Smart switch for switched pump motor?

[djdonte]

While replacing the capacitor in my water feature motor I realized it has constant 120 on one leg and only turns on when it receives 120 on L2 from a light switch. Keeping this is mind I wanted to revisit a previous idea. Do you think I can get away with a wifi switch since it is only controlling half the volts and amps?

It’s a whisperflo with a 1.5hp 1.65SF motor. It says it draws 7.6 Amps with 220. Not sure if that’s per leg or total. Either way that’s way below the 15 amps most of those switches are rated for. What am missing?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

That switch is setup incorrectly. A 220V switch is double pole double throw (DPDT) so that both hot legs are de-energized when the switch is off. What you have these is a lazy-man’s approach - the electrician probably didn’t have any DPDT switches and so he just installed a regular 120V SPST switch. There may be no current draw in that configuration but you have an energized lead which would be dangerous to work on if someone doesn’t know that. Yes, you should always throw the breaker when working on something electrical but that advice is not always followed.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

This timer will handle up to 277 VAC and 40 amps.

DEWENWILS Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box, Heavy Duty 40A 120-277 VAC 2HP Wireless Controller Timer Switch for Pool Water Heater SPA, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, Google Assistant, UL Listed: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

DEWENWILS Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box, Heavy Duty 40A 120-277 VAC 2HP Wireless Controller Timer Switch for Pool Water Heater SPA, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, Google Assistant, UL Listed: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[Bama Rambler]

While I don't like only breaking one leg of a 240v circuit, it's a very common practice. The vast majority of timers only break one leg.

Having said that, I know of several people that use smart switches to control motor loads. However, I would strongly suggest getting a switch that's rated for motor loads, like the one Mike posted above.

 

[djdonte]

That switch is setup incorrectly. A 220V switch is double pole double throw (DPDT) so that both hot legs are de-energized when the switch is off. What you have these is a lazy-man’s approach - the electrician probably didn’t have any DPDT switches and so he just installed a regular 120V SPST switch. There may be no current draw in that configuration but you have an energized lead which would be dangerous to work on if someone doesn’t know that. Yes, you should always throw the breaker when working on something electrical but that advice is not always followed.

Yeah my dumb Rear worked on it with only the switch isolating it. I did however use a multimeter to verify before I touched anything and then realized one leg was always hot. I don’t doubt this is incorrect as everything else on this house is about the same.