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That is what happen to me. Flow switch failed and even though the Swimpure was hooked up to my timer the trippers were removed because of my vs pump. It stayed on all night with no flow. I had to put the trippers on a rewire my pump to the line side of the timer.

When my pool was installed back in 2004 they did put a switch with 2 GFCI plugs right before the Intermatic timer. If I turn the switch off it cuts the power to the timer thus the swcg and the pump. I didn't know the reason for the switch but I guess it was the Florida or Broward county code.

Like Marty said you should get the flow switch replaced. If you have a mechanical Intermatic timer there is a line side and a load side: pump to the line side and swcg to the load side. I like you am not electrically savvy even though I could have done it myself, but I go my neighbors pool...

My installer did the same thing when he installed my vs pump to the load side of the timer and he removed the timer clips because the pump needed constant power for the vs pump timer to work. It worked until my flow switch failed.

The instant salinity would be -0 if its a point that is not generating. If its not on a separate timer it could be your flow switch that failed. You can try running your pump 24/7 for a day to see if your average salinity is maintained. When my flow switch failed my average salinity would go...

I was asking the original poster. When my flow switch failed I had a similar problem I could calibrate it but the average would then go down after a day.

Is your Aquarite on a separate timer from your pump?

If your flow switch is bad it could be miscalculating your average salt and causing it to drop. What does it show for your instant salinity? You could also let your pump run 24hrs and see what your reading is.

The 90,000 gallons scared me.

Wow. You would need SWGs.

Just put the mechanical timer on the same schedule as the VS pump. In order for the vs pump to maintain their programming it needs to have constant power, so if you wired to your mechanical timer it would have to be the line side of timer so that it has constant power and won't loose the...

When my new Swimpure SWG and VS pump were installed to my mechanical timer they were both put on the load side without the little trippers, which meant it never went off. Thus my pump would turn off but not my SWG. Flow switch failed and I had all kinds of problems. When I put the trippers in...

Why wouldn't you use a mechanical timer?

Yes, this could cause a problem. My flow switch got stuck together and it was always generating even when the pump was off. It caused all kind of problems with my salinity readings and I would get low salt and check cell warnings.

How are you testing your salt? Rainwater would not reduce the amount of salt. Did you dump water so it doesn't over flow?

Agree. If run at 100% it would probably produce a little more than 6ppm.

I believe it takes time for the flow switch to come on (don't remember but less than a minute). I had the same problem (my flow switch was bad) no flow never came on.

I had a faulty flow switch and since my Aquarite was not on a timer, since I had a variable speed pump and it had its own timer it would never turn off the Aquarite. This would cause the average salinity to be off and then it would not generate and cause an inspect cell and check salt fault...

Do you have a variable speed pump? Is your Aquarite connected to a timer?

Have you recently changed to a variable speed pump?

Hi, is you SWCG on a timer? I see that you have variable speed pump and if your SWCG is not on a timer it could be causing your average salinity to be off and not generating.

Agree, I would also be very interested if you could get it to work since I have Intelliflo VS pump and a Hayward Swimpure SWG also. I would love to be able to control it with this also.

I also don't add MA every day the last time I added was 11 days ago. I love my SWG.

I had the same problem. Pump and SWCG were both hooked up to the load(timer) portion of my Intermatic timer and the pins were removed. Caused all kinds of problems with my SWCG, moved pump to the line side and replaced the pins on the timer and all is working perfectly.

The bubbles are the chlorine gas being generated by the SWG perfectly normal.

I had exactly the same issue with my Hayward SWG. Flow switch was stuck closed kept generating and it wasn't on a timer. I would get low salt errors and my salt readings were incorrect and it would cause the swg to stop generating chlorine.

Re: Salt Generator readings The only way to get rid of salt is by draining water out of the pool.

Yes no chlorine would be generated with the a salt reading of 1800. I was having the same problem if I manually recalibrate it would read correctly and it would start generating. You manually recalibrate by turning the switch to off and then on hit diagnostics 5 times until you get to -0...

So was mine but the flow switch failed. So it said it was generating when the pump was off. I scheduled my pump to run 24hrs and all of sudden my salt readings made sense. Even when my reading said -0 and my amp 0 I was able to recalibrate my salt reading and it gave me a correct reading...

Jace, is your SWCG on a timer? Is your vs pump on running 24hrs? I just had a similar problem. The amps @ 0 and instant salinity -0 could be when the 3% of the time your pump is generating. I would have problems with avg salt reading being low and it was because SWCG didn't turn off and kept...