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The position of the label does have one effect. There is a stop built in to the molded top of the valve that prevents the handle to moving to the position that would close off the "Inlet". I also note that in the OP's picture the "Fan Sprays" line is not shut off. @Roox911 Will the valve...

The jumper not being cut would certainly explain the error codes and early failure of the cell. I think you need to have a conversation with the installer about a warranty replacement, and maybe exchange your now compromised, if not dead, 700 cell for a 1400.

The threads on normal toilet valves are 3/4" Hose size (normal garden hose size). Don't if that is true for your fill valve, but it should be easy enough to test. If that is the case most HW stores (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) have PVC adapters from 3/4 hose to 3/4 IP so a pair of such adapters...

If the jugs are well rinsed it should not be any problem either with recycling them in general or putting them in the same container. I typically dunk them in the pool to get a cup or two of water in them put on the cap, shake well, and dump the contents back in the pool.

The connections look like unions on both sides, so they should just unscrew. Then I suspect the main housing unscrews apart into the two halves. Might be a good location to add an SWG if you were thinking of one.

Agreed a NG heater is what you are going to need. I would also recommend adding an auto-cover. Having the pool covered will make a big difference in the amount of heat needed to keep the pool warm.

The use of R-0004 or R-0014 as the indicator for this test would seem to significant gain. For one it is one less thing folks would need to go out and buy to do test, and second it should eliminate the need for the R-0007 to be added since it already has a Chlorine inhibitor in it. It also...

I just lined up RO for my 6100 gallon pool in the Los Angeles area to be done in late October. $700.

Ah, good catch, revising the calculation: 22,000/ ( 1.16 * 45,000 ) = 0.42 Degree C per hour heat rise. So a bit better. It is also important to note the operating conditions for that spec which is 27C air and 25C water. If the air is substantially cooler than the water the available...

As to what happened, the brief power outages cause the microprocessor that runs your automation to crash (instead of cleanly restart which is what should have happened). Back in the day when I designed embedded systems I recall it it was very difficult to build power/reset circuits that could...

Since you don't use British Thermal Units any more on your side of pond, I'll do the calculation in metric units. 45k Liters is 45,000 kg. Heat capacity of water is 1.16 Watt-hours per kg per degree C. According to the table above that heatpump will produce 17.5kW of heat to the pool =...

My first thought is Black Algae The pumice stone bricks sold in hardware stores for scrubbing toilet bowl rings can be effective, but will probably require diving. (I have memories of doing exactly that as a teenager.)

Great. That is what I would have assumed, but thought maybe there could be some path were the Boron got locked up as a salt or something. Might be worth adding a bit of explanation to that article.

The Wiki article on Borates includes the statement: Is there a mechanism by which the borates degrade? Or is this statement just assuming some amount of water loss over the season due to backflushing, vacuum, or that strange phenomenon called rain that I hear happens in some places?

From the pictures my guess would be that it is the pool structure that has sunk down hill, as there looks like a pretty steep slope behind the pool. Is there any noticeable difference in the where the water is on the tile line from one side of the pool to the other? On the bright side if it...

My guess (from the rust streak I can see on your filter) is the air-bleed valve on top of your filter may be leaking slightly. Let the system get fully primed and running normally then shut it down and listen carefully. With a bit of luck you might hear the hiss of air from wherever the leak is.

If it were me I would be happy with extra foot of depth.

Those are the "heater" spare pair of contact. Yes I would put a wirenut on them just to make sure they don't come into contact with any of the live terminals. It looks pretty clean and dry inside. But if the pumps run when you manually switch on, then you've got good voltage. The only...

Indeed if you have one of the "no contact" tester it can very difficult to see if there actually is the proper voltage. If the covers were indeed open in a rainstorm that could have indeed the cause of the failure.

Do you have a meter or voltage tester? If so check the clock motor power on the timers (left most two lugs on most of these). They might have a common power source separate from the pumps.

Assuming the house has power I would probably see if a temporary hookup can be run.

Yep that was the idea, and sounds like it will be pretty cheap to test if you have the Plexiglass available! Let us know if it works and post photos!

I agree with Mark that a diffuser of some sort is probably what's needed. At the moment the circular wall of the pool is effectively focusing any waves right back at the source (you). As for material I suspect that some sort of sheet plastic is the thing to use, acrylic or Lexan or maybe even...

My family's pool down in the Imperial Valley has a similar arrangement 3 heads along one side of the pool. With a bit of care adjusting the valves they can be set to cover maybe 75% of the surface. Good for getting the water back into the 80s when that string of 110-120 degree days comes along.

I have had good results ordering from Amazon as well. The reagents are often not "factory fresh", as I think most have 2 years of dating when they leave taylor, but I have never gotten less than a year and have no worries about using them up before they expire.

Depending on how long you are running it your little "aerator" sprinkler can provide quite a lot of cooling.

Farmers where I grew up would often fertilized their crops by injecting anhydrous ammonia into the irrigation water. The rise in PH would instantly induce a cloud of calcium precipitates out of the Colorado River water Resulting an a layer the better part of a foot thick in the bottom of the...

These are not normally glued, and I suspect your's isn't either but rather is bound in place by the accumulated dirt and debris. My first attempt might be to take a pressure washer (if you have one) or just a good hose nozzle aimed at the seam and see if you loosen it up.

All I know is that the technician arrived with the gallon jug (label pictured several posts above) and added half to the pool shortly after it was filled, and then added the second half a few days later. When I queried the owner of the service about the quantity via email I got the response...

It may not be quite as bad as I made it sound. Quoting from the email from the maintenance company that did the startup: Per the product label the recommended amount would have been ~ 16oz for my pool volume. In any event that was 9 months ago, and per @JoyfulNoise the HEDP has probably...