High chloramines w/a new tub and fresh fills

Jul 18, 2009
21
Norman, OK
I've owned a pool previously (at a different house, on city water), and am familiar with water chemistry - but I have a problem that is stumping me.

Last week, I had a new AquaRest AR-400 premium (ozone) tub delivered. After I filled it the first time, I added about 16ppm of dichlor and tested the next day. Free chlorine was around 2ppm, and combined chlorine was around 5ppm. So I shocked the tub to 90ppm using dichlor, left it for a day, and then drained it... thinking the tub may have been dirty. (Although it was new, there was water seeping out of the jets when it was delivered. I assume it was tested at the factory, as it didn't look like it had been used and returned.)

On the second fill, I focused first on adding acid. I have a well, and my starting TA is above 400. I spent 3 days adding about 18oz of dry acid to the tub, maintaining a steady 3-4ppm. After getting the TA to 120, I tested again - hoping that having enough free chlorine with a "closer to correct" TA and pH would mean less chlormaines - but chloramines were still around 5pm. So I drained it again.

With desperation, on my third try, I added enough dichlor to bring FC to around 20ppm, and then very aggressively added enough acid, in 1 oz drops, to get the TA to 120 in one day (same day as the fill). Then, in 6 gallon buckets, I pre-dissolved enough cal hypo to shock the tub up to 50ppm. (I have a softener, and added enough hard water and soft water mix to bring my CH to about what I'd need to use the cal hypo, instead of dichlor which adds unwanted CYA). I let the cal hypo do its thing around dusk, running the pump for an hour. Then I left it in the sun the next day to bring FC back down to around 3ppm.

Then, after testing, my CC was still around 5ppm. The only noticeable change after shocking with cal hypo was the smell. When you turn on the jets, it doesn't smell like chlorine anymore. Maybe it smells like amonia? It's a smell I'm not accustomed to. I am guessing the smell is related to DBP's generated from superchlorination.

So... my leading theories are that there's a dead animal stuck in the lines someplace. The pump and the jets seem to work okay - so if there is one, it's not obvious. (the filter is new, and i've cleaned it with a hose using soft water on each fill.) The other theory is that there's something in my well water that's producing chlormaines that are highly resistant to oxidation. It's not unheard of for wells in my area to have nitrates in them. I've read that organic chloramines are extremely difficult to break down, and I think nitrates would produce organic chloramines (?). The prescription I've seen for this is draining and re-filling with fresh water, but if the contaminats are coming from "fresh water", that won't help.

The tub I have has an ozonator. It's producing bubbles, so I assume it's working.

My thoughts are: 1) try a non-chlorine shock, like MPS. But, my CC are so high that it would be an exceptionally high dosage of that type of shock. I don't know whether that's a great idea. I absolutely do not want to end up in a situation where I have to drain the tub again, if it can be avoided. I can't tell you how time consuming it is to dump 18oz of acid into a 190 gallon tub. It literally makes me want to cry to think about doing it a 4th time in 10 days.

The other idea is to get an aquarium UV lamp off Amazon. That wouldn't hurt anything, but I'm not sure whether it'll help. I have a whole-home UV disinfection system for my well water, which sits just past the water softener. So all the soft water entering the tub has already been UV treated... but, on the other hand, the wholke-home UV system wouldn't have had any action on potential nitrates - since they weren't bound by chlorine when they passed the UV bulb prior to entering the tub. (All of our drinking water goes through point-of-use RO filtration inside the house, so using RO water to fill the tub isn't practical.)

So.... apologies for the length of my post... but any thoughts? I am willing to try anything at this point!
 
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We have tub owners here with more experience than me like @Mdragger88, but I would provide two initial pieces of advice:
1 - Do a thorough Ah-Some purge treatment. Even factory-new tubs have oils and junk lining the tub and lines that chlorine alone doesn't cut through.
2 - See our hot tubs sticky below. Even though you are on a well, it provides some very good tips on initial fill and beyond.

Others will reply soon I'm sure. Hang tight.

 
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Second the Ahhsome purge. Did on my new tub, loads of stuff came out

Great! I just ordered a 6oz bottle directly from the company. Hopefully I'll have it tomorrow.

There was definitely some excess... maybe, silicone lubricant? ... that was on the hoses and pump/heater that we discovered when wiring up the 240V service. I didn't think that stuff would react to chlorine. Hopefully that (and related materials) is what's mucking me up!
 
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Purge with Ahhsome & do not exceed slam level fc for your cya
FC/CYA Levels
Follow the guide Texas Splash posted upon refill.
You are risking your shell & equipment with such high fc levels.
How old are your reagents?
What test kit do you have?
Have you cleaned your cylinder with alcohol lately(if not do this)
 
Purge with Ahhsome & do not exceed slam level fc for your cya
FC/CYA Levels
Follow the guide Texas Splash posted upon refill.
You are risking your shell & equipment with such high fc levels.
How old are your reagents?
What test kit do you have?
Have you cleaned your cylinder with alcohol lately(if not do this)

In regard to the latter question... I haven't cleaned anything recently, except the filter. I made a bad assumption that, since the tub was new, it wouldn't need much maintenance or cleaning to get started. When I had a gunite/plaster pool built long ago, there wasn't anything special to do really - just start regular maintenance. I used a TF-100 back then and didn't have any issues with water chemistry.

