Change SWG?

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Henry M

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Oct 7, 2015
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Coral Springs, Florida
Like some of the other posts, I seem to be having a calibration issue, as well. I've a AQR15; installed new in 2015. The initial reading is at 2200. When I push the Diagnostic button 5 times it reads -3200. So I do the recalibration exercise & the initial reading then matches the recalibration reading. It stays that way for about 24 hours, and then the initial reading drops back to 2200.

The T-15 cell was just washed & cleaned. The pool water chemistry is within the boundaries, as measured by the TF100 kit. Does this issue indicate it's time to change out the T-15 cell, or is there another matter I should pay attention to?

Thanks very much.
 
If the above recommendation did not work, try to reseat the display board by pulling it out and putting it back in place. Make sure the dsp connector pins align properly with the header. Then try to recalibrate again in both polarities. Not sure if you unplugged the cell from the bd when you cleaned it. If you didn't, unplug it and inspect the connector for any signs of deterioration and reseat.

If the problem persists, please post the full diagnostic showing the instant salinity reading in both polarities. This might help others to help you better.

Here's the Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines for your reference. You will find the cell warranty info on the last page.

More here > http://www.prolinedist.com/wp-content/uploads/GL-AQR-Disgnostic-Manual-r1.58-2011.pdf
 
Just checked. Initial reading 3200. Did recalibration thing and it settled -2200. So now initial reading is 2200 with "check salt" & "inspect cell" lights flashing. Checked again, and initial reading was 2200 and after pushing diagnostic button 5 times I got -0. I repositioned cell so bend is on the bottom. Salt strip test indicates about 2800. Should I add salt? Thanks.

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No, the Aquarite is not on a separate timer from pump.
 
The instant salinity would be -0 if its a point that is not generating. If its not on a separate timer it could be your flow switch that failed. You can try running your pump 24/7 for a day to see if your average salinity is maintained. When my flow switch failed my average salinity would go low but if went to recalibrate it would be fine and I would reset and after a day it would be back to low with inspect cell and low salt on. My swg although connected to my manual timer on/off pins were removed so it was still on even though my pump was off, this led to an incorrect average salinity and the errors. I ran my pump 24/7 and the problem went away. I had a service call on my SWG and they found out the flow switch was stuck closed. I also had to move my pump connect to the line side of the timers so it would have power and put the off/on pins back on the manual timer. It is not recommended for the swg to not be connected to a timer, the flow switch should be secondary backup.
 
/\...what he said. Or, to rule that out...turn off the pump! If the Flow indicator did not lit then you have a bad Flow switch.
MannyT said:
I was asking the original poster. When my flow switch failed I had a similar problem I could calibrate it but the average would then go down after a day.
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ahhh...my bad!

Henry M said:
Just checked. Initial reading 3200. Did recalibration thing and it settled -2200. So now initial reading is 2200 with "check salt" & "inspect cell" lights flashing. Checked again, and initial reading was 2200 and after pushing diagnostic button 5 times I got -0. I repositioned cell so bend is on the bottom. Salt strip test indicates about 2800. Should I add salt? Thanks.
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According to the Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting guidelines, chlorine production is halted if the salinity is not within the recommended level of 2700-3400 ppm. Hence, the -0 salinity reading and probably 0 amp (not chlorinating) under the diagnostic. The "check salt & inspect cell" are maintenance minder and in this case, the cell detects either low salt or scaled cell. I trust and recommend Taylor K-1766 when testing the actual salt level vs strip. You don't want to overshoot salt in your water and partially drain later.

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Henry M said:
No, the Aquarite is not on a separate timer from pump.
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So how do you power on/off your SWCG? Or am I understanding that your pump and swcg are on the same timer?
 
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A SWCG must be completely powered off whenever the pump is not running. Your case above explains why. Your flow switch is showing as closed. The cell could explode if it generates chlorine without water flowing through it. Immediately remove power from that SWCG.
 
Your SWCG should be on a timer. Your VS pump has an internal timer. So your VS pump should be wired such that the power is to it all the time. The SWCG should be wired through the timer so you set it to only get power during the time you have your VS pump scheduled to run.

There are folks with the electrical knowledge on the forum to help if needed.
 
Thanks. I just checked how things are wired here: the pump & the SWG are connected together to the main power source. Will take your advice & check into electrical forum. Electricity scares the bejesus out of me. But this saga gets more interesting: I turned the SWG back on, and the average salt indicated 3200. The negative number read -3200. So I did the recalibration thing (twice, as Hayward recommended) and now both polarities read the same 3200. So it looks as if it is functioning as it should. What should I do about flow switch?

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I hasten to add: the installers didn't ground the panel, either.
 
The flow switch is your Secondary safety device and it must show NO FLOW when the pump is off or at a low rate. If it is not, it needs to be replaced.

Other members are more in tune with Hayward SWCG's than I so wait on them to chime in.

I would suggest getting an electrician with pool equipment expertise to help with your wiring. It is not correct as you describe.
 
Henry M said:
Wow. Thanks for the information. It's been operating like this since I had it installed. Wonder why the installers never mentioned anything like this. I just turned off the SWG. Haven't a clue as to what I should do next.
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My installer did the same thing when he installed my vs pump to the load side of the timer and he removed the timer clips because the pump needed constant power for the vs pump timer to work. It worked until my flow switch failed.
 
mknauss said:
The flow switch is your Secondary safety device and it must show NO FLOW when the pump is off or at a low rate. If it is not, it needs to be replaced.

Other members are more in tune with Hayward SWCG's than I so wait on them to chime in.

I would suggest getting an electrician with pool equipment expertise to help with your wiring. It is not correct as you describe.
Click to expand...

Like Marty said you should get the flow switch replaced. If you have a mechanical Intermatic timer there is a line side and a load side: pump to the line side and swcg to the load side. I like you am not electrically savvy even though I could have done it myself, but I go my neighbors pool person do it. It took 5 minutes to change.​
 
Many, many thanks for your help. I've been trying to wrap my mind about how to re-wire all this, and was about to give up and just resign myself to the notion I was going to have to pay big bucks for an electrician to sort things out. But your help takes a load (no pun intended) off my mind. I do have an older mechanical Intermatic timer & will this a go tomorrow morning. Thanks, again.
 

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