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Thread: Confused

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    jasnovanorder's Avatar
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    Confused

    Here is my issue. Thanks to funky weather and a tree I'm in the process of doing a SLAM. My issue is I still have green cloudy water but I'm not losing any chlorine. Started this past Friday and had steady chlorine loss till Monday night. My CYA is 40 so my SLAM level is 16. Monday night test showed chlorine at 10 so added bleach to bring it up. Ended up over shooting a bit and was at 18 an hour later. Tested Tuesday morning and was right at 16. Wife tested again Tuesday afternoon and still 16. Tested late last night. Still 16. Tested this morning twice. Still 16. Vacuumed after. Just checked again and I'm at 20. Tested 3 times and all 3 were the same. Haven't added any bleach since Monday night and somehow the chlorine level stayed the same and then went up. What the devil is going on?
    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
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    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Confused

    Silly question, but is there anything else that could be adding FC to the water (in-line chlorinator, floater w/ pucks, etc). No SWG correct?
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Confused

    There are no pucks sitting in the skimmer somewhere? Not equipped with a salt water chlorine generator?
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
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    Re: Confused

    No pucks and no SWG. Only chemicals added since last Friday were bleach CYA and acid to bring the pH down
    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
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    Re: Confused

    I imagine it is still a bit chilly in Michigan. What is your water temperature?
    Matt
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    Re: Confused

    FC can't go up without adding more. It has to be test error/variation if nothing has been added to the pool.
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    Re: Confused

    What test kit are you using? Can you post a picture of the water? It can't be very warm with the weather we've been having around here.
    30K? gal (20x40, 3ft shallow to 8-9ft hopper), Vinyl IG, single speed 1HP pump, Hayward Micro Clear DE-3600 filter, Hayward Aqua Rite SWG T15 Cell, Rheem/Raypack M206A heater

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    Re: Confused

    No clue on water temp other than really cold. Kids broke our thermometer last fall

    - - - Updated - - -

    Test kit is a TF100. I thought it could be test error that's why I have started testing multiple times with a new sample from different areas in the pool. That's the confusing thing. I will get a pic later today
    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
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    Re: Confused

    If the water is "really" cold and you have no active algae growth (algae effectively stops reproducing at water temperatures below 60F), then your FC loss will be minimal. During the winter months, when my pool water is in the upper 40's and just sitting open (I don't close here), I can literally go weeks without ever having to add chlorine. My FC will sit at 3-4ppm and stay there for weeks on end. This last winter, I think used approximately one gallon of bleach for 4 straight months....that's how low FC loss will be when it has nothing to oxidize and UV loss is low.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: Confused

    Quote Originally Posted by JoyfulNoise View Post
    If the water is "really" cold and you have no active algae growth (algae effectively stops reproducing at water temperatures below 60F), then your FC loss will be minimal. During the winter months, when my pool water is in the upper 40's and just sitting open (I don't close here), I can literally go weeks without ever having to add chlorine. My FC will sit at 3-4ppm and stay there for weeks on end. This last winter, I think used approximately one gallon of bleach for 4 straight months....that's how low FC loss will be when it has nothing to oxidize and UV loss is low.
    I doubt the water temp is above 60. We only have had a handful of days above 60 as it is.
    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
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    Re: Confused

    Quote Originally Posted by jasnovanorder View Post
    I doubt the water temp is above 60. We only have had a handful of days above 60 as it is.
    I really think this is just a combination of very cold water, poor mixing (due to cold water and specific gravity differences between water and bleach) and testing error (no offense to the tester, but it happens all the time).

    Just let it ride for now. The cloudiness and coloration could just be from poor circulation and pollen (or whatever the "tree" event was??). If you had algae, you'd have FC loss. Keep filtering and vacuuming the best you can. You're not really going to go swimming anyway, so you can just monitor the situation for now and keep the FC elevated.

    Just to be sure, do you have any issues with iron in your water? Are you using a well to fill the pool? Iron, when it oxidizes turns pure water a yellowish color which, when mixed with a blue background will make pool water look green like green-tea.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: Confused

    Quote Originally Posted by JoyfulNoise View Post
    Just to be sure, do you have any issues with iron in your water? Are you using a well to fill the pool? Iron, when it oxidizes turns pure water a yellowish color which, when mixed with a blue background will make pool water look green like green-tea.
    Iron is something you can have the pool store test to get an idea where you are at. Just don't buy anything they suggest.

