16 July 2024 Finishing Up my OB Pool

I'm late to the ethernet party, but know we ran over 6k feet of ethernet when we built the house. Extreme? Probably. But at the time, Cat6 was cheap and it can do so much, so we ran it everywhere, and used colors for different purposes. To this day, we still have hundreds of un-used runs, but do use a lot if it....

Wiring 3.JPG

wiring 1.JPG

When you are building, it is so much easier to run it now. Even after all that wire, in the last few years we have ran even more. Didn't think we would have a pool when we built the house, so the new backyard space had to get all new runs as well.

I am also the kind of guy that will hard wire over wireless all day long. Video, internet, audio, even controls are run off all that wire.
 
Sorry to hijack for a min. But while everyone is on a cat 6 chat. How far can Ethernet cable be run and still be effective for both POE and signal? I want to run an access point and a couple cameras on my new pier being built. Will be about 200-250 feet max from the switch to the pier. Is this too long of run? If it is are there amplifiers that can be installed to make it work or am I SOL? I could potentially wire in separate power if needed and just use cat 6-7 for signal. But less wires getting run the better IMO. Keeps it simple.
 
Sorry to hijack for a min. But while everyone is on a cat 6 chat. How far can Ethernet cable be run and still be effective for both POE and signal? I want to run an access point and a couple cameras on my new pier being built. Will be about 200-250 feet max from the switch to the pier. Is this too long of run? If it is are there amplifiers that can be installed to make it work or am I SOL? I could potentially wire in separate power if needed and just use cat 6-7 for signal. But less wires getting run the better IMO. Keeps it simple.
Technically, 100m (330ft). That is the spec. Regarding PoE, some will depend on how much power (how many watts) the powered device (PD) needs.
Standard PoE (802.3af) is designed for a maximum delivered power of 12.95W to a powered device. That accounts for losses in the cable at max length, as the power sourcing equipment (PSE)...your switch or inserter, can output up to 15.4W @ 57Volts and the PD can operate between 37-57V.

If you need more power then that, PoE+ (802.3at) can deliver 25.5W at the PD. There are newer standards in work to deliver more, but PoE and PoE+ are your best bet for commonly available equipment.
 
Sorry to hijack for a min. But while everyone is on a cat 6 chat. How far can Ethernet cable be run and still be effective for both POE and signal? I want to run an access point and a couple cameras on my new pier being built. Will be about 200-250 feet max from the switch to the pier. Is this too long of run? If it is are there amplifiers that can be installed to make it work or am I SOL? I could potentially wire in separate power if needed and just use cat 6-7 for signal. But less wires getting run the better IMO. Keeps it simple.

There are various CAT6-POE extenders on the market that let you go another 300 feet.

I have used them in wiring security cameras in parking lots.
 
OK another pump question. In general, I think there's pretty good agreement the Pentair VS pump is the best one on the market. My design company has an arrangement with Hayward that gives me access to preferred pricing and warranty. What do you all think about the Tristar VS 950? It's 2.7 hp and has built in RS 485 control plus digital input (with 3 inputs all standard 18-30 vac or 9-30dc) for control of up to 8 speeds. This is pretty big for me since I prefer to use one of the "build your own" control systems and I really don't want to mess with protocol interfaces.

Chris
Anecdotally, the Pentair seems to have better longevity than the Hayward. Probably because it is overbuilt, so even at full load it's only being used to a fraction of its capability (my understanding is that the 3HP perm. magnet motor is in reality a 5HP peak motor. But if you don't plan to run the pump full-bore much, the Hayward is probably the better value. The Hayward is also slightly more energy efficient. This is likely due to 2 factors: (1) that Pentair being overbuilt and (2) the Hayward's electronics on idle seem to burn much less power than the Pentair's & I would assume that is a constant offset between the wattage on those 2 pumps.

I'm not on a VS pump right now, but watching with great interest for the next time I'm in the market for a pump. Right now I'd lean Pentair because of the longevity and the fact that the wet end is the same as the Whisperflo which I am very familiar with. But I'm hesitant in general because we're on kind of Gen 1.5 of the residential VS pool pumps. My only worry with them is the durability of the drive electronics. I've had enough issues with my Hayward Pro-Logic electronics to be a little leery of going that direction in the future, but time will tell.

That's just all my opinion as an observer. I'm hoping that by the time I need a new pump, we are on a true 2nd generation of the residential VS pool pumps and everything has matured.

I think if you have a good warranty, either pump will be fine.
 
Technically, 100m (330ft). That is the spec. Regarding PoE, some will depend on how much power (how many watts) the powered device (PD) needs.
Standard PoE (802.3af) is designed for a maximum delivered power of 12.95W to a powered device. That accounts for losses in the cable at max length, as the power sourcing equipment (PSE)...your switch or inserter, can output up to 15.4W @ 57Volts and the PD can operate between 37-57V.

If you need more power then that, PoE+ (802.3at) can deliver 25.5W at the PD. There are newer standards in work to deliver more, but PoE and PoE+ are your best bet for commonly available equipment.
ok awesome. I should be well under 330. I have a Switch that is far overkill for my application. (POE is 8 cameras and 5 access points including the new stuff). It has 16 POE+ and 8 POE++ so I will be safe and plug those long runs into the ++ ports to make sure they get proper power. I appreciate the info.
 
