Search results

The only part which is the same is the fact the hose is running but deep cleaning a sand filter with the hose being pushed deep into the sand and debris buried in there floats up and out isn't even remotely close to what you're describing.

If it's only mud that washed in I'd raise the FC to the top of your target rage. Keep vacuuming and cleaning filter but between you may have to stop and let the waterborne stuff settle. Give your main drain a good workout by letting it remain atleast 50% open.

You may just want to start with a new mpv and move on to the next headache.

Pump motors do get hot. Let it run.

If you do a bucket test and the water remains even you'd consider yourself lucky. Leave all the equipment the way it was over the winter and watch the level over the few days.

That's the way they are for cross ventilation of the motor.

109 ounces will hit 5ppm @17k pool volume so I'd dump the whole gallon.

But adding CYA through the skimmer is not recommended from the point it can take up a week to fully be accounted for as it makes its way through the filter media and then if you forget and backwash too soon you lose whatever was still in the filter.

The picture is what was vacuumed out from it but the water is crystal clear. So far every one of the pool openings with the winter mesh/stretch cover came out similar. Pools that are new to me this season are another story as I didn't close them so so were better then others. The tarped...

Today before any chemistry added and first vacuum.

Amazon is fine. Just a FYI the only Clorox brand product which is ok to use is the dry stabilizer. Any of the other Clorox products which have anything with the word "blue" on the label are on the non recommended list.

I'd keep the rpm high for the duration of the cold snap.

Do a load test on your genny prior to the freeze.

I'd drain all the equipment including the pump which should have 2 drain plugs. I would also blow out the lines and plug for extra insurance.

If I were you I'd winterize in a heart beat. If you loose power you then will be digging next season to repair.

Great, so then I'll just pump from the pool back to the spa and call it a done as it's a real small spa the pool wouldn't know the difference. Thank you.

Not pool in signature Plaster pool and spa combo got winterized today but something about the spa is bugging me. The spa has two sets of 2 drains in the floor. Two are for the circulation of the six wall jets on a separate pump with a air blower and then there are two drains for when in spa...

So I guess besides an upcharge buried in the liner cost for this service you'll also pay an extra water bill to fill for the winter but it's still a win win knowing you have a usable pool come next season.

Why wouldn't they sell the liner to someone at a discount rather then just waste it here and they just happen to have what fits your pool...but maybe.

Anywhere between 50 and 75 degrees is fine

You can peel back the cover and drop in a submersible pump and then add the liquid chlorine and even use the pool brush. Perhaps move the pump around to push water different directions then take a water sample to see what you have. I'd consider this method rather safe.

I'd push for the liner and skip the 2x4 structure.

That's dependent which way you blow the lines. I have one ig pool that sits higher then the equipment pad so that one I blow from the returns, furthest to the closest. I blow first with all open starting from the furthest and before and before I go to #2 I cap #2 so any water is surely passed...

I have found as well as others have that the last stop in this pool closing saga is the cyclone blower. Once you use it you say to to yourself why in the world did i wait this long.

Kj 5-6 hours a day means the chlorine tab is sitting in the skimmer basket the rest of the time. By the time the pump goes on for the next cycle you're bringing highly acidic water through your pump again and again day in day out which isn't healthy for your pump. You would be better off having...

Because you have the wrong gizzmo. You need this one and there won't be that iinterference you speak of.

Or have a helper that can help you atleast with this plug as it seems to be the most daunting one for you.

It's all pointing to the main drain area in probability but I wonder if for some reason there's hydrostatic valve there that's leaking eventhough vinyl pools don't usually have it or perhaps a hydrostatic valve location behind the grill that is plugged and now leaking

It's all pointing to the main drain area in probability but I wonder if for some reason there's hydrostatic valve there that's leaking eventhough vinyl pools don't usually have it or perhaps a hydrostatic valve location behind the grill that is plugged and now leaking

You may be able to monitor what's left to see if it goes down any further. If it stays at a given level that means the hole of sort is at that level. I'd then recommend doing a solid patch job and fill back the water.