Finally, it is on! Southeast PA Build

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Papers say not to exceed 200 for the first 28 days so u r in the limit right now. If it is rising I wouldn’t add anything cause hem u might go above the 200.

My startup from diamond brite gave me a range of 200 to 400 so I took it to 200 and stopped and let it ride it out. It kept ris My a bit over the weeks. But that was my pool.

If ur in range and it is keepIng ur csi in check then I wouldn’t do anything. Easier to rise it vs lowering it.
 
Thanks, now I am hoping the finish gets a lot darker. I don't see how that's possible, but the finish in the pool is much lighter than the sample. Has anyone seen a finish get many shades darker? I know of one instance, but not sure if that is common.
 
The reason I said to ere on the side of caution was because the member here who guided me throughout my break in always said to stay on the safer end of the ranges. That’s why I gave the advice I did. Someone else might chime in.

Regarding finish getting darker. I couldn’t get over how much of the quartz came out in mine when they did the light acid wash. Amazing. They told me as I brushed I would remove more of the light dust which would again bring out more color as in more of the quartz. Did that happen. I think very little. Did my water color change no. But I have quartz and that was just in my pool.

I know now that doesn’t really help but it was my experience.
 
Thanks, a lot of the aggregate got exposed in the past week. I doubt much more change will happen sadly. I worry that more aggressive means will etch the surface too hard so I am going the cautious route and bringing it up with the builder. If others experience in this forum are any indicator, im sure they'll give me the run around.
 
Here's a pic of the sample (left) inside the pool. I don't think the material covering up the aggregate is the cream and is the actual color of the plaster. I say this since I have been brushing for a week now and have added acid twice (2 gallons each time to keep ph at 7.2). Anyone think there could be darker material behind this and so should I wait longer before pressing the issue with the PB?


Screen Shot 2017-10-01 at 9.45.56 AM.jpg
 
So it looks more and more like they got the plaster wrong. If it gets replaced, is a chip out the only way to go? Will that not last as long or be as durable as the current job that was installed on new gunite?
 
A chip out and reapply will be essentially the same as a new install. I’d have no concerns about that. Tile may get messed up too but that should also be taken care of.

One option to consider is a hefty cash settlement in lieu of replacement. One reason being that it will fade in a few short years and look very much like what is applied now anyway. Just a fact of life for darker plasters. Assuming the pebbles are the same and the plaster is the main difference.
 
Really? My neighbor has a dark blue one going on 12 years and it looks great still. Maybe only grey/blacks one noticeably fade? My current plaster is super light, almost white.
 

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I have a couple of pics to share with you:

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This is one of our expert's pool plaster. He had them do a warranty repair on this spot. You can see how fast it faded. The pool was less than I year old at this point (I think). This pool has only known the TFP way and had excellent care from the moment it was applied.
 
kimkats said:
I have a couple of pics to share with you:

.....

This is one of our expert's pool plaster. He had them do a warranty repair on this spot. You can see how fast it faded. The pool was less than I year old at this point (I think). This pool has only known the TFP way and had excellent care from the moment it was applied.
Click to expand...

Sorry, it's hard to tell what's going on here with the different lighting. The patch looks purplish to me and not necessarily darker than the surrounding plaster...looks more like a color match issue between batches.

I found the post and understand now. The blue inside the broken spot is the original blue color. The exterior is how it faded.

Maybe it makes sense then to go with an even darker plaster? Based on this advice, it would seem my current finish will get even lighter, maybe white. So one way or another fading will happen. Not sure how even this fading will be so if I did get re-plastered, I may be opening up myself to mottling that is more apparent. Interesting to think about. Can someone confirm my thinking (go with darker might mean more visible mottling and/or my current plaster will likely fade to white)?
 
Another thought is that maybe the fading seen in other pools is from when they used to use dye packs vs now when the color is integral in the pre-mixed product (in bag dry plaster)? I'll call the manufacturer and ask after I hear from the builder on next steps.
 
So the builder and CLI are still working through what happened as it relates to differences in the final color of the plaster and the samples. As far as the sounds coming from the multi-port at RPMs above 3,000, the technician that came out determined it to be cavitation due to pressure. When I turn off my floor returns and one of the two skimmers, the sound goes away. Now the question is do I need the multi-port for any reason with a cartridge filter? I know I will never have to backwash, but what if I get an algae bloom and need to vacuum to waste? Is that valid or are there other reasons to keep the multi-port? I will never run at that high RPM unless I am vacuuming or priming the pump. Thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Ok after a long break, everything has been sorted out. I'm keeping the plaster and trying to ensure that all fittings match as best possible (post here). I closed in late November and opened the first week of April. I had minor scale build up, which seems to be coming off slowly with brushing. Once we get more landscaping in and final fittings, I'll post more pics. I'll flip on the SWG in June for the final system test after salt gets added.

Thanks all for the help!
 
So I looked high and low without much luck. I am hoping to find an adapter plate like the one I cited over here. Anyone know of anything similar? The manufacturer of the plate in that post must be purchased with the cover, which I do not need, and only comes in black. I am hoping to find an adapter so I can attach my low profile cover to the existing mud ring in the plaster without adding any more height. I am not sure what these adapter rings would be called if this is an actual standard fitting that exists out there.
 
Bumping this up in the hopes someone else may have some suggestions on adapter plates for retrofitting a drain cover over my returns. I know...I cannot believe I have drain covers on my returns....
 
I have not found anything. I am going to pm someone who may have an idea. I am going to PM them from your other thread so they can see what you are dealing with. Any way you can take and share a pic of the return without the cover on it? It would be also helpful for you to measure it and tell if has threads or such so they will know the best item to help you out.

Kim:kim:
 

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