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Thanks to TFP I've had fantastic luck keeping the pool balanced the last several years. honestly no problems but the last 3-4 weeks seeing small random patches of algae. When I say small maybe a strip 3 inch by 6 inch etc, 2-3 of these in random areas every 2-3 days....hit them w/ the brush...

Helping a friend w/ a pool at a new house. I brought my Taylor kit over and my water has always stayed between 7-8 pH range, always readable just using R-0004. But his water is dark red after R-0004 (44ml sample), looks darker than the red for a pH of 8. pH meter reports the water at about...

One of my skimmers is closed/sealed off. It has a standard square skimmer lid on top, w/ the hole for easy removal. However I've found the critters (mice tiny frogs find their way in, and since I almost never check the closed skimmer I have found some truly scary scary remains in there. So...

My fill water has a pH of 7 and has a good amount of iron. I filter out some of the iron but it still gets in there. If I keep my pH at 7, the iron doesn't cause stains and the vinyl stays stain free and water is clear. Whenever I bring it up to say 7.4, or above the Iron in the water starts...

Following this plan: Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains But wondering if slight modification will still work in terms of the order of the process. Added polyquat, have FC down to about 2...pH down to 7.2. The instructions say ascorbic acid next then sequestrant after stains...

Narrowed down a pool leak to skimmer line, then did a pressure test to confirm. Then he used a cam to verify the crack is right after the elbow below the skimmer. So to dig down, cut the line, due another pressure test after the cut ( to make sure not any other issues w/ the line) repair crack...

Reviewed the TFP FAQ for finding leaks and after some research looking for suggested next steps: -Did bucket measure to verify water loss over 1 week period: Pool lost 4.5 inches of water over the week (this is above and beyond evaporation). -Over the week I ran the pump 12 hours on/12 hours...

Have a new VS Pentair pump. When it ramps up in the morning it primes for a few min at 3000 rpm (about 10 psi at filter), then shifts to 2100 rpm for about 3 hours (about 6 psi at filter), all good so far, then I have it shift down to 1600 for several hours in the cycle, for the first couple...

Considering conversion to SWG. I don't use a heater, live in MA and actually prefer swimming in colder water. We will start using when temps hit ~62, but most of the season I would say we run between 65-70 (late may/ june) up to max of 80 (late July). I know the SWG generally have a cutoff at...

Pool Math was a little ambiguous on most efficient method to raise pH and TA at the same time. FC 6 CC 0 cya 40 pH 6.8 TA 50 Vinyl, 30K gallons would like to raise pH to 7.4 and TA to 80...thinking soda ash is best method to use to raise both at same time most efficiently, is that correct? Thx

Seems to have a lot of air in the line this year. Recently opened, not seeing water loss to indicate a leak etc and pump filter are working (water clear).….but there is something strange going on this season. 1. The pump pressure keeps rising from normal (~11) gradually over 24 hours to 17-18...

Just opened pool, looks pretty good going through standard start-up processes to clean up water. Current readings: FC: 14 CC: 0 CYA: 30 pH: 8.4+ TA: 50 TH: 80 I know I need to wait until FC comes down below 10 to get accurate pH reading, but would FC of 14 cause that much of a reading skew...

I was vacuuming to waste and a small emergency pulled me away for ~ 40 min...when I could get back to the pool, the water was below skimmer, and I'm guessing given the previous water level, it probably ran for ~20 min sucking air at the skimmer. Pump was still going but did I do long term...

Water chemistry is good and has been very stable: FC 8 CC 0 pH 7.6 TA 80 CYA 70 the water is clear and blue, but every time I add a few inches of fill water (1x a week) the water turns a slight green color....lasts about 12 hours then back to blue for the week. Trying to figure out what is in...

Wanted opinion on my pH reading interpretation....so after reagent it looks somewhere between 7.8 and 8, if I was to give it a number I'd say 7.9, but if I add 2 drops of acid it goes down to no higher then 7.2, so going by that I'd say it's really 7.6 (or lower), so I've been splitting the...

