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I hate to think that you're coming away from TFP feeling like you're not getting the help you need. While sometimes people can be short with answers, please remember that those people are sometimes answering many questions every day, and the bottom line is that if you follow the directions...

Do you mean you could only pour a little in before the dot disappeared? If so, do a diluted test with 50% pool water and 50% tap water, then do the test again and multiply your result by 2. Regardless, if it's above 100 you'll want to do a partial drain to lower it. Ph is a little low, you...

Borax works great on cloth diapers. Helps them come out nice and white, and very fresh (clean!). Also, I wanted to note that the trichlor tablets are acidic, so using them actually helps keep your pH lower. But stop using them. No more CYA for you! :cool:

Chlorox all has something extra in it now, don't buy Chlorox. Get the regular, no scented, no splashless, no nothing special usually cheaper 6% bleach.

Are you using 25ml for testing FC? Try 10ml and then each drop is .5ppm. It'll save reagents. Did I already mention that? Feels like I did. But maybe not. Every time I see .2 in results I try to save people some money so I tend to say it a lot here lately. Taylor instructions show the...

They don't do this on the new models intake/suction side, but they do have an "air jet" on the return side that adds air. It's convenient if you want to raise pH, but not so much when you don't. It's different than the one shown in this thread though. I don't have a pic that shows it without...

Pool noodle chunks?

That's clearly algae. OCLT was unnecessary with visual algae like that ;). Take account of the pump running 24/7, SLAM level chlorine, and reagents... then compare to draining, washing with bleach, refilling and adding a bit of CYA. Hard to judge how much chlorine it'll take since you don't...

Did you see my reply to your other thread? If you added 16 pounds of baking soda, that would have raised TA by 67ppm and your pH by .14. There's no way that didn't work. The test strips are JUNK. Throw them away. Don't put any more baking soda in till you have a good test kit and can verify...

While it's possible the powder is bad, I've never had a problem with it and the TFP powder is guaranteed to be fresh. If it IS the powder or R-0871 for some reason, TFTestkits will remedy it. I'm using 5yo lavender colored powder this year since it works exactly the same as my brand new TFP...

Rats! Next time you end up not being able to add chlorine or don't get to it till the next day, just add a couple/few ppm above target. Or, better yet add 1-2ppm above target every day just in case you have a long day again. Doing OCLT at or under minimum probably didn't help much either...

Do your test about half hour after you add the chlorine (with pump running). Sounds like your green pool is eating it up pretty fast and that 5ppm you're adding every day is disappearing entirely. SLAM level for 20ppm CYA is 10ppm FC. I didn't realize you had a green pool, so after you figure...

Hi and Welcome to TFP! How are you chlorinating? TA of 2 is odd. Pool store testing is not to be trusted. Best to just not go back there and if you do, don't bring water. Just buy chlorine and get out. You need your own proper test kit ASAP. See . We recommend the TF-100 as it is the...

Green film always means algae. You can use your shock liquid for daily chlorinating, it's just higher percentage bleach. You'll need to perform the . It's not a one time addition of shock product, it's a process. Read and the algae articles in Pool School. Maybe these will help.

That is weird. The OTO showed you "maybe .5ppm FC". If FC is above 5ppm, that test is very yellow, and if it was equal to 30 drops R-0871 it would actually be more orange than yellow. If you use your CYA of maybe 20, then add enough chlorine to get to 5ppm FC (which it appears you need...

When you did the FC test, did you add 30 drops of R-0871 or 30 drops of R-0003? Repeat the FC test following the directions as noted above. Something went wrong with that first test. Light pink usually indicates low FC which would match your OTO test results. Higher FC (even 3ppm as...

You can use the 10ml sample for FC/CC testing. Then each drop is .5ppm which is plenty precise for your purposes. It will save reagents. The liquid shock that you're using is fine for normal chlorination, it's the same as bleach from the grocery store but it's probably 10% or 12% rather than...

You can raise it to target for your CYA daily, I prefer to do it at night which leaves all the no sun hours at higher FC. Seems to me like a good way to tackle any nasties in the water for a long time rather than letting the sun burn some FC off right away. If you have extra monkeys or...

Adding FC to SLAM level once is not the . If you're losing that much FC per day without any swimmers (target not enough to not fall below minimum), the chlorine is battling something. You need to do a real SLAM. Bring FC up to SLAM level for your CYA level, test and maintain SLAM level at...

The Chlorox brand is very soluble. I got mine from Amazon. Was $14.xx for 1 bottle. It will last me a long time with less than 4000 gallons. IIRC, the HTH brand is also very soluble. I think you may find either of those brands at your local big box store. Some are less soluble than others...

I'm so confused... Are you SLAM or not? The test results and targets you're showing are all over the place. If you are SLAM, you maintain SLAM FC level. If you are not SLAM, you make sure you don't fall below minimum every day, which means you aim for Target at least once a day.

Why no more pics? Wah...

Even if pool store testing was known to be accurate (it's not), a test from 2 weeks ago is meaningless today. Said test was meaningless even 13 days ago actually. As others have noted, you need your own proper test kit.

You will need to drain water and refill with fresh water to lower the CYA. Adding water doesn't work because CYA doesn't go away with evaporation, it remains in the water. I want to swim with monkeys too...

You should just do what they say... It's in the contract that you have to, no? Although the stinker in me would likely add some liquid chlorine and then act cool and guilt free when they test it and think the pucks are working out well.

The TA test differences are probably testing error. Are you wiping the tip of the bottle between drops with a damp cloth? Static electricity can affect the drop size. I'd suggest stopping testing TA every time you test. Let it be. Test it weekly. It's fine. Ease your mind. Drop pH down...

Oh, and you can use the 10ml sample instead of the 25ml for testing FC and CC. Each drop is .5ppm which is plenty precise. It will save your reagents too.

I'd say bump it up to the target for 80ppm CYA level for non-salt pools for the time being since it's gone so low. That's 11ppm. Get regular non-scented, non-splashless, no anything special probably the cheapest bleach. Not Chlorox, it's got something they call Chloromax technology which is...

Yes! See

What is your FC now? Tablets don't add much very fast, you may want to put some bleach in to raise FC to target for your CYA, then the tablets should be able to keep up.