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I saw a post on a related problem where the pool owner had tried to fix the problem using an aftermarket check valve flapper, then based on advice from TFP readers, replaced it with an OEM valve and that solved his problem. So I did the same, replacing the aftermarket flapper I had used to get...

I did the test and the spa did not drain, so I replaced the Jandy check valve and it drained half as much overnight, so that was a help. Any suggestions on what else is needed to stop it draining altogether?

I have 2 check valves and I'm not sure which is failing. After the spa had refilled I turned off the pump and disassembled both check valves as well as the Jandy valve and everything looked fine to my unprofessional eyes. I would have expected the water level in the spa to drop while the valves...

It was the same product. I added some last year and it seemed to work then.

Back in March my CYA was 50. I added 5 lbs of conditioner (ClearView primo powder Pool Water Conditioner & Stabilizer 99% isocyanuric acid) over the course of a few weeks and it didn't budge. That was using a sock in the skimmer. A little over a week ago I added 43 more ounces this time with the...

Thanks for all the feedback. This is why I love this site. :) Isn't a drain and refill essentially the same as an exchange? Our rain mostly comes in July. We might get some spring rains in April. Also regarding the CH test itself, for me when the color of the water changes, it goes from red...

Moved from HERE Since my CH was at 900 and my CYA had spiked I decided to do a water exchange. Here are my readings before and after: Water Temp 62 degrees F BEFORE AFTER FILL WATER (TAP) PH 7.9 7.9 7.9 FC 7.0 4.0 0.5 CC 0 0 0 TC 7.0 4.0 0.5 TA 70 100 100 CYA 100 <30 (the black...

jdtessi - what was the outcome of your experiment? Was there a difference in the temperature by running the chlorinator at a lower level? I have an LM2-24 with the same problem.

Donation gladly made.

I woke up this morning to zero overnight chlorine loss, no sign of algae and the water was already sparkling yesterday, so I'm done SLAMing. I turned my SWG back on, added stabilizer to raise CYA and added acid to lower my TA. Thanks again for the support, and especially for the quick responses...

The SLAM is going well. My pool looks much better, thank you all. I've been regular in brushing and adding chlorine, which leads to my next question. I've seen the directive to add liquid chemicals slowly in front of a return repeated so many times there must be some reason for doing it that...

I added CYA yesterday and today (sock isn't big enough to hold all I needed to add at one time) and expect it to be completely dissolved by morning. In a different post Brett S recommended waiting for 24 hours after all the CYA is dissolved and then test the CYA level again to confirm it's at...

I was not expecting this answer so I added salt last night. Does that change what I should do?

I bought a small 1/3 hp submersible pump and did the exchange over 48 hours and it's now done. Here are my new readings: Temp: 81 degrees pH: 7.8 Salt: 1000 CH: 350 TA: 160 CYA: 0 TC: 0 The Chlorine/CYA chart article seems to indicate I shouldn't SLAM until CYA is at 70. Am I reading that right?

Thanks for the warning!

However, this made me go look at my pool filter plumbing, and I think I can just set my backwash valve to waste and pump the water out that way. I can then use my pump timer to manage the discharge during the night when it's cooler instead of having to stay up late to manually turn off and on...

The CH is what I was wondering about. According to my SWG manual, the salt level should be a minimum of 4000, so after I do the exchange I will have to bring it back to that level. I haven't had to SLAM my pool in a while, but I assume I can start it the same time I add salt.

Unfortunately, no. Although I have bottom drains in the pool, I can't figure out where they go. My main drain setting just empties my spa into my pool.

So I don't remember what excuse I gave myself for not following the experts' advice to do a water exchange in response to my post last August. Maybe I was thinking I would wait until the winter, then got distracted when my wife had a knee replacement, or the wet winter led me to believe I could...

I consistently have pH around 8. I add muriatic acid to bring it down to 7.0 or 7.2 to avoid scale buildup on my SWG cell. Invariably it rises back up. I do have a thin stream of water flowing from my spa into the pool just to keep the water in the spa moving. I have seen other posts where users...

Thanks for the response. The answer to both your questions are yes, on Saturday. I just checked the app and see the the recommended FC is now 6. I click on your member name and see Latest Activity, Postings, and About. No PoolMath data.

I'm a long time user of the old pool math table, but read that it is no longer being maintained (don't know what maintenance would be required, but anyway...) so I switched to the Android app. I can't figure out how to use it. Are there instructions? I log in, get to the home screen, tap on the...

I'd be glad to, except I've reached my space limit for attachments in this post apparently, and don't know how to remove any. Should I post it somewhere else?

Thanks for pointing that out. I never knew what that was and it doesn't look like any check valve I've seen on the web. I opened it up and found no debris, so I moved it back and forth to loosen it up and that seems to have worked. No more draining from the spa to the pool! This is why I love...

Here are the pics. Let me know if you have questions about anything you see. The ball valve with the broken handles has been in that position for a long time.

Thanks for the reply. I don't see anything that looks like a check valve on any of the visible plumbing. Maybe I'm not discerning enough. Where most likely would it be?

I have a spa attached to my pool and it sits a little higher than the pool. For the last few weeks now, after my pool pump shuts off my spa drains to my pool until the water level is the same in both. I have a jandy valve that directs the flow between the main drain and the skimmer or cleaner...