    - - - Updated - - -

    20160605_080522.jpg

    This is what my water looked like when it was clean but had iron precipitating.
    30K? gal (20x40, 3ft shallow to 8-9ft hopper), Vinyl IG, single speed 1HP pump, Hayward Micro Clear DE-3600 filter, Hayward Aqua Rite SWG T15 Cell, Rheem/Raypack M206A heater

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    Re: Confused

    No iron issues. This is the same water that it was filled with last spring plus whatever was added from snow and rain.
    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
    My Slam

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    Re: Confused

    Here are a couple pics.



    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
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    Re: Confused

    Just checked again and FC is still holding at 16. Vacuumed again and still sucked out a ton of sludge. I'm really hoping that's my issue but that still doesn't explain the lack of FC loss
    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
    My Slam

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    Re: Confused

    Are you brushing? Algae forms a biofilm that can resist chlorine - the brush disrupts that film and allows the chlorinated water to get at the algae itself.

    Being that green, and not clear, I'm going to say it's an algae/organics problem, especially since you're getting a lot of sludge out. The sludge itself may be mostly inert due to chlorine at the moment - which may explain the green and cloudiness, but that stuff has to be scooped out/filtered out to get you clean and clear. For now, you should stay at SLAM levels while you're scooping, filtering, etc. Let's see the water itself get clear before we start checking other potential issues.
    8,500gal plaster in-ground with attached spa, two floor drains, one skimmer. Chlorine, City Water.
    Pentair WhisperFlo 1hp Pump, MagnaTek Midcentury EPlus motor, Pentair CleanNClear 200SF Cartridge filter, Purex Triton MiniMax 250 Gas Heater, Pentair SunLite, AutoFill.
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    Re: Confused

    Quote Originally Posted by triptyx View Post
    Are you brushing? Algae forms a biofilm that can resist chlorine - the brush disrupts that film and allows the chlorinated water to get at the algae itself.

    Being that green, and not clear, I'm going to say it's an algae/organics problem, especially since you're getting a lot of sludge out. The sludge itself may be mostly inert due to chlorine at the moment - which may explain the green and cloudiness, but that stuff has to be scooped out/filtered out to get you clean and clear. For now, you should stay at SLAM levels while you're scooping, filtering, etc. Let's see the water itself get clear before we start checking other potential issues.

    Not brushing but the vacuum I use has brushes on it so I use those while vacuuming. On the plus side I did have a FC loss of 4 overnight so I guess that's a step in the right direction
    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
    My Slam

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    Re: Confused

    Alright, keep at it. If the vacuum doesn't get the sides of the pool, you'll want to manually brush those at least once per day. Also, if you have a ladder or any other equipment in the water that is removable, you'll want to remove it, take it apart and clean it with diluted bleach. Ladders are famous for having hollow ballast that gets full of algae and all manner of nooks and crannies for it to hide in.
    8,500gal plaster in-ground with attached spa, two floor drains, one skimmer. Chlorine, City Water.
    Pentair WhisperFlo 1hp Pump, MagnaTek Midcentury EPlus motor, Pentair CleanNClear 200SF Cartridge filter, Purex Triton MiniMax 250 Gas Heater, Pentair SunLite, AutoFill.
    Kreepy Krauly Cruiser, TF-100 with SpeedStir. :D

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    Re: Confused

    Quote Originally Posted by triptyx View Post
    Alright, keep at it. If the vacuum doesn't get the sides of the pool, you'll want to manually brush those at least once per day. Also, if you have a ladder or any other equipment in the water that is removable, you'll want to remove it, take it apart and clean it with diluted bleach. Ladders are famous for having hollow ballast that gets full of algae and all manner of nooks and crannies for it to hide in.
    No ladder or anything in there yet so no need to worry about that.I will pick up a better brush tonight to really give it a good scrub.
    Intex AG metal frame vinyl sides 10,400 gal. 3000 gph intex pump with 16" sand filter
    My Slam

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    Re: Confused

    Quote Originally Posted by jasnovanorder View Post
    Thanks to funky weather and a tree I'm in the process of doing a SLAM.
    Not to get off topic, but how does a tree cause you to need to SLAM?
    16,000 gallon in-ground pebble tec pool. Hayward SP3400VSP Eco-Star Pump, Pentair Triton 2 TR-100 sand filter, A&A 5-port in-floor pool cleaner, Pentair Intellibrite 5g color changing pool light, Polaris 965iQ Robotic Pool Cleaner, OG Pool Math Subscriber and most importantly a Taylor K-2006C test kit.
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