Aqua Rite salt generator - no power light

[Richakn]

Hi,

Here's my situation:

We opened the pool two weeks ago and had some filter issues which required the filter tank and filter to be replaced. The pool is now clean and I was ready to add salt. I only had 2 40lb bags, so I added those recognizing I needed more. I checked the salt generator unit and no power light. The LCD was on, but no power light or generating light.

I'm going to assume the wiring is ok as it was working fine for 3 years.

My cell voltage and cell current are reading 0.4 and 0. So I guess I have a power supply issues somewhere?

I checked the fuse and it looked ok - no visible break. I read that it could be the limiter. I took a picture - I think it looked ok, but maybe there was a hint of black on the inside of the brown casing that might have indicated an issue? To my untrained eye I didn't think it looked significant but would appreciate some thoughts.

Any ideas on how to proceed? I couldn't see any signs of burn out on the back of the circuit board - no obvious issues on the front either.

I head some generators don't power up if there's no salt in the pool - that sounds unlikely but could that be an issue? I don't know my salt levels (getting it tested tomorrow) but it's got to be low - I've barely added any salt this season.

Thanks

Rich

 

[JamesW]

I think that the limiter is the likely problem.

I think that the circular mark is probably a crack.

You can use SL322R025 or AS322R025. The SL322R025 is easier to solder into the board.

 

[howercat]

I had the no power light starting pool this year. Red no flow flashing light.. then all lights would go out. Replaced the pcb, as per pool suppliers recommendation....well, still had same no power out.. Figured out the problem. When u put in a new pcb, there are two metal jumpers at lower left where power connects, 1 and 2, then 3 and 4. There aren't any instructions with the board that tell you to do this..but fixed the problem. All working now.

 

[Knemo77]

Yup, the limiter is shot. That style board is a pain to desolder because the large pads make it hard to get enough heat to get the old one off. Be patient and you can get it done.

 

[JoeGolan]

Yup, the limiter is shot. That style board is a pain to desolder because the large pads make it hard to get enough heat to get the old one off. Be patient and you can get it done.

You just need the correct wattage soldering iron/gun... along with a solder sucker or solder wick to remove old solder, makes it much easier to remove the component with most of the solder removed.

 

[Gundo]

Hello all -

I installed a new Hawyard PCB ($185 on Amazon) and got the dreaded no power light. Drat. I followed all directions to the letter.

Was worried it was my transformer or the small front board with the dial.

Thanks to this great board, I figured it out thanks to howercat.

@ howercat - this is the same exact problem I had with the new control board.

Delivered incorrectly - the 2 and 3 power terminals were jumped, and it should be as follows:

1 & 2 jumped
3 & 4 jumped

The board came with 2 & 3 jumped (as pictured on newly installed board below) and as an aside, there are two jumpers in the 2&3 spot, so my thinking is that this is a planned feature - you just need to know about it...



This is my original board below, and in the lower left, you can see the jumpers in place on 1&2 and 3&4 - the correct way.

 

[Gundo]

You nailed it howercat! thanks

 

[JamesW]

The board comes set for 230 volts. See diagram on inside door. Yours is probably 115 volts.

 

[Gundo]

Yes indeed.

Mine needed to be Set and wired for 115v.

Makes perfect sense now.

Thanks

 

[Bullitt4075]

I have a similar issue after change my T-15 Cell (old cell had a melt down). After the replacement of the cell the system came up normally and all looked good until the power light started to blink and finally went out after 3-5 minutes leaving only the generating light on. The power light will stay off even after a quick power cycle but the generating light will come back on. If I turn the system off for an extended period of time (let everything cool down) the system will once again power on normally with both the power and generating lights coming on after the flow light turns off but again the power light will go out after 3-5 minutes leaving only the generating light on.

I have checked the diagnostic display voltage and current per the manual when the system is in this state and they are within the specifications given but again only the generating light is on. So I'm not sure if the system is generating or not. I have changed the fuse and the current limiter as the posts here show them as high fail items but neither fixed the failure mode I'm having. Before I buy a new board has anyone seen this failure mode before and where you able to fix it? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

 

[corlyoc]

What is a pcb?

 

[corlyoc]

I have the same problem with power on the diagnostics but no power or generating lights working. Can you tell me what the limiter looks like so I can try to identify if that's the issue and do you know where I would get a new one?
Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[Meadow]

What is a pcb?

Printed Circuit Board

I have the same problem with power on the diagnostics but no power or generating lights working. Can you tell me what the limiter looks like so I can try to identify if that's the issue and do you know where I would get a new one?
Thanks for any help you can provide.

Images of the In-Rush Current Limiter/Suppressor or Thermistor on the AQR PCB are posted above. It's the black disc labeled RZ3, top right of the board.
How to diagnose a bad thermistor on the AQR board > https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/167903-Aquarite-How-to-Diagnose-a-Bad-Thermistor

One good source is the Digi-Key website, part# 570-1062-ND for type SL32 2R025 or 570-1105-ND for the AS32 2R025. Get the latter if the solder pads on your board can accommodate the footprint.
Suggest you Google "Aquarite board repair" and watch some youtube videos on how to replace the thermistor on the AQR board.

 

[dickiesw]

Yup, the limiter is shot. That style board is a pain to desolder because the large pads make it hard to get enough heat to get the old one off. Be patient and you can get it done.

Thanks for the info in this thread - I found that my current limiter is also cracked and have ordered a new one to replace it.

My LCD display is also malfunctioning - it does not display all of the digits for the various diagnostic information. Could this be linked to the current limiter?

 

[Monkeyman10]

Hello all -

I installed a new Hawyard PCB ($185 on Amazon) and got the dreaded no power light. Drat. I followed all directions to the letter.

Was worried it was my transformer or the small front board with the dial.

Thanks to this great board, I figured it out thanks to howercat.

@ howercat - this is the same exact problem I had with the new control board.

Delivered incorrectly - the 2 and 3 power terminals were jumped, and it should be as follows:

1 & 2 jumped
3 & 4 jumped

The board came with 2 & 3 jumped (as pictured on newly installed board below) and as an aside, there are two jumpers in the 2&3 spot, so my thinking is that this is a planned feature - you just need to know about it...

View attachment 63906

This is my original board below, and in the lower left, you can see the jumpers in place on 1&2 and 3&4 - the correct way.

View attachment 63907

Oh Wow Howercat and Gundo - You really saved the day. After completing the weakest desolder/solder job in the history of the universe, I got the "no power" light still. I had bought a replacement board and tried that. Still no power light. Changed the jumpers and "voila", back in business. On the original board, I'd dropped one of the jumpers so it was never going to work. You all rule! Great catch on the voltage. MM

 

[mosip23]

Thanks for the info in this thread - I found that my current limiter is also cracked and have ordered a new one to replace it.

My LCD display is also malfunctioning - it does not display all of the digits for the various diagnostic information. Could this be linked to the current limiter?

Hi, I'm sorry, can you please explain what a limiter is and where it is located?

 

[Guyproblem101]

Oh Wow Howercat and Gundo - You really saved the day. After completing the weakest desolder/solder job in the history of the universe, I got the "no power" light still. I had bought a replacement board and tried that. Still no power light. Changed the jumpers and "voila", back in business. On the original board, I'd dropped one of the jumpers so it was never going to work. You all rule! Great catch on the voltage. MM

I have the same problem, what do you mean change the bumpers? I bought same new unit.

 

[poolguy76890]

Thank you for solving my problem. I would never have noticed the terminals being jumped the way that they were. Hayward should distribute these correctly installed in the first place.

This thread was started 6 years ago, and the exact same problem is faced today.

Thank you for posting the solution!