Main drain line corrosion signs

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Jimrahbe said:
Pro,

If the original salt system was installed by a pool builder, or pro, you can DIY replace the cell itself and it will be under warranty.

Turn off the power to the cell, and then turn the power back on..

Does the Red and Green salt lights flash back and forth like a railroad crossing? This usually take a couple of minutes to complete.. (It is testing the salt level)
Does the cell have green flow light??
What other lights are on. If any..?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
You won’t believe this, but I just turned the system on, and after a minute of the red/green light dance, it finally turned solid green. It looks like I was rushing and should have given the salt more time to dissolve in the pool. Although today was very hot here in California, so that might have helped.

I also ordered a digital salt tester and should be able to check it tomorrow since my test strips are all gone.

I wanted to ask, what level should I set the sanitizer output to—4% or 6%? And one more thing: is 5 hours of pump and cell generator runtime enough, or should I be running it for more time, especially since the high season is coming?


Thanks for all your help, Jim! You’re my best pool friend! 😊
 
proluxline said:
I also ordered a digital salt tester and should be able to check it tomorrow since my test strips are all gone.
Click to expand...
I would get a test kit and make sure that it includes a salt test. If we are going to work on chemistry next, you need a proper kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
I'd get the TF-100 SALT or the TFPro SALT. The drop kits are much more accurate and less fussy than the digital testers. I have two of them sitting unused for a couple years. I'd return the digital.
proluxline said:
I wanted to ask, what level should I set the sanitizer output to—4% or 6%?
Click to expand...
Get pool math. Link-->PoolMath
Log in with the same TFP UN/Password.
Configure your pool, including the salt cell...it will know how much your cell makes.
You can then play with runtime and % output to see how much it produces in your pool. My guess right now in GA, you are using 2FC per day.
 
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Pro,

Just want to make sure we are all on the same page...

The % of output is just how long the cell will be on in each cycle.. So, at 50%, the cell will be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for 2.5 minutes.. The cell is just an on and off device.. it is either on or off... The cell is dumb as a rock.. It has no clue how much chlorine is in the water. It has no brain. You have to be the brain on how it works.. You have to measure the FC in the water, then decide if you need more or less.. If you need the SWCG to generate more chlorine, you will have to increase the output or run the pump longer.. If you need the SWCG to generate less chlorine, you will have to lower the SWCG's output.. or reduce your run time.

I can't see where running your pump for 5 hours, even if the cell is set to 100% is going to be long enough to generate the amount of chlorine your pool will need..

The amount of FC (Chlorine) you need in your pool has a direct relationship with the amount of CYA in the water..

See the saltwater section of this chart.. FC/CYA Levels

Please tell me the size of your pool in gallons.

When you put a lot of salt in your pool you should not even test it, for 24 hours...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Would you take a moment and fill out your signature? Would really help us...help you.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

tom cruise dr dres anatomy GIF
 
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PoolStored said:
I would get a test kit and make sure that it includes a salt test. If we are going to work on chemistry next, you need a proper kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
I'd get the TF-100 SALT or the TFPro SALT. The drop kits are much more accurate and less fussy than the digital testers. I have two of them sitting unused for a couple years. I'd return the digital.

Get pool math. Link-->PoolMath
Log in with the same TFP UN/Password.
Configure your pool, including the salt cell...it will know how much your cell makes.
You can then play with runtime and % output to see how much it produces in your pool. My guess right now in GA, you are using 2FC per day.
Click to expand...
thank you so much I downloaded and installed the app. will start logging the numbers.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Pro,

Just want to make sure we are all on the same page...

The % of output is just how long the cell will be on in each cycle.. So, at 50%, the cell will be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for 2.5 minutes.. The cell is just an on and off device.. it is either on or off... The cell is dumb as a rock.. It has no clue how much chlorine is in the water. It has no brain. You have to be the brain on how it works.. You have to measure the FC in the water, then decide if you need more or less.. If you need the SWCG to generate more chlorine, you will have to increase the output or run the pump longer.. If you need the SWCG to generate less chlorine, you will have to lower the SWCG's output.. or reduce your run time.

I can't see where running your pump for 5 hours, even if the cell is set to 100% is going to be long enough to generate the amount of chlorine your pool will need..

The amount of FC (Chlorine) you need in your pool has a direct relationship with the amount of CYA in the water..

See the saltwater section of this chart.. FC/CYA Levels

Please tell me the size of your pool in gallons.

When you put a lot of salt in your pool you should not even test it, for 24 hours...

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
hi Jim, lots of stuff to learn from you guys. So my pool size is 15x30 ft, about 20k gallon. I just want to ask, let's say my actual salt level I measured is normal, what percentage should I setup for sanitizer output? Here is a picture of my pool and IC40.
 

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Did you get pool math? Effects of adding function can help you.

This time of the year with full sun in GA, you might be using 1-2 FC per day.

Your cell, set to 50% and 12 hours of runtime will make 2.1 FC. I'd probably start about there or maybe a bit higher (you can always lower it...saves you from FC getting low.

You can then play with output and runtime from there.