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ok awesome. I should be well under 330. I have a Switch that is far overkill for my application. (POE is 8 cameras and 5 access points including the new stuff). It has 16 POE+ and 8 POE++ so I will to be safe plug those long runs into the ++ ports to make sure they get proper power. I appreciate the info.
Check the maximum power output of the switch.
Many switches have 8 or 16 PoE or PoE+ ports, but will have a maximum power capacity that is insufficient to power everything at max simultaneously.

So you need to add up the consumption of all the PDs that will be powered from that switch and make sure the switch can support that +15%.

For example, 8 ports of PoE running full-load (12.95W ea.) = 103.6 (call it 104) watts. +15% gives 120W. Technically, the PSE (switch) needs to do 8x 15.4 = 123.2 watts, but that's where my 15% rule-of-thumb comes from...close enough.

You will find that a lot of 8-port PoE switches only can source 60 or 80 watts. So if you have a lot of low-power devices that are like 5 watts, then you're good as you stay within the budget of the switch. Just remember that just because it says it has 8 PoE ports doesn't mean it can support 247 watts output. Nor do you typically need it to.
 
Check the maximum power output of the switch.
Many switches have 8 or 16 PoE or PoE+ ports, but will have a maximum power capacity that is insufficient to power everything at max simultaneously.

So you need to add up the consumption of all the PDs that will be powered from that switch and make sure the switch can support that +15%.

For example, 8 ports of PoE running full-load (12.95W ea.) = 103.6 (call it 104) watts. +15% gives 120W. Technically, the PSE (switch) needs to do 8x 15.4 = 123.2 watts, but that's where my 15% rule-of-thumb comes from...close enough.

You will find that a lot of 8-port PoE switches only can source 60 or 80 watts. So if you have a lot of low-power devices that are like 5 watts, then you're good as you stay within the budget of the switch. Just remember that just because it says it has 8 PoE ports doesn't mean it can support 247 watts output. Nor do you typically need it to.
good catch, 400 watts max it says. I presume thats across all 21 ports. I have the Ubiquiti switch pro 24 poe. 7 Cameras are 12.5W each and 1 big pan and zoom camera is 42.5W. Access points are 16.5W. So I should only be a little over half its capacity. So room for expansion In the future.
 
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Hey, I absolutely love both. Having dealt with redwood siding, T-111, cedar shingles, asphalt shingles and worse all my life, I absolutely love my concrete exterior. It'll last longer than me, probably will never need repair or paint, and from inside my house, looks exactly like any other exterior I've ever lived in! ;)
Until you have to screw something to the wall....
 
Until you have to screw something to the wall....
I've done it plenty. Concrete drill and any of these types of anchors. It's not as easy as wood, of course, but it's no biggie.

10416196.jpg
To get rid of a no-longer needed anchor, I just push it farther in and squirt in a little colored caulk.

And I've added exterior electrical and plumbing fixtures by drilling through the stucco in whatever shape I need. I calculate where the studs are by measuring from the inside. Where there's a will, there's a way.

Believe me, I would much rather deal with the "inconvenience" of stucco a few times than prep and paint an entire house of wood siding.
 
BTW. Who says stucco does not need to be painted? This guy with a CBS house just had his whole outside repainted. I anticipate the paint to probably last about 15 or so years, but you do need to repaint.

Every house exterior needs maintenance.

After about 15 years I had my stucco finish recoated to seal spider cracks and all of the windows recaulked.

You can pay now and keep the house shell weatherproof or pay later with rot and mold repairs.
 
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BTW. Who says stucco does not need to be painted? This guy with a CBS house just had his whole outside repainted. I anticipate the paint to probably last about 15 or so years, but you do need to repaint.
Why? My color is in the stucco. 11 years and it still looks new! It might get dingy, but I am hoping a pressure wash will restore it well enough, should the need arise. And so far, it hasn't.
 
Every house exterior needs maintenance.

After about 15 years I had my stucco finish recoated to seal spider cracks and all of the windows recaulked.

You can pay now and keep the house shell weatherproof or pay later with rot and mold repairs.
That sounds possible. But I suspect my post-tension slab will have a hand in minimizing cracks. And my windows aren't caulked. We'll see.

But you're all right. Wishful thinking, maybe, on my part. Now, my wooden eves... that's a different story...
 
Why? My color is in the stucco. 11 years and it still looks new! It might get dingy, but I am hoping a pressure wash will restore it well enough, should the need arise. And so far, it hasn't.

I am surprised being in the State that shakes and your anal maintenance focus that you don't have spider cracks on your stucco.

And what is the condition of the caulking around your windows? No shrinkage or pulling away from the window frame or stucco?
 
Allen: "Made ya look!"
Dirk: "Well, you made me curious!"

I found three very short cracks, two near the same door. I'll keep an eye on those. Maybe I'll caulk them. One is under my patio overhang. So that one will stay dry.

Windows are sealed tight. Really tight. I don't have trim. It's all stucco. It looks like trim, painted like trim, but it's just stucco-covered styrofoam (or whatever they use for the shaping). The stucco wraps all the way around it and seals to the vinyl window framing. I was surprised just now that it is still completely tight.

I probably just jinxed it all! But having lived in wooden houses up until now, with separate, wooden door and window trim and special z-flashing everywhere... no thanks.

I'm sure all this is very climate-dependent, and we're all going to have a difference experience depending on weather extremes.
 
Allen: "Made ya look!"
Dirk: "Well, you made me curious!"

Keep on looking. Especially on corners.

I am not going to hijack Chris' thread anymore on critiquing your house. If you want we can start a new thread and comare pics of East Coast versus West Coast stucco construction methods.
 

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