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Given all that you've done, I would suspect that the rollers aren't compressing the pump tubing. It can be hard to get the rollers to expand properly even when they appear to.

I don't know exactly why it's corroding, but I'd suggest checking the anodes to make sure they are installed so that they protect the tracks and to make sure they aren't worn down. You might also try softer metal anodes.

A few things to check. Make sure the fan is running and is passing plenty of air. Make sure the lamp is tight in the socket. (Use clean cotton gloves when handling the lamp). If those are good It could be a bad lamp or a weak thermal switch.

That's a Praher (Pentair) valve. It appears that the spring is broken, so instead of you not raising the diverter when changing positions it isn't pressing the diverter down onto the body partitions. Look for parts for a SM-10 multiport valve and you should be able to find what you need.

Welcome to TFP. Can you give us the make and model of the injection pump? A picture of the head end may help too. Most small peristaltic pumps have three rollers in the head so no matter which position it stops at least one the rollers are occluding the tubing preventing a gravity or suction...

I read all your posts and agree with your assessment. Installed the check valve as a peace of mind item, but really didn't need it. I would agree on the 10GPD fixed head pump ran on a timer. The only issue I can think of is that you'll need a timer with fine adjustments so you can fine tune the...

Here's a couple of things. The new timer box doesn't have a non-dedicated terminal to terminate the wires that are under terminal "A" on the existing timer. However, you may be able to terminate them with some of the other wires. Here's what I found out about the new timer. The 'clock'...

I hate to nitpick, but the new pic of the existing timer is a little too far away for me to trace the wires in the enclosure. :( Also it looks like the existing timer is a T104 which is a 240 volt timer and without knowing the model of the new one it's hard to tell for sure how it can be wired...

You need to back away just a little and take another pic of the timer wiring so we can see where all those wires are routed. Having said that, it looks like some of those white wires are used as jumpers. While I would use a different color, they will work. Also as said above, I would trim off...

Poolman is correct, however, I suggest you don't cut the plug off, but instead get a female cord end or receptacle and wire it to the relay. With Stenner once you cut the plug off you void the warranty. While not a huge issue as the Stenner pumps are very reliable, I prefer to maintain the...

According to the schematics, it's two distinct relays, but they both switch off one clock, so they switch at the same time.

Those units work pretty well when they work. I had one for a few years until I switched to a Stenner pump. Now to answer your question. You can add a full load of bleach when it needs it. The trick is to pour it slowly into the funnel. While you're doing that, the liquid on top of the bleach...

As Allen said, the pic is kinda small to be able to see what's going on. I would consider some J-B marine weld, but without seeing the leak up close I can't guarantee that it would work and it will likely ruin the valve for other repairs.

While there are some equipment where the equipment ground and bonding lugs are electrically connected, but there is a lot of equipment (including pumps) where they are electrically isolated from each other. As Allen said, Bonding and grounding systems should be considered separate systems...

FYI, In the US, the NEC doesn't require the bonding grid to be 'grounded', but it doesn't prohibit it from being connected to a ground system, so while attaching the grid to a ground rod was unnecessary, it's not technically against the code.

Given the equipment listed in your signature, I'd say that the pressure at the return is going to be less than 15 psig, so I don't think you need the check valve. You should have a gauge on your filter that reads the filter pressure, and the return pressure will be less than that.

While I don't like only breaking one leg of a 240v circuit, it's a very common practice. The vast majority of timers only break one leg. Having said that, I know of several people that use smart switches to control motor loads. However, I would strongly suggest getting a switch that's rated...

That 'ground' wire is actually a 'Bonding' wire. It's perfectly safe being ran through the 'putty' they installed. The grid is ran in the dirt or concrete, and it's designed to prevent exactly what you're concerned about. It actually prevents voltage from building up in the pool water.

Most any Stenner pump would work depending on how much you want to run the main pump. A lot of people go with a fixed rate 10 gpd pump and run it with their automation system or a timer. A lot of people buy the Stenner tank to go with the pump, but people also use 15 gallon plastic barrels...

I think you'll find that it won't work that way. It will probably work for a little while, but unless everything about the two suction lines are exactly the same one will outpace the other. Even if everything is the same, one side will invariably draw a little more than the other and empty one...

If you plumbed the tanks bottom to bottom so that they equalized by gravity, you certainly could do it. Otherwise you're going to need some way to transfer the liquid from one tank to the other.

Without knowing what the normal operating pressure of your system at the location you're planning on installing the switch I can't make a recommendation. Also, the devices we have access to over here may not be available over there.

They're looking for a pressure switch that will shut down the floc system when it senses lower than normal pressure in the line after the filters. Basically just a normally open switch. You need to look for an adjustable pressure switch that covers the range of pressures normally seen by your...

Can you post pictures of your setup as well as some (or all) of the wiring? Sounds like they purposefully wired the pump to run whenever the lights are on.

Even though Federal Pacific doesn't make the breakers anymore, a few companies make replacement breakers for those panels and they are safe. The panels weren't the problem, it was the FP breakers. As long as you buy new, tested, replacement breakers you'll be fine.

That's a DPDT relay. They're using it to interface the control circuit so you're not supplying power from a secondary source.

Can you tell us what the relay does, or give us a make and model? I would think that it has some delay capability to keep the compressor from restarting too soon.

As Allen said, use some Channellock pliers or a small pipe wrench to help get it started. Then it should close. The propane tank valve has a backseat and some people turn them pretty hard in the open direction in order to seat them and that makes it kinda hard to get it to start to close.

Sounds good to me. With the adjustable injection pump you can dial in the amount you need to inject during the run time. You'll need to go with a pump large enough to make sure it can inject the amount needed. For a 22,000 gallon pool you're going to require about 2 quarts of 12% per day. so...

Yes the Stenner pump is for chlorine dosing. I started out with an Intermatic timer on it, but now I use an Insteon Outdoor Timer. The pump hangs on the wall just above a 15 gallon blue drum. And the injection fitting is threaded into the return plumbing just past the filter. The pump has been...