Standard pool electrical - Inground

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J

JThein

Member
May 16, 2021
18
Central NJ
Hi everyone. I am doing some updating on my unground pool, 16x34, 8 foot deep in deep end. I am adding a new pentair 1.75 HP variable speed pump, Hayward salt cell and possibly a Hayward omnihub. Right now my pools electrical is a 20 amp double pole breaker with what I assume to be 12 gauge wire, there are two hots and neutral and a ground. My current pool equipment that runs off this electric is a hayward 1hp super pump, a receptacle and my pool light. There was a gas heater on this same breaker but it is no longer functional.

Would my current electrical setup be able to power my new equipment including my pool light and outlet or should I do some upgrading there as well? I can always fish some extra wires through the conduit that goes back into my basement.

What is standard electrical for a new pool setup these days?

I’m in NJ by the way.
 
Why are you mixing a Pentair VS pump with the Hayward Omni and SWG instead of getting a Hayward TriStar VS pump?

You may be able to support the VS pump the SWG and the OmniHub on a 20 amp breaker and be at the edge of its maximum load.

An accessory outlet will need it's own 15A or 2A circuit.

Pool lights depend on what model lights and how many.

Standard electrical for a new pool is installing automation that includes a Load Center in the cabinet such as the Hayward OmniPL or OmniLogic. Run one 60 amp 6 gauage feed to the Load Center and then indiviual breakers in the Load Center for the various devices.
 
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My pool light is a single round pool light in the deep end. Most likely a Hayward.

If I was going with my current setup how can I upgrade it? I assume change the 20 amp double pole to a 30 amp and use 10 gauge wire and add a second 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge wire for the receptacle and pool light?
 
JThein said:
I assume change the 20 amp double pole to a 30 amp and use 10 gauge wire and add a second 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge wire for the receptacle and pool light?
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Pump and light needs a GFCI so the pump needs a GFCI CB and the receptacle needs to be GFCI and the light wired to the LOAD side of the GFCI receptacle.

One of the problems in stringing multiple devices on GFCI circuits is when you get a GFCI trip how do you isolate which device caused the trip?

What you describe will work.
 
ajw22 said:
Pump and light needs a GFCI so the pump needs a GFCI CB and the receptacle needs to be GFCI and the light wired to the LOAD side of the GFCI receptacle.

One of the problems in stringing multiple devices on GFCI circuits is when you get a GFCI trip how do you isolate which device caused the trip?

What you describe will work.
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I appreciate the advice. You really know your stuff. I am trying to make the best of the situation I am in. I have a 1/2” Id conduit ran through my finished basement with my pool electrical. It looks like I would still be in code if I ran three 10 gauge and three 12 gauge wires through the conduit. Therefore I am limited to the 12 gauge wires for the light and the receptacle.

I have a pentair vs pump and the guy at Inyo said the Hayward salt cells are superior. What would be my best automation option with the two brand differences?
 
JThein said:
I have a pentair vs pump and the guy at Inyo said the Hayward salt cells are superior. What would be my best automation option with the two brand differences?
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I would get the pump, SWG, and automation panel from the same vendor.

Pentair or Hayward are equally good.

I think the Hayward Aquarite has many problems with board failures and components burning up.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The Pentair IntelliChlor is a much more robust SWG system.

You can consider a Hayward Tristar VS pump with an Aquarite SWG system and an Omnihub.

-or-

A Pentair IntelliFlo VS pump with an IntelliChlor SWG and an IntelliConnect control system.

Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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For your proposed set up a 30a 120/240v service will be more than enough.
Are you sure the pump you want to purchase is 1.75hp? I'm thinking its the Pentair 1.5hp VS. (Draws less than 10a at 240v)
There are many ways to achieve automation for a VS pump but the simplest way it to keep the equipment manufacturers the same.
All your equipment needs to be powered by GFCI.
I always recommend a licensed electrician familiar with pools to do electrical work.
 
Hi everyone. In the middle of a pool renovation and am looking for recommendations on a pool sub panel. I was looking at the Pentair IntelliTouch Load Center Sub Panel 521213 but at still unsure. Will this panel be able to run my pool as is or will I need to buy other pieces.

I have a Pentair 1.5hp vs pump and Hayward salt cell. Also have one pool light in the deep end. Nothing crazy.

My other thought is to run an INTERMATIC panel out but it seems that I would be limited to expand that type of panel.

I know I don’t have much but I want to bring out enough power for other additions, maybe yard lighting and bug co tell. I am going to be running 60 amps out.
 
Are you looking for an automation panel to control your pool equipment that includes a Load Center or just an Electrical Load Center subpanel?

If you want an automation panel with a load center then consider the modern Pentair IntelliCenter and not the 20 year old IntelliTocuh.
 
J,

P/N 521213, is just the Load Center with an IntelliChlor transformer. It is just a box that houses all your circuit breakers. It comes with 5 relays, but none of the electronics needed to make an automation work.

Here is a good reference site.. Pentair IntelliTouch Load Center w/ Built-in IntelliChlor Transformer

I agree with Allen.. If I were buying a new Automation system today, it would be the new IntelliCenter.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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