welcome. I second the recommendations of test kits and chemicals by Texas Splash. If you don’t want to spring for the K-2006C, the K-2006 is the same kit with smaller reagent bottles.

Buy some chlorine. Get at least 10 gals. to start (so you are not making a lot of trips). Cheapest way is to find someone who can supply and refill 55 gal. drum. However, that is impractical for most. You can also buy those 2 gallon yellow jugs and get refilled. Next choice is just buying 10% chlorine 1 gallon containers at pool store, Lowe’s, Home Depot, Walmart, etc.

Not sure if you will need until after testing, but most likely you will need chlorine stabilizer (cyanuric acid (CYA)).

Good luck!
 
Thank you. I don't know how many gallons my pool is. seen estimates from 20k -22k gallons for 27' round. Buying a test kit and will have chlorine ready for after the electrician wires up the pump.
Would pool store be best place to get some chemicals, like CYA, or are there any better suggestions from cost standpoint on the internet?
Thanks for your help
 
Randrx2, I assume you won't add all 10 gallons at once, that seems like a lot, but I don't want to add too little at a time, and have more tests wasted, so is there a equation like: x gallons bleach/10000gal water?
 
Randrx2, I assume you won't add all 10 gallons at once, that seems like a lot, but I don't want to add too little at a time, and have more tests wasted, so is there a equation like: x gallons bleach/10000gal water?
Sorry. But I meant to have 10 gals to have on hand. Once you know your pool volume, there will be X oz. of Cl per X gals. of pool water for a 1PPM rise in TC. For example, on a 20,000 gal pool: Adding 26oz of 10% chlorine will make TC rise 1PPM.

You will be adding the chlorine through the summer. So having some on hand is good. You can lose 2-4PPM per day in the sun.

Most important is getting your test results. In the meantime, since this is initial fill, you can dump in 1 gallon and be safe. Then just a 1/4 gallon daily until you can get circulation and test kit. Also, you can brush pool to help circulation after you add chlorine.

Lowe's and Home Depot carry the chlorine and stabilizer (CYA). Walmart also, although sometimes they do not have stabilizer.
 
Get the TFTestkits TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006C. The smaller K-2006 is not a good value.

Get the above suggested dosage of chlorine into your pool and then you need to TEST YOUR WATER. You can't get your water where it needs to be if you don't know where it is. Post your test results and we'll help you get it where it needs to be.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
 
Rand, I thought that was what you meant but just double checking ;-)
Ordered a Taylor K-2006C and will add bleach today. When I get kit, I will post my values. Thanks
 
If you search for CYA at the stores, it'll be hard to find. Look for "chlorine stabilizer/conditioner" and confirm by checking the label for "100% cyanuric acid." You can find five to seven pound bags at HD, Lowes, and WalMart and probably better bargains on Amazon.
 

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Get the TFTestkits TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006C. The smaller K-2006 is not a good value.

Get the above suggested dosage of chlorine into your pool and then you need to TEST YOUR WATER. You can't get your water where it needs to be if you don't know where it is. Post your test results and we'll help you get it where it needs to be.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
Good point. For some reason I thought the 2006-C was oddly more than twice the price. I think I was getting the 2006C and 2006C-Salt, etc. mixed up. Thanks!
 
Finally got pool backfilled, and got Taylor K-2006C in (oredered it 2 weeks ago, but someone in UPS never logged it in, so it was lost and they had to send out a new one).
I've seen on TFP to use FAS-DPD for chlorine, but the kit also free, combined, and total chlorine. Is there any advantages to using one test over another? I will post my results when I get them...
 
The FAS-DPD is the only accurate way to measure FC and CC. The OTO (yellow comparator) is just to see if chlorine is in the water. It is not accurate.
 
well, I have 0 free chlorine, less that 30. I guess the pH is less than 7.0 since it was a yellowish/greenish tint. and The CYA tube is clear when filled up, and lowest level on tube is 30. So i Guess i need a ton of chlorine, borax and CYA. I have 6 1 lb bags of tricloro shock so that could add FC and CYA to the pool correct? According to pool math, i would need over 400lbs of borax. Am I looking at this wrong? Please advise
 
"d', now that you have your K-2006C, let's step back and start over to make sure we have the full picture:
- What is current the condition of your pool water? Crystal clear, green, cloudy, etc? Do you see plumes of green if you sweep?
- Was stabilizer (CYA) ever added to the new water when filled? Remember new water has no CYA in it.
- Please re-post all of your test results as follows:
FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

Makes it much easier to scan and follow. If you have ANY questions about how to perform any test, let us know.
 
The water is crystal clear. I may have added 2 gallons of chlorine over the past 3 weeks. No CYA was added. when I did the FAS-DPD test, I added 5 more dippers more than the first 2 and still didn't turn pink (so didn't want to waste all of it). CYA test had totally clear water. The pH had a green/yellow color which would be below the 7.0 color. TA is 80ppm and CH is 90ppm
 
1. Bring your pH up into the mid 7's using 20 mule team borax.

2. Get some chlorine in your pool ASAP. Use regular bleach or swimming pool chlorine but get it in there TODAY if possible. About one gallon is a safe initial dose.

3. Calculate a dosage of CYA that will get you to 30 ppm and get it into your pool.

4. put another gal or so of liquid chlorine in your pool tomorrow as well and then post FC and CH again......no need to retest CYA for now.............get your pH and FC where they belong.

5, Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
 
Stores around here don't have CYA in stock, so have to order online. About the Trichlor shock that someone gave me.... could I use that this one time since it produces some CYA?
Thank you
 
If you search for CYA at the stores, it'll be hard to find. Look for "chlorine stabilizer/conditioner" and confirm by checking the label for "100% cyanuric acid." You can find five to seven pound bags at HD, Lowes, and WalMart and probably better bargains on Amazon.
Is Home Depot too far? They have it in stock
 

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