So maybe I just need to do a few more rounds because luckily my pH rise is pretty slow but I feel like I'm dumping in materials and it's close to going in a circle. So water is balanced and clear FC 9 CC 0 pH 7.8 TA 70 CYA 70 Since converting away from dichlor to liquid chlorine my pH has...

Finally fully tested my tap/well water to verify what I'm adding to pool, other then the high pH (it's high on purpose, treat raises it to remove iron & manganese at filter) other numbers seem good I assume? Is CH at 50 considered hard or soft? My CH in pool is about 100, is that additive to...

After adopting TFP principles and getting pool in balance (thanks so much TFP!), I'm wondering if there is any problem introducing cal-hypo at least part time into the chlorination process. Finding 65% pricing to be at least in line w/ what I can find for 10% bleach locally and much easier to...

My filter timer recently died so been turning off/on manually, but we are going away for 3 to 4 days. Pool is nicely balanced so plan to bump up FC for 4 days of loss, but is it OK to leave filter off all that time or should it run 24x7? Neighbors away as well so practically it's all or...

I'd like to get at least a months supply (maybe 2 months) of liquid chlorine at a time. Need a little less then 1/2 gallon/day to maintain balanced FC, so a case (12 gallons) is just about perfect for a month supply. Assuming it's fairly fresh and I keep it in outdoor shed, will 10% maintain...

Thanks to TFP for the Very helpful education the last few weeks and helping me get out pool in balance. Have a question about CYA. I've got mine down to ~70, but it's a pain lowering it and while I'd like it to get down to about 50 eventually, I'm wondering if it's that important and if I...

12.5% strength seems to be the highest concentration of liquid chlorine, which during a SLAM w/ you have higher CYA required lots of bottles, lots of plastic trash waste, lots of storage etc...seems inefficient (vs granule storage and use which has 50-60% concentrations). I wonder if chemically...

So after several streams of investigation, determined we have a leak in one of the return lines (it's responsible for a little under 2 inches of loss /week above and beyond evaporation). Anyone tried this ( Amazon.com : Fix A Leak Pool Leak Sealer - 32 oz : Swimming Pool Liners : Garden...

This has probably been posted before and prob how TFP balance rules were established...but I found the background details useful and how CYA "holds" the FC. New Thinking: Chlorine/Cyanuric Acid In Balance - AQUA Magazine Couple of thoughts: -It states that general rule is 7.5% FC to CYA...

We have well water, it goes through an oxidizer filter system then to a softener (sodium), I incorrectly thought our spigot used to fill the pool came after oxidizer filter but before softener, but I just realized it's not the case it's after softener. Anyway any potential issues w/ softened...

Coming off a SLAM (that sounds a lot more fun then it is ;) , it worked and the FC slowly coming down, see numbers below. FC:15 CC: 0 pH: 7.4 TA:80 CYA: 70 -On the CYA/FC chart for CYA of 70 it lists target FC as 8-10, but if it's still coming down and at 15 is it ok to swim? I assume...

So as I read about higher CYA levels, seems partial water replacement/dilution is the best method to lower CYA, but what is CYA's 'natural' degradation rate in a balanced pool? I ask because I normally use dichlor to maintain FC levels, and it would seem if there wasn't some type of CYA loss...

So w/ the Taylor FC test you can use 25 ML or 10 ML, I use 10 ML sample when slamming because when FC is high it takes a lot of reagent to get FC number....especially if SLAM takes several days and lots of tests. At 10 ML each drop of reagent equates to to .5 PPM FC so at FC's at 24 for...

So I just got a new Taylor 2006 test kit (based on suggestions on this forum had used strips until now) and just did first tests and find I have several items to balance, some drastically and looking for suggestions in the order to tackle them: IG Pool 34,000 Gallons /Vinyl Well water DE filter...