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i thought the Home Depot stuff was 12 maybe it's 10. Anyways I'm waiting on shipping, and looks like it's not going to be here for a bit. So i got distracted and found this, again outside of my price range for being lazy, but interesting.

interesting point, so, can someone tell me why 12.5% Cl is more expensive in a 55G drum than in individual 1 Gal containers ($3.5-4 each)

also, is there any reason other than style that i cant just drape (affixed using cable ties adhesive or w/e) the hose over the lip of the pool by the jet with it dripping down into the pool vs hard plumbing it. With the cheap peristatic pump I am using idk if it could manage to overcome the back...

biggest thing i'm worried about at this point is I wanted a bulkhead fitting to go into the side of the Cl container (with an air check valve in the lid (aquarium aerator inline type), but there don't appear to be any with a 2mm hose barb for a reasonable price. I am considering 3D printing one...

Specifically I was looking for a cheap methodology. Stenner pumps are like 350 and that dosent take into account the container/tubing/fittings etc. I think I am going to try the cheap one I listed with a 5G bucket and an outdoor smart outlet I already own.

well, 1 my AGP has metal top ridge frame thingies and i've been told that it would rust even quicker with SWCG. 2 the "cheap" Peristaltic Dosing Pump's have ridiculously small tubing like 2mm ID tubing, I'm finding trouble finding any fittings to work with it to connect it to a container that...

lol, why re-invent the wheel. Amazon.com: Gikfun 12V Adjustable Peristaltic Dosing Pump Liquid Metering Water Pump with Adapter DIY for Aquarium Lab Analytical for Arduino EK1961: Home Improvement and a smart plug = much much easier.

So I was thinking of making something so I only have to deal with Cl like 2x a month. This is going to get hairy. So, saw this on amazon - Amazon.com: DC 12V Solenoid Valve, DN20 G3/4" 1 In 4 Out Normally Closed Plastic Electromagnetic Switch Water Drain Flow Switch Solenoid Valve: Home...

so, got the new caps in and went to go try, pump turned off and back on just fine (edit without replacing cap). Figure I've got caps waiting now, and if new one doesn't fix, then I'll try looking more into the centrifugal switch thing. Side note, that pool store you posted a pic of.... called...

I called the local CPE Supply and they told me granger would be the only place around, I just ordered one on Amazon. Might not get here before I leave, but oh well.

Have you tried maintaining a slightly higher than recommended FC? Also if your pool gets a lot of sun, maybe try a higher cya level.

How about a plumbing snake?

I guess the cap from the old well pump could also be bad and I just don't know how to test one with a voltmeter (without a capacitance seeing).

To preface I am in the middle of a SLAM. So I was backflowing my sand filter earlier today and turned the pump off before manipulating the valve as normal, tuned it on, did the backflow, turned it off, set to the one that pushes sand back down, and tried turning it back on. It just hummed at me...

Yeah, you wanna order more Reagent asap. To do a good job at a SLAM you just gotta know. Brett's comment is a good one for short term, at least it can measure above 5 ppm vs OHO or cringe strips.

90+% of ppl dont use the higher definition tests as it doesnt really effect the chem adds.

So now i have let FC drop to 5, TA is still reading 0 (turns red immediately) and pH is reading quite low. Washing soda time or new reagents time? why is it so hard to find PoolMath it is my favorite, easy to use

we had monsoons down here in ga this year, think it was on average 2-3 ft deep of a 4 ft pool.

Theoretically you would need to be twice as accurate with your drop sizes and 5 ml measurement to obtain the same accuracy with a test half the size. Though 50% difference points to something more.

They also make strainer basket socks, some ppl just use pantihoes. Something to possibly try? Also if you havent seen any improvement, make sure the bottom is actually clear of debris. Last year I had a pool that i turned green to blue and wouldn't clear for ages, turned out I hadent gotten all...

Looks like your well on your way if you can get wheelbarrow loads out! For Cl for every bit of solids you have left you have to imagine you need Cl to oxidase it. During this pandemic i would even go so far as to say that I would wait till I was 90% getting the solids out before I even started...

i wonder if the sand filter would do better with very small suspended oxidatied solids with the pump in slow speed (less likely to be flowing through channels in sand).

no, the FAS-DPD i use is taylor (TFP recommended one), but the Hardness, TA, OHO, PH is Hth it's probably time to replace the HTH stuff.

Hmmm, wonder if my test kit is getting old on Hardness and TA (pH hardness and TA are the oldest reagents) FC 16 CC 0.5 pH N/A TA 0-10 Hardness 0 Though a good portion of the water in the pool is rainwater by my estimation.

Just my 2C real quick, the reason we don't go with Pool Store tests is they are so unreliable to be laughable (50% or more error margin). They likely are a kid on summer vacation or are intent on selling you something. In your example, the dude was "willing to comp the stabilizer"... after...

your readouts seem to not match the percision of the tests we do Please check the following: https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/fas-dpd-chlorine-test/ https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/category/pool-school/extended-test-kit-directions/ If your pool is green, time to SLAM...

I am not proficient with SWCGs. That being said till it is operational you need to treat it as if it doesn't have one. Aka use liquid Cl and keep it in band according to your CYA. As you have no CYA you would use that portion of the chart (Chlorine / CYA Chart - Trouble Free Pool) the non-SWCG...

I'll do it next time I check FC. Also I take the unpopular opinion of using pucks until I get cya up where I want it. Thereby having to add cl less, (less overall maintenance) and calculating how many Puck containers /pucks I need to go thru before testing, then switching over to liquid (giving...

thanks, thought i remembered something like that

Tried testing it. Went kinda overboard with the Cl add last night... FC: 30 CC: 0 CYA: ~30 or a little less PH: 6.8 or a little lower I don't know that TA or Hardness were accurate at that FC level so leaving them off for now (Vinyl pool anyways) Pool is cloudy blue, and i can more or less see...