We don't recommend running a cell at 100% for long periods.
 
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Pro,

An IC40 will make 1.4 lbs. of chlorine gas when run 24 hours at 100%.. This will increase your FC by 8.4 ppm. or .35 ppm per hour (Kind of why you need a 40K cell on a 20K pool..)

Most pools use 2 to 4 ppm per day in the summer. So, let's use 3 ppm per day.. We will need to add about 3 ppm of FC per day.. That means at 100% output you will need to run your pump about 8.5 hours.. And.. since no one wants to run at 100%, as you would have no room to adjust, let's run at 50%.. That means you would need to run about 17 hours a day.

If you are going to have to run 17 hours a day, why not run 24/7??? (Kind of why a VS pump is the only kind of pump to have with a SWCG..)

Pool math can help you figure all that out.

To start off with, set your SWCG output to 50% and then routinely test and determine if you need to go up or down..

It is best to not try to micromanage the cell.. It never hurts to have too much FC and it is a disaster to have too little FC.. So, you try to keep your FC at or above the recommend FC for your CYA level.

I am sure all this is kind of overwhelming.. But trust me.. After a week or so, it will all make sense. And, once you learn how it all works, you can cut back testing to once a week or less once you learn how your pool works.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
Pro,

An IC40 will make 1.4 lbs. of chlorine gas when run 24 hours at 100%.. This will increase your FC by 8.4 ppm. or .35 ppm per hour (Kind of why you need a 40K cell on a 20K pool..)

Most pools use 2 to 4 ppm per day in the summer. So, let's use 3 ppm per day.. We will need to add about 3 ppm of FC per day.. That means at 100% output you will need to run your pump about 8.5 hours.. And.. since no one wants to run at 100%, as you would have no room to adjust, let's run at 50%.. That means you would need to run about 17 hours a day.

If you are going to have to run 17 hours a day, why not run 24/7??? (Kind of why a VS pump is the only kind of pump to have with a SWCG..)

Pool math can help you figure all that out.

To start off with, set your SWCG output to 50% and then routinely test and determine if you need to go up or down..

It is best to not try to micromanage the cell.. It never hurts to have too much FC and it is a disaster to have too little FC.. So, you try to keep your FC at or above the recommend FC for your CYA level.

I am sure all this is kind of overwhelming.. But trust me.. After a week or so, it will all make sense. And, once you learn how it all works, you can cut back testing to once a week or less once you learn how your pool works.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
I appreciate your help, and others' too! But I’m a bit shocked to hear that I need to run the pump for 17 hours a day. I’ve always heard that 5-7 hours is enough—maybe that was for fresh water pools? I recently converted to a saltwater pool, so I’m not sure if that changes things.

The issue is also that the equipment is installed next to my dad's bedroom. He’ll kill me if I run the pump in the morning or evening! 😅 So, how can I compromise on this?

Also, for testing free chlorine, I currently use the simple dye method with a red and yellow plastic tube with numbers. Is there another alternative, or is that method good enough?
 

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PoolStored said:
Did you get pool math? Effects of adding function can help you.

This time of the year with full sun in GA, you might be using 1-2 FC per day.

Your cell, set to 50% and 12 hours of runtime will make 2.1 FC. I'd probably start about there or maybe a bit higher (you can always lower it...saves you from FC getting low.

You can then play with output and runtime from there.

We don't recommend running a cell at 100% for long periods.
PoolStored said:
Did you get pool math? Effects of adding function can help you.

This time of the year with full sun in GA, you might be using 1-2 FC per day.

Your cell, set to 50% and 12 hours of runtime will make 2.1 FC. I'd probably start about there or maybe a bit higher (you can always lower it...saves you from FC getting low.

You can then play with output and runtime from there.

We don't recommend running a cell at 100% for long periods.
Click to expand...
I just replied to another member, and I’m surprised to learn that I need to run the pump for such a long time to get my pool in good shape. I didn’t really know about this before.
Click to expand...
 
What RPM are you running the pump?
Turn your pump down until the SWG flow switch turns off. Then add 200rpm. Run you pump at that speed. Will be fairly quiet.
 
proluxline said:
I use intermatic wireless controller to manage both pump and swg so they turn on/off same time. And the speed i use is 2800rpm
Click to expand...
My pump and SWG runs at 1400 RPM most of the day.

Crank down the RPM and see the difference in noise.
 
proluxline said:
And the speed i use is 2800rpm
Click to expand...
Turn that baby down. Going to save you a bunch in electrical expense. Follow the procedure I gave you. And reduce the noise.
If you are not getting the skimming you want, then raise it to 1800-2000 (or whatever gets you skimming you like) for an hour a day, or couple times a day.1718839058351.png
 
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A Variable Speed pump (VS) should have continuous power and not be connected to a timer. The pump runtime should be controlled by its internal control panel and clock. A separate mechanical timer can control the SWG. Care must then be taken for the SWG timer to turn on 15 minutes after the pump begins running and SWG power off before the pump turns off. This can become a problem when house power is lost, and the pump retains the proper time while the mechanical timer does not.

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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