I'm using a 2006C Taylor test kit today, and all the reagents expire the middle of next year. I also have an Apera pH meter that's been calibrated, and seemingly matches the values I've seen from the drop test/comparitor.

Anyway, I've been told that breakpoint chlorination is achieved at 10X the CC level. That was super high with a dose of dichlor, but more reasonable at my current CYA (30) - which was why my last attempt was at 55ppm FC.

If the chlorine destroyed this hot tub, it would be a blessing in disguise. My next fill may be 99% gasoline and 1% sparks. I am pretty sure that would properly disinfect and sanitize!
 
Don’t blow it up just yet!
Give the Ahhsome a shot- it may take several rounds until no more detritus is released. You don’t have to drain after each dose round- just add 1/2 the initial dose & go again. You should be wiping & scooping out the funk as it’s released. When the foam dies down let it rest a little bit with the jets off (i wait like 30 minutes- some people wait longer if it was really gross) then do the 1/2 dose & go again. Be sure not to let the expelled biofilms dry on the shell.
Whilst purging throw your filters in & any head rests, removable jet packs etc.
here’s a video how to:
 
Don’t blow it up just yet!
Give the Ahhsome a shot- it may take several rounds until no more detritus is released. You don’t have to drain after each dose round- just add 1/2 the initial dose & go again. You should be wiping & scooping out the funk as it’s released. When the foam dies down let it rest a little bit with the jets off (i wait like 30 minutes- some people wait longer if it was really gross) then do the 1/2 dose & go again. Be sure not to let the expelled biofilms dry on the shell.
Whilst purging throw your filters in & any head rests, removable jet packs etc.
here’s a video how to:

After the first application, the foam was completley white - and there was no residue at all, anywhere, on any part of the tub. I hosed everything down while my sump pump sucked it all out, and scrubbed it all dry with microfiber towels.

Since there wasn't any residue, I stopped with just that one treatment.

Fill #4 is underway. I'm not sure if anything I did helped, but we'll see what happens next!
 
After the first application, the foam was completley white - and there was no residue at all, anywhere, on any part of the tub. I hosed everything down while my sump pump sucked it all out, and scrubbed it all dry with microfiber towels.

Since there wasn't any residue, I stopped with just that one treatment.

Fill #4 is underway. I'm not sure if anything I did helped, but we'll see what happens next!

No guarantees of course, but I can't help but think at 55 ppm CHL and fairly low CYA that anything biofilm related is dead. I did that too (not as high) and a subsequent eventual purge with ahh-some! didn't release much of anything though my CHL demand went a bit lower.

@Mdragger88's thoughts on test kit accuracy, etc. seemed spot-on.

Perhaps there's something in your well water that generates a false high cc reading, but if so it's the first I'm hearing about it and the ammonia smell you described supports the high CC is plausible. Maybe a filter on the hose when you fill would help, since it's only 190 gallons but I think @JoyfulNoise indicated they are really only good for about 50 gallons (?). Maybe Matt will join in with some ideas, he's (one of) our chemical experts...

I'm going to suggest calling the manufacturer if it's a new tub too. Sometimes if they come out at least you get a few freebies while they try to figure things out (I got a new filter on a service call from MasterSpas).

Sorry if this is decidedly un-helpful, I'm stumped but maybe you were onto something - like maybe an infestation of something in the lines ... removing the jets might allow for expulsion if so, but like I said, I'm totally clueless. 5 ppm is a lot considering how high you had CHL levels ... totally stumped :scratch:
 
Perhaps there's something in your well water that generates a false high cc reading, but if so it's the first I'm hearing about it and the ammonia smell you described supports the high CC is plausible. Maybe a filter on the hose when you fill would help, since it's only 190 gallons but I think

I don't think it was a false reading. We've had some heavy rains recently, and there are a lot of old septic tanks, along with abandoned and cracked well heads, here in my neighborhood. We also had our streets repaved and all that black runoff is flowing through the front ditches, where our wells are located. This is my first year living here, so I don't know how much of this, if anything, is relevant.

But, the good news is that fill #4 seemed to turn out okay! I'm sure the Ahh-some helped, and maybe our water quality improved too since the heavy rains and ended, and all the early rainy season runoff is finished.

I think I will use the hose / in-line water filters when I re-fill in 90 days. It couldn't hurt, and would save a lot of headaches if it helped.

Now, I have another very unusual problem. I purchased the Pool Essentials 10% liquid chlorine from Home Depot... and it seems like the chlorine is *stronger* than expected, based on the Pool Math calculations. For example, when I add 15ml of the chlorine, it gives me about a 3.5ppm bump in FC, compared to the +2.1ppm increase predicted by the app.

When I had a pool a long time ago, I also used the TFP method - and with the Great Value bleach, I never, not once, never ever, had a bigger FC number than expected/predicted. Even with the freshest bleach the yeild was spot on, or a tad bit lower.

I'm pretty sure I'm using the app correctly - as the calculations for dry acid, calcium chloride, borates (via the expected increase in alkalinity from 20 mule), etc. were all correct. Good problem to have, I guess?
 
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Either Your volume is off or your bleach is stronger than advertised.
If your acid additions are yielding expected results with
PoolMath
then maybe you just got a strong batch of bleach - this is a good problem to have!
Way better than paying all that 💰 for weak bleach!
P.S. - glad to hear you’re not going to burn it down! The filter sounds like a good idea 👍🏻
 
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