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If that's the old one they are repairable in place...

I'M ALIVE (Demon seed)...

Pic is a good example of ingenuity to aerate ... https://www.troublefreepool.com/posts/2341412/

(FYI) Advice on testing CYA is because the scale is logarithmic :)

It may be cheaper but less convenient to add CYA in pure granular form, and most people don't do step 7 or check PH all that often once it settles in. About the latter, you can add Boric acid once PH settles and it helps keep things more stable. BTW, on the bleach, make sure it's unscented (no...

CYA is too high, and @JoeSelf meant raise FC commensurate with that CYA level. Yes, you used up the CHL bringing down the CC level. The other thread is more aptly titled for continuance. Whew, all those $2.00 words wore me out :hammer:

They probably can be had in 105 degree and long mtbf (life) rating, which would be better if they are near a heat source.

One side looks a lot worse than the other. I suspect the left worked loose and heat conducted to the other through the board, causing higher temperature differential between on/off cycles leading to that second side starting to work loose. Could also have been gremlins escaped from buggs bunny...

When I work home outlet replacement or the like if my rugrat is asleep I'm not going to wake him to tell him, and same for expecting my wife to come home while I'm working (esp. if I'm outside), I usually put a piece of making tape over the turned off breaker with "NO!" written on it. I reckon...

I bought a box of four 10% bottles of chlorinator at Rural King over a year ago and am down to a half gallon left. At first I got all scientific about dilution testing to see how it degraded, but as time went I got less diligent and settled for empirical results. So, year old 10% is/was...

:)

The one time I don't go back and re-read the entire thread, oh boy ... yes, yes, yes, you have EXACTLY the kind of situation that demands thinking outside the box. I forgot the thread pertained to a cedar tub! My comment was directed to a plumbed system (i.e. inside a hot tub), but that's not...

I used the Ahh-Some! product on my first, six-month purge. However, I also dosed heavy a few times swimming-pool style per what I recalled older recommendations from Ben Powel's site mostly, and got little to nothing out of the lines as far as dirty foaming so I'm believing that what's in the...

+1 Flow switches are typically magnetic, a pivoted magnet and fixed-position glass reed contacts ... sounds like the reed is sticking. I know nothing about the circuit, but from an electronics standpoint reed relays rarely stick because they are typically not used anywhere near rated current...

@lissajeen, If you decide to try the Aqua Clarity I hope you will report back on the results in 3 to 6 months! It would be awesome to see how it does... :epds:

Another EXCEPTIONAL post bookmarked!

@RDspaguy answered your question, but I'd add that as a diy'r if yours was cheap Incoloi type you could upgrade to titanium and chances are it would last quite a bit longer.

The disconnect boxes usually have a loop in the cover for a lock. Service imo, should require using a lock. We had a Warrant Officer working on the receiver of a roundy-round (radar that spins), and someone turned back on the motor generator. He died the following day. Same happened a decade...

As was said, it was likely an existing problem looking for the opportunity to happen. The filters are removed during the purge to increase flow, to keep from destroying them, and yes, it's always more opportunity for mishap but getting the lines clean is far more important than the health...

@RDspaguy, possible gunked flow switch? (WAG...)

Im thinking she had pulled it all the way to waters edge, should have tipped it over into the pool... First comment said likely MA and pucks. I believe the MA, not convinced tablet(s)... Yes, yikes

I did, for 50 or 60A service I was not aware one could buy a GFCI that wasn't also a breaker. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks James.

If the equipment cabinet side is closer to the window, turning the tub 180 degrees might help? Edit: Also, possibly standing up a sheet of foam insulation over the window seems like a possible option (or both)...

Less is always more, you add acid to bring down your TA --- just don't add so much that you need the baking soda. I've never needed to raise TA (or use baking soda), aeration pretty much assures that.

I presume you mean received a shock, if there's a GFCI that's not tripped and someone in the tub who died from electrocution that GFI was more than likely defective and I wouldn't trust turning it off before touching anything in that water...

Evaporation will require periodically adding more water, so some of your CH number will drop to splash out, but not as much as you will add. Target accordingly. Also note some CH is good, excessive can precipitate and also coat your heater element, so a read on saturation index might be...

If you've been using it and it's been clear, no skin rashes or chlorine smells over 4 years, aside from heater issues you must be doing something right. How often do you change water, clean filter, how much use (bather-hours a week), and how long does the filter cycle run (is there a...

No guarantees of course, but I can't help but think at 55 ppm CHL and fairly low CYA that anything biofilm related is dead. I did that too (not as high) and a subsequent eventual purge with ahh-some! didn't release much of anything though my CHL demand went a bit lower. @Mdragger88's thoughts...

Nice job on the cover, but perhaps if covered by homeowner insurance all you would have to pay for is the deductible? New covers can be very expensive and factory replacements even more so (get estimate on factory, purchase aftermarket).

To answer your question all you need do is search for threads on gfi tripping. The typical failure mode of a heater is every 2 to 5 years the tube corrodes, leaks,and conduction of fault current trips the breaker. Without a gfci to trip you could easily be one of the conduction paths. Note...